tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71473934860146312942024-03-13T08:12:05.012-07:00Rome the Second TimeDianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.comBlogger907125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-86570506313231784792024-03-01T13:55:00.000-08:002024-03-01T13:55:33.481-08:00The Hunt for Paolo Portoghese's 1960 Modernist Capolavoro: Now the Jordanian Embassy in Rome (and going to the dogs)<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2AekMf9qqXgC6OY3OZtZmcTM3WcpWpAsoVlIuPbuYxqg_jUsaIR0AOZ34uVPBJvbIU8On3DQDu_GxqEPikClJspQbdw1Vhr6vuScGUK8Oa5dJsqI8uUpRUUlltP7gmAvSJ5azGFeaP05mcPlp_lNvFtbOoXcRPlz_So0lET13Lf2-Z-lD5mHDE-_-c5qq/s5472/portoghese%20view%20balcnies.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2AekMf9qqXgC6OY3OZtZmcTM3WcpWpAsoVlIuPbuYxqg_jUsaIR0AOZ34uVPBJvbIU8On3DQDu_GxqEPikClJspQbdw1Vhr6vuScGUK8Oa5dJsqI8uUpRUUlltP7gmAvSJ5azGFeaP05mcPlp_lNvFtbOoXcRPlz_So0lET13Lf2-Z-lD5mHDE-_-c5qq/w640-h426/portoghese%20view%20balcnies.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>This gorgeous and unusual building is one of the <i>capolavori</i> (masterworks) of renowned Italian starchitect Paolo Portoghese.</p><div style="text-align: left;">We went in search of it last year after Bill had read an article in <i>La Repubblica</i> in which Portoghese had, as the paper put it, given his <i>"J'accuse"</i> to the degradation of modern architecture, an architecture of which he was a leading proponent. As the famed architect put it<span style="font-family: inherit;">,<i> "</i><span style="background-color: white;"><i>L'architettura moderna lasciata in balia di vandali e degrado" </i>- "Modern architecture has been left to the mercy of vandals and decay." His prime example was his own work, now the Jordanian Embassy in Rome.</span></span></div><p>The article ran on April 26 and Bill had us out 4 days later in the Piazza Bologna/Nomentana area searching for the building, about which we knew little, not even the address nor what it looked like. After a few false starts (taking photos of buildings with barely a modern touch, thinking they might be the one), we discovered this magnificent structure tucked into an ordinary neighborhood, not too far from one of <i>Rome the Second Time's</i> 15 itineraries in our 2009 book. (Too bad we missed it then!)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZymq_NZgaz9LdTWyxyff0nYZEZ8Uu_r8e4oiegYOPkuKMVzmuYpQ-dw27_Xm6k4b9svMwIEO5Xu3j98UwJT8t69gACzcEb7_cmyQ7T70U642N8DIZXgBmTvc3h7KinR9QDEkh1UwZyE3npR-mIJHYjIS5elKPQCVbvFTLKmmvX1tmZX5I-Mey-HdoFK_i/s5472/portoghese%20from%20street.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZymq_NZgaz9LdTWyxyff0nYZEZ8Uu_r8e4oiegYOPkuKMVzmuYpQ-dw27_Xm6k4b9svMwIEO5Xu3j98UwJT8t69gACzcEb7_cmyQ7T70U642N8DIZXgBmTvc3h7KinR9QDEkh1UwZyE3npR-mIJHYjIS5elKPQCVbvFTLKmmvX1tmZX5I-Mey-HdoFK_i/w640-h426/portoghese%20from%20street.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Tucked into a street of ordinary palazzi</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>We also missed<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paolo_Portoghesi" target="_blank"> Portoghese's passing </a>only one month later, on May 30, 2023, at age 91. So consider this post an homage to him, whose buildings we've admired, among them the famous <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/06/europes-largest-mosque-in-rome.html" target="_blank">Rome mosque</a>, which we wrote about 15 years ago, in the first year of this blog.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi032jgZBxjD5ACkLC9MaK8kMSn_Dkl7ekQAAA9lEr1_u2HoNA3Nk1Vpj7wK-_TYLgMkxbJmYlZW0TPq_teab8j5Gl1oQfkS-DH_Rr6yuZxHtKfaaDKoATSd8_-NHrzocE0XwRCE54GYXGIOqKXlp334Thqx5h7Sd4NAlN1svEmxho8Vt9XwVPU2xERMvaL/s5472/portoghese%20above%20walls.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi032jgZBxjD5ACkLC9MaK8kMSn_Dkl7ekQAAA9lEr1_u2HoNA3Nk1Vpj7wK-_TYLgMkxbJmYlZW0TPq_teab8j5Gl1oQfkS-DH_Rr6yuZxHtKfaaDKoATSd8_-NHrzocE0XwRCE54GYXGIOqKXlp334Thqx5h7Sd4NAlN1svEmxho8Vt9XwVPU2xERMvaL/s320/portoghese%20above%20walls.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>For security purposes, understandably, <br />the embassy doesn't let one get close to<br />the building.</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQZHp2_VC3Rrm3bXeSnJKX0H3b_mAE2igysPjHgFAudFM3ksxhiIAFOE3tGD3qcbt2UViwKu1Hqlf_6cowbfZipWaSvt8WK5YiVDIGv1zqxXWd6ttFtz6D4KnRc2BU-Ggi3KQp_gqerDJe0cj0hJUMo1LqlKwxiWPht3Xu00doC89-zeM9LBSgFLPEmke/s4026/portoghese%20glimpse%20balconies.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4026" data-original-width="3542" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQZHp2_VC3Rrm3bXeSnJKX0H3b_mAE2igysPjHgFAudFM3ksxhiIAFOE3tGD3qcbt2UViwKu1Hqlf_6cowbfZipWaSvt8WK5YiVDIGv1zqxXWd6ttFtz6D4KnRc2BU-Ggi3KQp_gqerDJe0cj0hJUMo1LqlKwxiWPht3Xu00doC89-zeM9LBSgFLPEmke/s320/portoghese%20glimpse%20balconies.JPG" width="282" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This gives you some sense of the difficulty <br />in seeing the whole building.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span><br /></span><p></p><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The palazzo - we now know - was built for a contractor's grandson in 1960, named Casa Papanice, and eventually passed into the hands of the Jordanian Embassy in Rome (whose shields you can see on the building exterior), which has kept it closed to the public, even walled off to the public, and, as Portoghese lamented, in a state of disrepair.<br /></p><p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFb8z3rB240PC5K60fA2ZBf0vvJ3ycCJSknfNcUQKbEbtkkd_JNdbyMyigjVwLFqXwH_mHILxnQzKZ1odR4D23Jo9Z2Qup4OiSmGkbB7Ntwl5Toru9rRKedzvg8vLC9WdeOpnksuhJwC8gC9R3wmH7U3Tk0-ioqj4hABrKsxM7GqWzCQCs-kHhN0QOsMp/s5472/portoghese%20glimpse%20walls.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFb8z3rB240PC5K60fA2ZBf0vvJ3ycCJSknfNcUQKbEbtkkd_JNdbyMyigjVwLFqXwH_mHILxnQzKZ1odR4D23Jo9Z2Qup4OiSmGkbB7Ntwl5Toru9rRKedzvg8vLC9WdeOpnksuhJwC8gC9R3wmH7U3Tk0-ioqj4hABrKsxM7GqWzCQCs-kHhN0QOsMp/s320/portoghese%20glimpse%20walls.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Another glimpse - but you have to<br />know to look.</span></i><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4w0yowIqbvcHiMPd0ViUz8e9HGHZI8neqpPWMEfVhArdXISuRLzfNBeer8mJUzwqnCu8D2s6UC2nRrX1UNY58h-rKsB0hYW8TD1XUgnyeLpMM6VUSqb782JmeZCy4KRlBWeM3VOFOWr4VPC2OOgyEW697qjh0KFj3FEzcOLD3RS5RRnMXAx7lCKXJcjS/s5472/portoghese%20rust.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4w0yowIqbvcHiMPd0ViUz8e9HGHZI8neqpPWMEfVhArdXISuRLzfNBeer8mJUzwqnCu8D2s6UC2nRrX1UNY58h-rKsB0hYW8TD1XUgnyeLpMM6VUSqb782JmeZCy4KRlBWeM3VOFOWr4VPC2OOgyEW697qjh0KFj3FEzcOLD3RS5RRnMXAx7lCKXJcjS/s320/portoghese%20rust.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rusting walls</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The use of rounded, cantilevered, balconies against vertical striped and molded walls is highly distinctive, and the colored tiles playful. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibThf_btack5YAtZlXuI2CPFe1WiFHHQftqWBZIj_3nOrNcu1du1_SoglGT6aP6wNX_ZrZZKUK9RkP3HppHUqhBcTSeUAlSM_LN4Bo6K6Yh9nhB5tcQce3HiFlcVHPhyphenhyphenRNZyOvrtZZoSy0S2QMHTTTd6M89ouYglpqapSY7TRGIr6vHfwzAROvO7Yn8A4U/s5472/portoghese%20walls.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibThf_btack5YAtZlXuI2CPFe1WiFHHQftqWBZIj_3nOrNcu1du1_SoglGT6aP6wNX_ZrZZKUK9RkP3HppHUqhBcTSeUAlSM_LN4Bo6K6Yh9nhB5tcQce3HiFlcVHPhyphenhyphenRNZyOvrtZZoSy0S2QMHTTTd6M89ouYglpqapSY7TRGIr6vHfwzAROvO7Yn8A4U/w400-h266/portoghese%20walls.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Speaking of playful, we also didn't realize the palazzo (before the Jordanians) was featured in several films, including the unfortunately named 1970 "Pizza Triangle" (better in Italian - <i>Dramma della gelosia</i> or the alternative title, <i>Jealousy, Italian Style</i>) by Ettore Scola and starring Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, and Giancarlo Giannini. A still from the film accompanied the 2023 <i>La Repubblica</i> article.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxHRlVP9ZN5UoVtVk7Jt9PQG6SY0DILD9oRg7tlCA69RycUtRpI592kflOYqD_-ho2GFfbo-CZHbzf1jqQVuB94EkCucmvs1-Vo911F6vR7g-u1xz27R5qKVF6MPd2dj7d6HHJkwYh6Ku6AjH2RgEWgKgLXzM-hI93RdYaIfl4xuLbDyDpluAAt6Y4Eb0/s768/casapapanice-2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="768" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxHRlVP9ZN5UoVtVk7Jt9PQG6SY0DILD9oRg7tlCA69RycUtRpI592kflOYqD_-ho2GFfbo-CZHbzf1jqQVuB94EkCucmvs1-Vo911F6vR7g-u1xz27R5qKVF6MPd2dj7d6HHJkwYh6Ku6AjH2RgEWgKgLXzM-hI93RdYaIfl4xuLbDyDpluAAt6Y4Eb0/s320/casapapanice-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMkVvk53Lw4VvaBIIjHxQBkEgVQolNSmXRR5y1m1mj1jiKtrJYyAkg3DG_YrF0fS5WEFWYeA8WSIWx4XCvyUVe8-7DZSJF7ueETEoOZqxgWYb7amNgvwWP-ByAhlHXmtbB4enx7yyvP1fnj7vb_COyajkWlKygCCoJ96_TZBU5sUVsNAx7cujkbGsMOKv/s3657/portoghese%20cafe.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3657" data-original-width="3527" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMkVvk53Lw4VvaBIIjHxQBkEgVQolNSmXRR5y1m1mj1jiKtrJYyAkg3DG_YrF0fS5WEFWYeA8WSIWx4XCvyUVe8-7DZSJF7ueETEoOZqxgWYb7amNgvwWP-ByAhlHXmtbB4enx7yyvP1fnj7vb_COyajkWlKygCCoJ96_TZBU5sUVsNAx7cujkbGsMOKv/s320/portoghese%20cafe.JPG" width="309" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p>And, as usual, we found a spot for coffee nearby - at the very friendly "Chill Out Cafe" on viale XXI Aprile, Just steps from via Nomentana.</p><p>As long as you are on viale XXI Aprile, walk a few steps and across the street to the immense Fascist-era housing block Palazzo Federici (by Mario De Renzi, 1931-37), where director Scola filmed one of his own masterworks, 1977's <i><u>Una giornata particolare,</u></i>with Mastroianni and Sophia Loren, set completely in that apartment block on the day in 1938 when Hitler visited Rome. (Film still below.)</p>Dianne<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Y113ySKClUTEuDwvDs30IjV59k5AQprf9G7FdP9W7-SjHV0LgGEG4CXJWKrDJs-3szhyphenhyphenNcTA_IoTBqxuwI6TwCWdUDo7XQn5y4fbcePqAapwSeSdgrAARPR_rNiTQW251rZ2G2dkNlq2dllFsGuWHLYfKtgJDrick3WuldHt1D1jM3YVTFntwCrWErQJ/s800/Palazzo%20Federici.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="800" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Y113ySKClUTEuDwvDs30IjV59k5AQprf9G7FdP9W7-SjHV0LgGEG4CXJWKrDJs-3szhyphenhyphenNcTA_IoTBqxuwI6TwCWdUDo7XQn5y4fbcePqAapwSeSdgrAARPR_rNiTQW251rZ2G2dkNlq2dllFsGuWHLYfKtgJDrick3WuldHt1D1jM3YVTFntwCrWErQJ/w400-h296/Palazzo%20Federici.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><p><br /></p></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-38085079411368499342024-02-13T07:39:00.000-08:002024-02-13T07:39:01.343-08:00The Vehicles of Rome <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXT4Eirc522Uz43P3b3w2x5X3iVMufv5EMxJ0pouzFO8iUb83nxn60GAkQ82J6puDKOEmAiynlv58-7QQlz8MWRo_H6H42m2iVdPhF89TTim7iGpbLRzmY01pzgV0odushz-509EP2IO1mlRPDv5ze0YkJJ16WAl8NU_sEn9apKuvayPU5hsPMjNyqkhd/s5472/DSC09843.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXT4Eirc522Uz43P3b3w2x5X3iVMufv5EMxJ0pouzFO8iUb83nxn60GAkQ82J6puDKOEmAiynlv58-7QQlz8MWRo_H6H42m2iVdPhF89TTim7iGpbLRzmY01pzgV0odushz-509EP2IO1mlRPDv5ze0YkJJ16WAl8NU_sEn9apKuvayPU5hsPMjNyqkhd/w640-h426/DSC09843.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Thelma Senza Luise" Combination of a car and a scooter. By LAC 68, Nomentana station. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>While scurrying from one Rome "destination" to another, it's easy to miss the cool stuff that's all around you: the beautifully designed manhole covers, a wall of graffiti that celebrates a neighborhood's politics and local hero, the tiny dogs that Romans favor, the woman who's feeding cats, trees trimmed so thoroughly you're sure they'll never grow back, one unbelievable mound of garbage after another. </div><div><br /></div><div>And the vehicles. Romans--and the tourists they sometimes revile--get around the Eternal City in a variety of (for the observer, anyway) entertaining ways. Here are a few we've seen over the years:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kMDji2Q2fGrjqwI8AlW6Bqx9ljS16Hxr5g2q0ai8Yzco_l4Lv2scX-C5mTry6ATzc9DgBcv-lpBjnAaoldm6R3dAsI9Wda8XkLES5nmrs9wlyhK-_xiJT3-9-BKK5olkG52TNZnTMShie6gMfqXUzMHquju6586Ks2468PiaM5mMdnOEYaZ0YIXngurj/s5472/DSC09094.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kMDji2Q2fGrjqwI8AlW6Bqx9ljS16Hxr5g2q0ai8Yzco_l4Lv2scX-C5mTry6ATzc9DgBcv-lpBjnAaoldm6R3dAsI9Wda8XkLES5nmrs9wlyhK-_xiJT3-9-BKK5olkG52TNZnTMShie6gMfqXUzMHquju6586Ks2468PiaM5mMdnOEYaZ0YIXngurj/w640-h426/DSC09094.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very long delivery bicycle, 2016<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopkQuJ-ZYOgi_0TaqzHxO08IpN9TwlLY11PUtK66B932m5LbuyoV8cwteNmV8gjper18BfJ45ZzkGRe4ORnOduCp3fS_kBCviUI296oaidrzsXuzG5__WDH7dK-M0hXW6xkiA5BMbs4gcunNndn8EsuAQwQ8XvHyADE_zntSDhaFx1tXgd_LjacVHCiCk/s3072/IMG_1001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopkQuJ-ZYOgi_0TaqzHxO08IpN9TwlLY11PUtK66B932m5LbuyoV8cwteNmV8gjper18BfJ45ZzkGRe4ORnOduCp3fS_kBCviUI296oaidrzsXuzG5__WDH7dK-M0hXW6xkiA5BMbs4gcunNndn8EsuAQwQ8XvHyADE_zntSDhaFx1tXgd_LjacVHCiCk/w640-h480/IMG_1001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now there's a load. 2013</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8RW6nem_xJcIEuA38VQ1AA1q1QC0AHgkPhuQ4-oFWFKAqzFHutnY5awwgAJak1YIHwssRdykh7FO0qnlvLgmJQaLR2GNrnC3cPKJtzOTkx56_puOmPqXRek7_Dk4qtgLQELVLH_J61dnRLDNOMJmtpwBLg9jh3_8fsVBjCaHXWidsiMfARbYKwfFDdZZV/s5472/DSC00375.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8RW6nem_xJcIEuA38VQ1AA1q1QC0AHgkPhuQ4-oFWFKAqzFHutnY5awwgAJak1YIHwssRdykh7FO0qnlvLgmJQaLR2GNrnC3cPKJtzOTkx56_puOmPqXRek7_Dk4qtgLQELVLH_J61dnRLDNOMJmtpwBLg9jh3_8fsVBjCaHXWidsiMfARbYKwfFDdZZV/w426-h640/DSC00375.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For transporting children. Via del Corso. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSsuyRcwk_0aAzA204tArhC3FmPWQNEvoIeqJ5owGIqOTC9vNQk62wzifgYakwDIwDC8FcinNn5Mveu0qFepeBX4VAsFo3_mmLrVeZ-yagvo03UOA3luQy6bZTd4yI5FeIMswm-kFlqMx9E1vd1Kd46WMjVWnKZATOtp4_lK3LjTKqJBjbd0FDh_uETEE/s5472/DSC09563.2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSsuyRcwk_0aAzA204tArhC3FmPWQNEvoIeqJ5owGIqOTC9vNQk62wzifgYakwDIwDC8FcinNn5Mveu0qFepeBX4VAsFo3_mmLrVeZ-yagvo03UOA3luQy6bZTd4yI5FeIMswm-kFlqMx9E1vd1Kd46WMjVWnKZATOtp4_lK3LjTKqJBjbd0FDh_uETEE/w640-h426/DSC09563.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For transporting tired dogs</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTRkfAr0GgS2wZbfm5J506QRjwwBwd2qPu9fQfK06RQCCiLAGxbNEsUNDLmj9uru-gsfkcBYiclYOabcJKt6SpYW8ZEKqJjHrKY_sGqDT3YUCKG5r-PrDYhBb22k1vTjYjnRVWJIicoLUEGZUnVE2gGTeAZLIGwBQ5hv9_9V3acPq5eCZUyeBgDJy77HFJ/s5472/DSC09480.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTRkfAr0GgS2wZbfm5J506QRjwwBwd2qPu9fQfK06RQCCiLAGxbNEsUNDLmj9uru-gsfkcBYiclYOabcJKt6SpYW8ZEKqJjHrKY_sGqDT3YUCKG5r-PrDYhBb22k1vTjYjnRVWJIicoLUEGZUnVE2gGTeAZLIGwBQ5hv9_9V3acPq5eCZUyeBgDJy77HFJ/w426-h640/DSC09480.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This guy's delivering for Frutteria Aloise. The vehicle is a weird one--a scooter of sorts<br />with a wide platform, small wheels, and no seat (and no helmet required). 2017.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>And here's a delivery guy taking his bicycle up from the Metro.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgeTySW7RAtP3tyunEBJ2oK5qKEnoay0OTRW4jJfCG8k3Q7URa68zSwH7YkPOu6F1A52AQk5oKOb7_GboaOJ7pT5JLh5Hz1TThxvI9XROZm20Av3csxpmXol3JriEwCq5d4yu7W338y2fBU8VDMYnUVvsCu-jkNGq22lWu5Aqu5Um3HoDcc3MqT3AjqOsD/s5472/DSC04167.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgeTySW7RAtP3tyunEBJ2oK5qKEnoay0OTRW4jJfCG8k3Q7URa68zSwH7YkPOu6F1A52AQk5oKOb7_GboaOJ7pT5JLh5Hz1TThxvI9XROZm20Av3csxpmXol3JriEwCq5d4yu7W338y2fBU8VDMYnUVvsCu-jkNGq22lWu5Aqu5Um3HoDcc3MqT3AjqOsD/w426-h640/DSC04167.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEITqMm_a96KpVKqrqYW0Qogiyluzf1_CQhdZtpng_qE_IiXrBzVCwcujv0DBy1jUFk09ZoJOl4TLsrTSnOdcXeTMGyuebbdeva4-0em-bqb9yUtA10XjplZzdAp-H4O319o4i1HE4YCB1v7i_Lqb4l6G9BTQLUP0sxwTWGTZPhuLhKrY0B-Xk3KCm_rcA/s5472/DSC03070.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEITqMm_a96KpVKqrqYW0Qogiyluzf1_CQhdZtpng_qE_IiXrBzVCwcujv0DBy1jUFk09ZoJOl4TLsrTSnOdcXeTMGyuebbdeva4-0em-bqb9yUtA10XjplZzdAp-H4O319o4i1HE4YCB1v7i_Lqb4l6G9BTQLUP0sxwTWGTZPhuLhKrY0B-Xk3KCm_rcA/w640-h426/DSC03070.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks like a waiter transporting garbage, but I'm open to other interpretations. 2015</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4dfwloKn3F_zA9RWZdf4HaAQoidheuf0rVd_Jg0JWrehOAsrpWnVKVnG0XNHXYokCGtrmyDLq-wo2BVMu6bsv_Xbz4Zol2II-zfR3bE1FEdjRAREkSmRmo3sYEUwKvaLam6vPR7pNJKVLgwJio6EbCrzi7Az7pqYtZpE7luXK6zwl_gX4EtWZdXsiuXa3/s5472/DSC01964.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4dfwloKn3F_zA9RWZdf4HaAQoidheuf0rVd_Jg0JWrehOAsrpWnVKVnG0XNHXYokCGtrmyDLq-wo2BVMu6bsv_Xbz4Zol2II-zfR3bE1FEdjRAREkSmRmo3sYEUwKvaLam6vPR7pNJKVLgwJio6EbCrzi7Az7pqYtZpE7luXK6zwl_gX4EtWZdXsiuXa3/w640-h426/DSC01964.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sicily. Man delivering melons in a crate. Photos of Toto and (apparently) JFK. 2016. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div> Delivery, and delivery vehicles, are important enough that there are paintings of the them.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZS9-CLvNh6aJN7P6njf7-PeTNASmszrPbKa2U1xOZNO7rYidX3U23pA1-cnRWfJ9OXQx0ZV2sOc9CPKXOe6I9ttow64ceZtijRj4IKC_Q_pDtP7ytHk9AL_U2IXDYFGhhQJ6caPBU5rLbuGXqBAwTxUDyWzKND5gONyFV3138E7Ws6unFKwi5_6G-HCOo/s5472/DSC09364.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZS9-CLvNh6aJN7P6njf7-PeTNASmszrPbKa2U1xOZNO7rYidX3U23pA1-cnRWfJ9OXQx0ZV2sOc9CPKXOe6I9ttow64ceZtijRj4IKC_Q_pDtP7ytHk9AL_U2IXDYFGhhQJ6caPBU5rLbuGXqBAwTxUDyWzKND5gONyFV3138E7Ws6unFKwi5_6G-HCOo/w640-h426/DSC09364.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via Quatro Venti, 2016</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjlzMn5AtwZqUg8rYhrP5EV9el0QbBguJ9-AUDHUS08dH9GwMF_R169pMIOkQP80XzyK7sinEm1gu4O8-jhZQ18vWUOFbadaYauDvFoFhZZw1WTGsqDE7AWDfNTfH9LzXppd53SgKgpsR6rSKOohrOad3_koLfvCCROfMwENzMlQQccRgSQcnBfC88eB_d/s5472/DSC01056.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjlzMn5AtwZqUg8rYhrP5EV9el0QbBguJ9-AUDHUS08dH9GwMF_R169pMIOkQP80XzyK7sinEm1gu4O8-jhZQ18vWUOFbadaYauDvFoFhZZw1WTGsqDE7AWDfNTfH9LzXppd53SgKgpsR6rSKOohrOad3_koLfvCCROfMwENzMlQQccRgSQcnBfC88eB_d/w640-h426/DSC01056.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2016. Neo-futurism. Not in a gallery. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The mail has to be delivered, too, and in Rome it's usually by scooter, rather than truck. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdcdIA7JnMhFoKNKEhDEryqa7XF9WIgCHCbSWgFu15kuINTJOEd9L25_C_35QYZBJPIWyZDoLL4VgjMF3vOKcgqTGfcEClzJBzT_iD0im3HYFubnl5MUWs-ss5qcXkd1Myf76UUrDCYj5isAAhfz_ZnUOdDYr-C8KuZfIALpZhj_-4w0TeBb_f27qBXetj/s3072/IMG_1267.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdcdIA7JnMhFoKNKEhDEryqa7XF9WIgCHCbSWgFu15kuINTJOEd9L25_C_35QYZBJPIWyZDoLL4VgjMF3vOKcgqTGfcEClzJBzT_iD0im3HYFubnl5MUWs-ss5qcXkd1Myf76UUrDCYj5isAAhfz_ZnUOdDYr-C8KuZfIALpZhj_-4w0TeBb_f27qBXetj/w640-h480/IMG_1267.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman delivering the mail. San Paolo, Rome, 2016.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Rome is a dense city and many of the streets are narrow. So there are lots of small vehicles.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHSiG0GR8nt23wjeskwwtfDKb-ufdFgjFWgYUyHeLX2tShmHjMiEYl_qdGjdrnbpJcXKVs0EWHnnW830t2Ishf1KL8uGen4REgK83iHJP5e1Jq454wQU4e4AcFahRo-Yzgz7F1Wov4btkQY6ubdCCtLXQEud7g1wbRMgFokfCZcaQTxoCec76xhjqESIT/s5472/DSC06174.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHSiG0GR8nt23wjeskwwtfDKb-ufdFgjFWgYUyHeLX2tShmHjMiEYl_qdGjdrnbpJcXKVs0EWHnnW830t2Ishf1KL8uGen4REgK83iHJP5e1Jq454wQU4e4AcFahRo-Yzgz7F1Wov4btkQY6ubdCCtLXQEud7g1wbRMgFokfCZcaQTxoCec76xhjqESIT/w640-h426/DSC06174.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small yellow car. Dianne at right. 2016.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQXS_aJ1BN9O1dOpX3_XvWD7hWE-p4d-IJcVzzvGMmcEKtJg7WXi9TBEAYlkW04Ix5rHDSqvbg7Zs5Mdt9BoWPRq9BplPnNaKMe1pSNc8oUxqzyC7SBvQRu6yUw_ydAfZRkdEnNZm4O-8Bwq5L6_OgBomwFmfLJFZECyNGMUtcQas_hG41CvBCpp3xL_4L/s3072/IMG_4536.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQXS_aJ1BN9O1dOpX3_XvWD7hWE-p4d-IJcVzzvGMmcEKtJg7WXi9TBEAYlkW04Ix5rHDSqvbg7Zs5Mdt9BoWPRq9BplPnNaKMe1pSNc8oUxqzyC7SBvQRu6yUw_ydAfZRkdEnNZm4O-8Bwq5L6_OgBomwFmfLJFZECyNGMUtcQas_hG41CvBCpp3xL_4L/w640-h480/IMG_4536.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bill, wondering if it's safe to drive. 2010. Looks the door is made of canvas.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The Ape is a common delivery vehicle, especially in rural areas. 3 wheels.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP9AxoJouXoTn0Nbjh-PCXo-P9Mu9xHId1IfwHBOcuaOMJqbZN1AjFMAJTAnKNzyUQqt7f0xuFIqlotftIQoREAFp0cSwQgz7XMEU_1HzK9u6SUjWAZ_nGPNmxaggPrx1wGq8CvzpTlMdt4i8T7cxVPNIF9lYM6RIp_0JopCInccaYAgIW-BUcEOBn6nPu/s5472/DSC09701.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP9AxoJouXoTn0Nbjh-PCXo-P9Mu9xHId1IfwHBOcuaOMJqbZN1AjFMAJTAnKNzyUQqt7f0xuFIqlotftIQoREAFp0cSwQgz7XMEU_1HzK9u6SUjWAZ_nGPNmxaggPrx1wGq8CvzpTlMdt4i8T7cxVPNIF9lYM6RIp_0JopCInccaYAgIW-BUcEOBn6nPu/w640-h426/DSC09701.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2016</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZk7espcz8d0yc8fGQsgzcYykpo1hzyaX7lB1ptpQilbeLm_mrEfbMYPX9xi2igHLMeOWkTWfnayAIxkmWQtwjr-QD0Fz9VjkKTpcRX2mHRrS1UO1RFRqOyLOmx8wZKou8AOFfZgMwxdy8KbbAhXvMmibu4mBQ85K_ay-7312sfpQlHNbrZHMpthkgHQ-k/s5472/DSC01568.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZk7espcz8d0yc8fGQsgzcYykpo1hzyaX7lB1ptpQilbeLm_mrEfbMYPX9xi2igHLMeOWkTWfnayAIxkmWQtwjr-QD0Fz9VjkKTpcRX2mHRrS1UO1RFRqOyLOmx8wZKou8AOFfZgMwxdy8KbbAhXvMmibu4mBQ85K_ay-7312sfpQlHNbrZHMpthkgHQ-k/w640-h426/DSC01568.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big guy with small bike. 2016.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Unlike Los Angeles and other American cities, Rome has not yet been populated by food trucks. However, all kinds of items, from clothing to batteries, are sold out of cars and small trucks. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVHkXN5OLz936U6MDItgH2-wX4MSIHb97vdI7EIMaXGZfaHNGhPJeIB4T3oWlbFqyEDsMLGJ6YeTTqR_UW_3LoHKXnPJT_PA2T5Eo1xIVVNJzFtG0m-OvnS0z-ASs9-lKJ9ey4s_ZQ6Q7EWy6ehIhBUquMpyeEJF62vjXkztK-bn9NwkJq9jOZQlIevHP3/s5472/DSC04768.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVHkXN5OLz936U6MDItgH2-wX4MSIHb97vdI7EIMaXGZfaHNGhPJeIB4T3oWlbFqyEDsMLGJ6YeTTqR_UW_3LoHKXnPJT_PA2T5Eo1xIVVNJzFtG0m-OvnS0z-ASs9-lKJ9ey4s_ZQ6Q7EWy6ehIhBUquMpyeEJF62vjXkztK-bn9NwkJq9jOZQlIevHP3/w640-h426/DSC04768.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mondo Arancina. A 3-wheeler. The drawing on the side depicts an historic battle. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmf9N12AyzbEKKrai4LSL53mAr-g9Dk9nMvpjh8X6wu4WJwBtsmC7aZzo6VhYaJEOMOor85ziqnvaJLwcUWZN48ynp6Wl7aPJ6G_Q_Jj99RVkM37A99NrKZ4l98a1bCv5Qjfduj0kB8KqFjwLpCia5IaCYVRVLQDZxwcHro5-CHAJtHxdxJlM7G9_o_vd/s5472/DSC05981.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmf9N12AyzbEKKrai4LSL53mAr-g9Dk9nMvpjh8X6wu4WJwBtsmC7aZzo6VhYaJEOMOor85ziqnvaJLwcUWZN48ynp6Wl7aPJ6G_Q_Jj99RVkM37A99NrKZ4l98a1bCv5Qjfduj0kB8KqFjwLpCia5IaCYVRVLQDZxwcHro5-CHAJtHxdxJlM7G9_o_vd/w640-h426/DSC05981.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladies' garments. 2016. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjunEeeCckRnqGELuBTG322ybUsQcuv7ul4mRlHbB-iOclyNjj08kzxvND8qbphEP12zyyA3J7F2wzr_NrgghOBotXBe_RS7Ar6vWWUhzdgNurP_vtRDZcCMPtMS1uwcJxxKDicvzhkYuBqy-00Zt54HgYCjBe7teYwM-3T_vPmrdbrmjNkA57cKuXlyWqb/s5472/DSC09265.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjunEeeCckRnqGELuBTG322ybUsQcuv7ul4mRlHbB-iOclyNjj08kzxvND8qbphEP12zyyA3J7F2wzr_NrgghOBotXBe_RS7Ar6vWWUhzdgNurP_vtRDZcCMPtMS1uwcJxxKDicvzhkYuBqy-00Zt54HgYCjBe7teYwM-3T_vPmrdbrmjNkA57cKuXlyWqb/w640-h426/DSC09265.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small delivery boy, 2016. Life is hard.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLcZUal_UOR1BOGwXKG0rQEZbnJja5C4liXTXIhTM8hJe7H6DqsrT6CTvcc1AvTCTtgh5BOgZ51pIQ5HJsI-RkZ3Oa22uYhHeApbf3nZQhPKOjn4Ak_hn2d8YW1gFpEX_PKp5L_JySjBa_EOdD_aOuUx18FU3O6QeFKJ0LYjI4IazB0Ftg6i0N-A_rHhGB/s5472/DSC00691.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLcZUal_UOR1BOGwXKG0rQEZbnJja5C4liXTXIhTM8hJe7H6DqsrT6CTvcc1AvTCTtgh5BOgZ51pIQ5HJsI-RkZ3Oa22uYhHeApbf3nZQhPKOjn4Ak_hn2d8YW1gFpEX_PKp5L_JySjBa_EOdD_aOuUx18FU3O6QeFKJ0LYjI4IazB0Ftg6i0N-A_rHhGB/w640-h426/DSC00691.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common sight: Woman with grocery shopping cart. 2016.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Scooters and motorcycles are common in Rome, to say the least. There are about 1 million of them. Less common is a fallen scooter or motorcycle. This one is unusual, in that there's a note on it, written by a passer-by, that says who did it and gives the license number of the offending owner's vehicle. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwtWhFpyNGfrVTRqj7pfOTo8F32fOQviAK2AdgK4qsROcWLWzIhvu_hBwHrVWbsez7dCX6D5fplE-j0noJ-zvvampUZsY7BAH2QKMbbVH1noIgYvA_xq3dhlY_EhnlT0Vs9CJU4QSlkNawqWKoDCsD8NArN7GNwquUEeQ402ISKgtvc5937PYsXtUqCDfJ/s5472/DSC04816.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwtWhFpyNGfrVTRqj7pfOTo8F32fOQviAK2AdgK4qsROcWLWzIhvu_hBwHrVWbsez7dCX6D5fplE-j0noJ-zvvampUZsY7BAH2QKMbbVH1noIgYvA_xq3dhlY_EhnlT0Vs9CJU4QSlkNawqWKoDCsD8NArN7GNwquUEeQ402ISKgtvc5937PYsXtUqCDfJ/s320/DSC04816.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmUSAKK13HQI9v2dRvVW6myRavIlw2EBAceecLmoyZCOLH1l-7DwRvCnsTqkFOXtl8XVNYnfz31ZqoLe1kupDSWER9j3xfrT6qfuDiHgdBa1w-GVIW0M7im3ev3BxTPvvdzk4UugQobnAUe24H60FKfjZjKh0HB01wD3-ygDk_mBnXr8eUhwR8I1KQkdd/s5472/DSC04817.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmUSAKK13HQI9v2dRvVW6myRavIlw2EBAceecLmoyZCOLH1l-7DwRvCnsTqkFOXtl8XVNYnfz31ZqoLe1kupDSWER9j3xfrT6qfuDiHgdBa1w-GVIW0M7im3ev3BxTPvvdzk4UugQobnAUe24H60FKfjZjKh0HB01wD3-ygDk_mBnXr8eUhwR8I1KQkdd/w640-h426/DSC04817.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2018</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOoM912APF6MIuNoC5nnMiZOMcwD80UtmbVzdLavn7kgWpITR0Wv7_CcRHLe2SRXbRcOJ7Ka9vo_efo9cifmMaAN577kRdxTioNXKJ-GqcVOKxzVaazOkToZ5TKiADYcORdN7_Y2ggBW9puXSCcqqmHInxnvxjjFkDthe3dAJ0exRQtqApbBJcucaAqYz/s5472/DSC01555.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOoM912APF6MIuNoC5nnMiZOMcwD80UtmbVzdLavn7kgWpITR0Wv7_CcRHLe2SRXbRcOJ7Ka9vo_efo9cifmMaAN577kRdxTioNXKJ-GqcVOKxzVaazOkToZ5TKiADYcORdN7_Y2ggBW9puXSCcqqmHInxnvxjjFkDthe3dAJ0exRQtqApbBJcucaAqYz/w640-h426/DSC01555.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourists relaxing on their Segways, the Quirinale, 2016.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhu_gPyGJoLajux1GLT-epZ0kXodkEpKdUL3IK3vRFcOOQ88Ma5ZZkKWw8QcUW0DwTEcumGZlOY5k360ZopiBy7SEFZu0qz_8R6JP3SKjvUsz6SVf0ycpvMxYRG3PXt7lYLdisCGUjPXDODEmFT3x_Qfu4UzZ4YQFDJsUvknjFTkjm0rY0L8koMxRORHJ8/s5472/DSC00848.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhu_gPyGJoLajux1GLT-epZ0kXodkEpKdUL3IK3vRFcOOQ88Ma5ZZkKWw8QcUW0DwTEcumGZlOY5k360ZopiBy7SEFZu0qz_8R6JP3SKjvUsz6SVf0ycpvMxYRG3PXt7lYLdisCGUjPXDODEmFT3x_Qfu4UzZ4YQFDJsUvknjFTkjm0rY0L8koMxRORHJ8/w640-h426/DSC00848.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rental scooter. This one is a 3-wheeler (two in front). Safer, but not safe. <br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wDMAkw0NDk3V3rlbPFGbYmJaGARpoxPEoPMlT87e1yzPS7r0OdoBbFkZQEvPJ_0oavRpR-VykyTKk4D7XyFEQ-l2wn2i3DVhETBkHnQ9RSnwTYiUDFcMtBEOJ09nv_fivaM2W-e44QmI9ujV_RBYP4OAW3VY3ZBr1tPNn5a5Zp_XKFYmfQYYwZQKcN4h/s5472/DSC04661.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wDMAkw0NDk3V3rlbPFGbYmJaGARpoxPEoPMlT87e1yzPS7r0OdoBbFkZQEvPJ_0oavRpR-VykyTKk4D7XyFEQ-l2wn2i3DVhETBkHnQ9RSnwTYiUDFcMtBEOJ09nv_fivaM2W-e44QmI9ujV_RBYP4OAW3VY3ZBr1tPNn5a5Zp_XKFYmfQYYwZQKcN4h/w640-h426/DSC04661.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A scary sight: tourists on red rental scooters, crossing the Ponte Sublicio, 2018. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6rDbKNIO_jJPdoi0QPjQ1IljFTMj29zFjUOEUbZGhshbJnU6n4FHfscVWOArH2u5md0b9zwR11awhQqNnNMtUWUwOwn7KkRI6IO7g-j1dbmO4BsPJo9PHveKqTgcDK5HCUKmIEjCwXg6Nt3jeHXSp2jYyAHyvwXtlTpaDrH948YFXCPRYrSneFzbt1M3k/s1110/E-scooter%201.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="739" data-original-width="1110" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6rDbKNIO_jJPdoi0QPjQ1IljFTMj29zFjUOEUbZGhshbJnU6n4FHfscVWOArH2u5md0b9zwR11awhQqNnNMtUWUwOwn7KkRI6IO7g-j1dbmO4BsPJo9PHveKqTgcDK5HCUKmIEjCwXg6Nt3jeHXSp2jYyAHyvwXtlTpaDrH948YFXCPRYrSneFzbt1M3k/w640-h426/E-scooter%201.webp" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rome's latest transport scourge is the E-scooter. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxX5TW-MM2eRXFdHtyvA63rg-zzNQPgSHuUrKb9BrA3oXytGCRewlT10VNSnIzSHSgVtZL_OOaDAm_n36LGjFAmIY4wOolCsTy5wJ-m_cxWgKo57GG76dDurkQmZsOFB4uwtrf-LnQyTJcXDub6366WA-VR55MCbVyi-hFyUQ1nKwytVqMwr-0-e3Wo_tP/s4327/DSC09283.2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2251" data-original-width="4327" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxX5TW-MM2eRXFdHtyvA63rg-zzNQPgSHuUrKb9BrA3oXytGCRewlT10VNSnIzSHSgVtZL_OOaDAm_n36LGjFAmIY4wOolCsTy5wJ-m_cxWgKo57GG76dDurkQmZsOFB4uwtrf-LnQyTJcXDub6366WA-VR55MCbVyi-hFyUQ1nKwytVqMwr-0-e3Wo_tP/w640-h332/DSC09283.2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy with dog collecting iron with cart in Pigneto. You can't do that with an e-scooter.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhshRLHWxB5IaQmPqUX12x-CJ2lTUgiGv3q4ByzakcqE-Kzu-z-tdeBv1cPoybF3XRbUMgwtyLUoLNJ5mvq3KdHdnNL5cQNAz3uhCWtROWjDCUo5q7qTzHD9iWIqxnzMOKMqRP9suDg1Ch5bnDI4-WXcvj1Ixf8WZOTVt5XlFsIr5bBCJKNJ1iONSgdSYt2/s5472/DSC00417.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhshRLHWxB5IaQmPqUX12x-CJ2lTUgiGv3q4ByzakcqE-Kzu-z-tdeBv1cPoybF3XRbUMgwtyLUoLNJ5mvq3KdHdnNL5cQNAz3uhCWtROWjDCUo5q7qTzHD9iWIqxnzMOKMqRP9suDg1Ch5bnDI4-WXcvj1Ixf8WZOTVt5XlFsIr5bBCJKNJ1iONSgdSYt2/w426-h640/DSC00417.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delivery guy on E-scooter</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9QJuGTdGnTXbOROgrRk1W-EWWTKhIhNkYpL_kOJQOLLxwKSxpy_hMFdOccpNsXFg-JVl47jWoSD7wy_XqAEI41Q5xzvsrEdwRW3ypwy_yrqsG3qheTCoDxgBne8wmkF95nJfnchbKcolgMMaSewCeR9gEK6MQhfJ6JR85Ygq1AbenVORn0K7KcKtwpcr/s5472/DSC00678.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9QJuGTdGnTXbOROgrRk1W-EWWTKhIhNkYpL_kOJQOLLxwKSxpy_hMFdOccpNsXFg-JVl47jWoSD7wy_XqAEI41Q5xzvsrEdwRW3ypwy_yrqsG3qheTCoDxgBne8wmkF95nJfnchbKcolgMMaSewCeR9gEK6MQhfJ6JR85Ygq1AbenVORn0K7KcKtwpcr/w640-h426/DSC00678.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E-scooters. Helmets were not required; they may be now.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Bill</div><div>(and from Dianne - if you haven't had enough, try searching for "scooter" in RST, and you'll see more than 150 posts; trucks, more than 50 - for a start)</div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-30756684817981989542024-01-21T12:30:00.000-08:002024-01-21T12:30:27.397-08:0036 Hours around Campo de' Fiori <p><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This is the second of two posts that evolved from a friend's request for suggestions of what to do around Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori. As we noted in the <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2023/10/36-hours-around-piazza-navona.html" target="_blank">first post on Piazza Navona</a>, she was clear that she and her companion would be in Rome only 3 days, had seen the big sights and did not want to go back to those this time, and they did not want to do much walking. </span></p><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #333333;">We put our heads together, created a list and a map for her, and enjoyed the exercise enough that we made it into 2 blog posts. Here's the second, on the Campo - expanding into the ghetto proper (the </span><span style="color: #333333;">numbering</span><span style="color: #333333;"> starts with 19 - since the other numbers were used on Piazza Navona).</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismH5RzI1qnFO2ffOtpuM1UDYaCOip4N_QG9CG0Aps4FdRxQ6dPIxA6YiAm7WbbUEFCv-Mp4TevNq0DXWz78hM8cyloGwJKqH71i1QPWv8-UHJvHzSzOFp4BgSyl3D9GXxlJmRYVuzO6iMvMs5O41HZ8VS3InwQhoqKoDGHkUi6UWXSlV6XoFrMkU851dN/s4677/campo%20map.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2876" data-original-width="4677" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismH5RzI1qnFO2ffOtpuM1UDYaCOip4N_QG9CG0Aps4FdRxQ6dPIxA6YiAm7WbbUEFCv-Mp4TevNq0DXWz78hM8cyloGwJKqH71i1QPWv8-UHJvHzSzOFp4BgSyl3D9GXxlJmRYVuzO6iMvMs5O41HZ8VS3InwQhoqKoDGHkUi6UWXSlV6XoFrMkU851dN/w640-h394/campo%20map.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Note, Campo de’
Fiori and environs (the market – much more than flowers) is open only in
the morning, Monday through Saturday). </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbWEvgP_GUkH5B0P3L8O3VnGyCmuGAZvF65Ig7Osir7wTLgNXLJNs6tjcHPDnlA7WlusDhB9J5G0yXGRdoJnYhGTNweFbNQZ5P0NK7kX5XasWSUgyaY5fE7zW0n4GmI0GooYoXBpKnQQMZ5Ub-VWI3rnSbtYbZv-tRM15LZAwIkt1uZkohs2vcAAhiVrT/s5472/DSC04314.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbWEvgP_GUkH5B0P3L8O3VnGyCmuGAZvF65Ig7Osir7wTLgNXLJNs6tjcHPDnlA7WlusDhB9J5G0yXGRdoJnYhGTNweFbNQZ5P0NK7kX5XasWSUgyaY5fE7zW0n4GmI0GooYoXBpKnQQMZ5Ub-VWI3rnSbtYbZv-tRM15LZAwIkt1uZkohs2vcAAhiVrT/w640-h426/DSC04314.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Campo de' Fiori, in clean-up phase (2015) </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">19.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; mso-tab-count: 1;"> A s</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">tatue of Giordano Bruno, the revolutionary monk burned
at the stake in 1600, looms over </span>the<span style="font-family: inherit;"> market in</span><span style="font-family: inherit; mso-spacerun: yes;"> the </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">middle of Campo
de’ Fiori. We wrote about him here:</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"> </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/08/mixing-religion-and-politics-in-lively.html" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/08/mixing-religion-and-politics-in-lively.html</span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bruno's story is the door to many facets of Italian history, politics, and religion, which may be one reason our post has a lengthy and interesting comment by a reader (with the handle "Believer"). Just after we published the post in 2009, Ingrid Rowland's fascinating book on Bruno came out. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/chicago/G/bo8167222.html">https://press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/chicago/G/bo8167222.html</a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">20.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> W</span>ine bar L’Angolo Divino enoteca vineria, just a few steps off the Campo, has some food, and is considered one of the better wine bars (all our Roman friends
like it). Web site in Italian: <a href="https://www.angolodivino.it/" target="_blank">https://www.angolodivino.it/<o:p></o:p></a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">21.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Caffè Peru is a nice (not so fancy) wine bar, known for its great 10 euro aperitivo (lots to eat): </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2015/07/caffe-peru-time-for-aperitivo.html"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2015/07/caffe-peru-time-for-aperitivo.html</span></a><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>- via di Monserrato. The photo is from 2016.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8vH83X1J_J07tKiaGegbg_fvyRP4Wxm4reiXEeoIZx9wYG8eoPp3_R6qB_E2PvBQb9Bm0KpJtyDYc9Z3F_Fu-ETese41TkU3zVhkuXcCB2Cjoxcwe3QqpiGwha7EQ12tD5QglKCUTJfkLWVhyphenhyphenHDUu8iCojAB-a-O2im3AoNS8Jy25joAWj2hPErV4vDdh/s5472/DSC04330.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8vH83X1J_J07tKiaGegbg_fvyRP4Wxm4reiXEeoIZx9wYG8eoPp3_R6qB_E2PvBQb9Bm0KpJtyDYc9Z3F_Fu-ETese41TkU3zVhkuXcCB2Cjoxcwe3QqpiGwha7EQ12tD5QglKCUTJfkLWVhyphenhyphenHDUu8iCojAB-a-O2im3AoNS8Jy25joAWj2hPErV4vDdh/w640-h426/DSC04330.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">22.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Palazzo Farnese was designed – or
re-designed - by Michelangelo. You can’t go in; it's the well-guarded French Embassy, unless you can find a tour - which we did once. Still, it's definitely worth looking at. This is a lovely piazza (if there aren't too many security vehicles parked all around), with classic use of ancient Roman bathtubs as fountains, and the dramatic, enormous Michelangelo overhanging eaves on the palazzo. Have a drink in the bar that takes in the whole piazza, and enjoy the Renaissance cityscape. (And ask someone about the connection to the Farnesina across the Tevere.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">23. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Hungarian Academy on via Giulia – </span><a href="https://culture.hu/it/roma"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://culture.hu/it/roma</span></a><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> - is </span>usually open 9-5 every weekday. It's one of the best of the foreign cultural academies, often with free, excellent art exhibits. Plus the academy occupies a Francesco Borromini structure built for the Falconieri family.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">24.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Galleria
Spada is a wonderful gallery that has another piece of Borrominiana - his “perspective” corridor. Open for tours (in English and French) daily except Tuesdays. <a href="https://galleriaspada.cultura.gov.it/en/tickets-and-info-2/">https://galleriaspada.cultura.gov.it/en/tickets-and-info-2/</a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">25. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Il Goccetto (trans. "the little drop") is our favorite wine bar – via dei Banchi Vecchi.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg23_sbtiVZPjUzEJw5NtiMgx0B3h-CiZ-UWlrYNkXS0-mHUDiovIHZY4Xu73Z7SisitVLBOmO_cooz2n2uuc0d84QIsiApDf5fKh_v5RyfgB0uOfbpJVEfQUylDBfZloMcZrY8OtmkNZKxTYiQlbEK9fIpjfZUmlBdfVN74OZD198ndLZ-d2D85DhGkfHo/s5472/DSC01566.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg23_sbtiVZPjUzEJw5NtiMgx0B3h-CiZ-UWlrYNkXS0-mHUDiovIHZY4Xu73Z7SisitVLBOmO_cooz2n2uuc0d84QIsiApDf5fKh_v5RyfgB0uOfbpJVEfQUylDBfZloMcZrY8OtmkNZKxTYiQlbEK9fIpjfZUmlBdfVN74OZD198ndLZ-d2D85DhGkfHo/w640-h426/DSC01566.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Il Goccetto. The clientele, as usual, spilling onto the sidewalk and street. Inside, a chalkboard lists all the wines available by the glass. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">26.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Turtle fountain - </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/02/on-location-improving-on-turtle.html"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/02/on-location-improving-on-turtle.html</span></a><span style="line-height: 107%;"> - Piazza Mattei. The turtles are by Gian Lorenzo Bernini - so you can get your fix of the Borromini/Bernini feud by hanging around this area. And, <a href="https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/turtle-fountain" target="_blank">here's a romantic fable</a> to add to the atmosphere (as if it needed anything). </span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">27. <span> </span>Ghetto: The heart of it is this street, via di Portico d’Ottavia –<a href="https://katieparla.com/city-guides/rome/" target="_blank"> look to Katie Parla for eating idea</a>s – we’ve often gone to <a href="https://www.giggetto.it/" target="_blank">Giggetto</a> at the end – because of ties to a
friend of ours who lived upstairs. It bills itself as the server of the true Jewish artichoke (perhaps Dianne's favorite food of all time) since 1923.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Incredible (and disturbing) free show in a
tower right across from Giggetto - on concentration camps with Italian connections. This is <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187791-d13166597-Reviews-Fondazione_Museo_della_Shoah-Rome_Lazio.html" target="_blank">the Museum of the Shoah</a>, open Sunday through Friday, with shorter hours on Friday. The Synagogue is across the street and has tours – we’ve
never been on one, but have been in the <a href="https://museoebraico.roma.it/en/information/" target="_blank">basement museum</a> (hours change quite frequently with the seasons; basically open Sunday through Friday, with shorter hours on Friday) which is quite
informative (we went for the first time last year). </span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Below, one of the documents on display in the Synagogue museum, commemorating the establishment by the United Nations of the state of Israel. </span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs-elQLZtpQn_2C5_E_qawQPvGPp7RaV0KSqMMSc_IgHKkxew1rwukfvHsALXqbpc3pwQSIuWYaEIy_ItGVLeoczmtXaTJCa-PV5hSvRi6XY4TcITsiTtd2RWhApcR5m1rZ-tGXlrqWtzpGKk_f43PaKFp4pzdWeBKkBwD8f3JjaoWHrDqYN5o2Fy8PoVp/s5472/DSC04666.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs-elQLZtpQn_2C5_E_qawQPvGPp7RaV0KSqMMSc_IgHKkxew1rwukfvHsALXqbpc3pwQSIuWYaEIy_ItGVLeoczmtXaTJCa-PV5hSvRi6XY4TcITsiTtd2RWhApcR5m1rZ-tGXlrqWtzpGKk_f43PaKFp4pzdWeBKkBwD8f3JjaoWHrDqYN5o2Fy8PoVp/w640-h426/DSC04666.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Good ruins at the end of the street – you’re almost at Campidoglio and you are at Teatro Marcello.</span></div><div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMqviZgtHnkviQdgrefwydR7f2uF01lvRL6h9fm2jhMrw3-zfWaNJY_ySXJl_yNECO6HziVrpZOFodBrqpNtGtci0kGkOxtf1iDQp-UoZPP0ID1nlt0WAMP3WaDheKNmLp2xULKQsnSot6meStHYbrrKYX8a-6puBcT-QULD26wo-jPS5FsYxJ80HoES04/s3072/IMG_4153.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">27A. <span> </span>Pasticceria
Boccione is open only in mornings – get there to get a piece of “Jewish
pizza” – kind of like fruitcake - </span><a href="https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/passticeria-boccione" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/passticeria-boccione</span></a></p></span></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKLEpzw2c5Kc8A0RQxtUB6kz_xZ-ZWOfR6UeP7qm8FAglGG-HGawrIUUMQRyuyRDU4oZJJ-mgt1UIjSyESk-RehnO-s1GVFA7nVE5lD65KlATPXYxfb08JlQYWjiVFJyHJovl694BqBCXQeNKPClOy3cYHck4KxR9K1SwEqTH6UBfvTAgo2D6d2LhDb9O1/s3072/IMG_4152.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKLEpzw2c5Kc8A0RQxtUB6kz_xZ-ZWOfR6UeP7qm8FAglGG-HGawrIUUMQRyuyRDU4oZJJ-mgt1UIjSyESk-RehnO-s1GVFA7nVE5lD65KlATPXYxfb08JlQYWjiVFJyHJovl694BqBCXQeNKPClOy3cYHck4KxR9K1SwEqTH6UBfvTAgo2D6d2LhDb9O1/w640-h480/IMG_4152.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Pasticceria Boccione </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">28.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Al Pompiere restaurant. We haven’t been there
in years, but we always liked it – totally interior - </span><a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d866514-Reviews-Al_Pompiere_Ristorante_Roma-Rome_Lazio.html"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d866514-Reviews-Al_Pompiere_Ristorante_Roma-Rome_Lazio.html</span></a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMqviZgtHnkviQdgrefwydR7f2uF01lvRL6h9fm2jhMrw3-zfWaNJY_ySXJl_yNECO6HziVrpZOFodBrqpNtGtci0kGkOxtf1iDQp-UoZPP0ID1nlt0WAMP3WaDheKNmLp2xULKQsnSot6meStHYbrrKYX8a-6puBcT-QULD26wo-jPS5FsYxJ80HoES04/w400-h300/IMG_4153.JPG" width="400" /></span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Great Jewish
artichokes- there and elsewhere in the ghetto – they won’t be in season, but the restaurants get them now from Africa and sell them in all seasons. If you're not a purist, try them! <i>Carciofi
alla giudia</i> (not <i>alla romana</i>, though those are good too) [photo right].<o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;">29. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Largo di
Torre Argentina – supposedly where Julius Caesar was killed. It has informative
panels, and now you can walk</span><u style="font-family: inherit;"> in</u><span style="font-family: inherit;"> it.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; mso-spacerun: yes;"> It h</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">as</span><a href="https://www.gattidiroma.net/web/en/" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank"> a cat sanctuary </a><span style="font-family: inherit;">that is fun to visit, and you can "foster" a cat if you are going to be in Rome for more than a few days.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">30.
<span> </span>Feltrinelli book store – an international one with paper products and gifts<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">And in the
ghetto there’s lots of “spolia” – re-use of Roman ruins<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- if you look up at buildings<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2018/01/spolia-in-rome-reading-middle-ages-use.html"><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2018/01/spolia-in-rome-reading-middle-ages-use.html</span></a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 19.9733px;">Particularly in the area of Campo de’ Fiori and the ghetto, you will see some of these "stumbling blocks" if you look down - </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2013/10/here-lived-commemorating-italian-jews.html"><span style="line-height: 19.9733px;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2013/10/here-lived-commemorating-italian-jews.html</span></a>. They commemorate the Jews who were deported and died in the Holocaust, with the small brass block outside the doorway of the residence where that person once lived. We stopped to look at one near Largo di Torre Argentina and a young man came out to tell us that 6 of his cousins died at the hands of the Nazis.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjncybo4BJv8wv0Hnk9xOEBo0e9nxyXJwNyvN0gs6HhgIRBfXC4oUrit9cTq_GARqM535hCTCIQKN1yqsCrXDLxG04VAwL_-MZhB-XxDbwRr_AFSLJZi0t6pq2ojXa5Zqb62MlqjhtXp1TmMnkUA6XJPuHnyIZF0hPVPxDSoTxyenxCP-mwZ6ffA93WW4IX/s5472/DSC05874.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjncybo4BJv8wv0Hnk9xOEBo0e9nxyXJwNyvN0gs6HhgIRBfXC4oUrit9cTq_GARqM535hCTCIQKN1yqsCrXDLxG04VAwL_-MZhB-XxDbwRr_AFSLJZi0t6pq2ojXa5Zqb62MlqjhtXp1TmMnkUA6XJPuHnyIZF0hPVPxDSoTxyenxCP-mwZ6ffA93WW4IX/w640-h426/DSC05874.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campo de' Fiori at dawn, the statue of Giordano Bruno at center/right. Sometimes it's worth getting up early. Daybreak, June, 2015. </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p>Dianne <p></p></div></div></div></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-46455236956724533742024-01-04T10:28:00.000-08:002024-01-04T10:28:04.329-08:00The Auto Repair Garages of Rome<p>While walking in Rome, don't neglect the garages--the places where Romans get their cars and scooters repaired, or washed. Unlike many businesses, they are usually open to public view from the street. And they are in a variety of ways revealing--revealing of the interests and inclinations of the proprietors, who are invariably men. (We've seen a lot of women doing physical work in Rome--sweeping the streets, collecting garbage, delivering mail--but we have yet to see a female mechanic.)</p><p>Rome's a soccer town, and city-center Romans tend to be fans of the AS Roma team. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZTGwPad_x8tyOagJUwDZYYWVZTqKfR82OhDSBV-CrxU1iKpEQn8NnTC3wTps8wpMV3Y6lugXPoqyoJ-5ydG48v0aTL1vrBe3v7CtswBbxzrEroqnMF7uRKwJ1p3rABPhUjFrqp3czl2PrRBaq_UnnBTgCeZ-WczUZ3tWLUgK1nRvtALkrtyjcxrT4-06/s3072/IMG_3970.2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZTGwPad_x8tyOagJUwDZYYWVZTqKfR82OhDSBV-CrxU1iKpEQn8NnTC3wTps8wpMV3Y6lugXPoqyoJ-5ydG48v0aTL1vrBe3v7CtswBbxzrEroqnMF7uRKwJ1p3rABPhUjFrqp3czl2PrRBaq_UnnBTgCeZ-WczUZ3tWLUgK1nRvtALkrtyjcxrT4-06/w640-h480/IMG_3970.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of AS Roma stuff, and a shout-out to the military, at left.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-xa_w9JphqtUl6c4zVHf8ed5xoWbin3-Ocf-cWKBkbe18ylz757GkztGRBZvz1dzWe7SN_PLubY-u0JNV1wbYc5XwVassHdN82gOPJivm2DFJmuo7XTA1OZQe5hMohYQwamGdZmbJMDPuJjXzKpDEtwArpK7lx7M1y1LiogyqX4jWEiwt2GVK5qaOfBGC/s3072/IMG_1707.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-xa_w9JphqtUl6c4zVHf8ed5xoWbin3-Ocf-cWKBkbe18ylz757GkztGRBZvz1dzWe7SN_PLubY-u0JNV1wbYc5XwVassHdN82gOPJivm2DFJmuo7XTA1OZQe5hMohYQwamGdZmbJMDPuJjXzKpDEtwArpK7lx7M1y1LiogyqX4jWEiwt2GVK5qaOfBGC/w640-h480/IMG_1707.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More sedate. Just a Totti jersey. Tools organized.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Sometimes you have to wonder how the mechanic can find anything. Not sure I would take my car here (below).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Kf-cb-zQNTs-22W4hmBhniti1rQh3JjRbpQkebeumsWwdr7V7mBBsiFIyVGeWbXjJG9zealh0YuUkZBuVGVJ6Rzl953OZE2FeAQ1FdfwOWcmjZUwAW_eNkYVMxzDlyECkVh6O9v9eUq8JU_SOCw6obOvRA17mo0Zw-yP46Ll_iCaFoMpEmp0uALtgrMI/s5472/DSC09598.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Kf-cb-zQNTs-22W4hmBhniti1rQh3JjRbpQkebeumsWwdr7V7mBBsiFIyVGeWbXjJG9zealh0YuUkZBuVGVJ6Rzl953OZE2FeAQ1FdfwOWcmjZUwAW_eNkYVMxzDlyECkVh6O9v9eUq8JU_SOCw6obOvRA17mo0Zw-yP46Ll_iCaFoMpEmp0uALtgrMI/w640-h426/DSC09598.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Garages represent the last bastion of sexism. Pin-ups are less common than they were, say, 20 years ago, but they're still around, here and there (far left and elsewhere in the photo below). This garage in the photo below (taken in 2018) is in Tiburtina. [And see the garage pin-ups Bill discovered in 2012 at the end of this post.]</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fmAvxGSSAgT_JCAl75rL8wGOqdORIajU_B5SVyEeNGXBGE_QCW6RRk_0MoXQv9c5geFDsat4rLmfOB37Ez6OpTzRxqw5eQz_KX0wE_3jq9diYRoXIvHe8z65XG2FhZijZNWfvNoMEbjUfVdcLLbtE0HRue6k8nCCMo4eQwToNnkZoyZroCAKMYupLrEx/s5472/DSC06565.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fmAvxGSSAgT_JCAl75rL8wGOqdORIajU_B5SVyEeNGXBGE_QCW6RRk_0MoXQv9c5geFDsat4rLmfOB37Ez6OpTzRxqw5eQz_KX0wE_3jq9diYRoXIvHe8z65XG2FhZijZNWfvNoMEbjUfVdcLLbtE0HRue6k8nCCMo4eQwToNnkZoyZroCAKMYupLrEx/w640-h427/DSC06565.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very organized, clean, highly decorated. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>Scooter repair shops often have a more subdued vibe:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3CmCg3VJZJH2MLWbPgc1iDL1gw5EhC5c2zUJcbKsGXOLk7kz9tfgtCizlZTf_hxOLHqeaGOH6-_eyW3aCKmggKktWLEp_5iFBu9Yo3RsfGK-5aN8dduomD0n5RGVDWx4hxqrAGbA0ckV1KbMhxpKGlheThH_nghGFEHB3bW7WwQ0fZ3bCKxklhk0w2RV/s5472/DSC06568.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3CmCg3VJZJH2MLWbPgc1iDL1gw5EhC5c2zUJcbKsGXOLk7kz9tfgtCizlZTf_hxOLHqeaGOH6-_eyW3aCKmggKktWLEp_5iFBu9Yo3RsfGK-5aN8dduomD0n5RGVDWx4hxqrAGbA0ckV1KbMhxpKGlheThH_nghGFEHB3bW7WwQ0fZ3bCKxklhk0w2RV/w400-h266/DSC06568.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>This gommista (tire place) was closed when we went by, but the seranda was "revealing." </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4GmB71NPNZBfq9KmILHMNatNhVL7kQ7I2ZAI1X3KWTFe5s4Pb6pafv2XU-O4hZ0O0br0_9bPz_fMiooLnmRBHQzYCNt28sr_0Prlf3V6WTQ1ynJXT-_gkBWzj7rLDJn9xCouXjbbzsJApF2Bk9AFc7SRYgpTJV3YjKcV1-ZHISsbkoLcc70NqL2YicUhe/s5472/DSC09172.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4GmB71NPNZBfq9KmILHMNatNhVL7kQ7I2ZAI1X3KWTFe5s4Pb6pafv2XU-O4hZ0O0br0_9bPz_fMiooLnmRBHQzYCNt28sr_0Prlf3V6WTQ1ynJXT-_gkBWzj7rLDJn9xCouXjbbzsJApF2Bk9AFc7SRYgpTJV3YjKcV1-ZHISsbkoLcc70NqL2YicUhe/w426-h640/DSC09172.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p>Another tire place had created a waiting area for customers. Very "Los Angeles" we thought. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiKwcbc3REfaCol659FBJzJaei4RnS7Nv-OnfTzovFevEbvV-HTQnFGLmxhj9cbZhdRCIKhn0PhOwHsXmiw3XPscMSL3I38x1vfVuJ9D90DQffugbyxOrWJrm5KbROEtbqzMIRTVp0d5U51GLZIvE6VTdlo6ToPibOQ-yJoitE2EZ9orxYzqIeVCiZyMm/s5472/DSC09792.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiKwcbc3REfaCol659FBJzJaei4RnS7Nv-OnfTzovFevEbvV-HTQnFGLmxhj9cbZhdRCIKhn0PhOwHsXmiw3XPscMSL3I38x1vfVuJ9D90DQffugbyxOrWJrm5KbROEtbqzMIRTVp0d5U51GLZIvE6VTdlo6ToPibOQ-yJoitE2EZ9orxYzqIeVCiZyMm/w400-h266/DSC09792.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>It's not uncommon for auto repairs shops to do much of the work on the street. One could quibble about the use of "public property," but the activity is fun to watch. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCO0Kv-Fxlo1QT2lKZQRpFF6n6GZpeYbtvDl226Cm1rD5EeDZM8qdlWJ5bWcIiKyRaCj5w82HuRYquGd-z3G2H8OcnsGXU1bhjeEbbuhV9MYuDStoXnxxz7Bgn7Qe4e60CssRS-MQ3SLnqyNdYpdBbQKO8gMkdkXOnYKfCAHypu9MxJARH7s1Pml8zT3jX/s5472/DSC09686.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCO0Kv-Fxlo1QT2lKZQRpFF6n6GZpeYbtvDl226Cm1rD5EeDZM8qdlWJ5bWcIiKyRaCj5w82HuRYquGd-z3G2H8OcnsGXU1bhjeEbbuhV9MYuDStoXnxxz7Bgn7Qe4e60CssRS-MQ3SLnqyNdYpdBbQKO8gMkdkXOnYKfCAHypu9MxJARH7s1Pml8zT3jX/w640-h426/DSC09686.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steps from Piazza dei Re di Roma</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>This garage is interesting because of its location. It's cut into the Aurelian wall, in San Lorenzo. We saw it first on one of our "Wall Walks" in 2014, <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2015/11/aurelian-wall-walk-v-from-porta.html" target="_blank">written up here</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3MeW3XcQGsDkmHWfCLbflVXGR8PlvX_b_XbtjUwaIRTdVS8dgdE_pJwwz9Zujo3764_YLLOeWbRqUGq82UUw61aQThRp5dbmwZv641-d8JGt_7-mX34E0dBvQSCalN-_V4-aLyhS0Y2n5KVEmigMw5aEa1IOcsA9C84Q0dl9ukyabs7_YIenaPC2RdS5/s3072/IMG_5905.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3MeW3XcQGsDkmHWfCLbflVXGR8PlvX_b_XbtjUwaIRTdVS8dgdE_pJwwz9Zujo3764_YLLOeWbRqUGq82UUw61aQThRp5dbmwZv641-d8JGt_7-mX34E0dBvQSCalN-_V4-aLyhS0Y2n5KVEmigMw5aEa1IOcsA9C84Q0dl9ukyabs7_YIenaPC2RdS5/w400-h300/IMG_5905.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>And this garage is interesting because of what's inside and for sale: a 1965 1500L Fiat. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUL5gKC17MGIjG3tPlkSH0oRTSgb2bP-l4UdgAKEST6-qalBnZUXGrGXWOamHL9hy6YBMspMnh_I2ACaAz5v1mBgnnqSMk4-b6tohotctqdON39F8UqINKJi7CPHQ45Ifhxkcxxz1QeKf5Uz58a5DRZiD4qbsiT-FZ1SL_v6kL48a9NZOyU63Zj4npkWRQ/s5472/DSC04055.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUL5gKC17MGIjG3tPlkSH0oRTSgb2bP-l4UdgAKEST6-qalBnZUXGrGXWOamHL9hy6YBMspMnh_I2ACaAz5v1mBgnnqSMk4-b6tohotctqdON39F8UqINKJi7CPHQ45Ifhxkcxxz1QeKf5Uz58a5DRZiD4qbsiT-FZ1SL_v6kL48a9NZOyU63Zj4npkWRQ/w640-h426/DSC04055.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We'll close with a couple of car-wash places. The first is an <i>Auto Lavaggio a Mano</i>--a hand car wash, probably do-it-yourself (<i>fai da te</i>). The attraction here is a large picture of Jesus (and a smaller one upper right, not too prominent). </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbDFga2Dsv1ddr11horg7R2Dh7qAs1nI3KbnDd-tBHhwPurJrJ_OqXyDBRpxkBsjy06YESeaF_FtTEYV_qGTbafZEHUAVd_3BbSYMpHmCAn1BGiFzko-1n6s9_0onzaLaUZyfiYb-5IV9tuDlnah4D-soXWXf3o2UB156SX8RC8G7_tLMtrcZzkNfofcA/s3072/IMG_1780.2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbDFga2Dsv1ddr11horg7R2Dh7qAs1nI3KbnDd-tBHhwPurJrJ_OqXyDBRpxkBsjy06YESeaF_FtTEYV_qGTbafZEHUAVd_3BbSYMpHmCAn1BGiFzko-1n6s9_0onzaLaUZyfiYb-5IV9tuDlnah4D-soXWXf3o2UB156SX8RC8G7_tLMtrcZzkNfofcA/w640-h480/IMG_1780.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christian car wash</td></tr></tbody></table><p>And finally, from avant-garde Pigneto, a suggestion of who might be washing your car (as long as it's a Mercedes).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiloGjN0WHsmOZMunxuGTfgmhnk1PRYuM8-kYBp4dUKvq1C2aUYAqBJ5KieXQzEZsQycA66r48ExGRbPFwucbCDXS3C0ulJ0Xnx5OSiextRBndnyhHmB47KQVpiyOnFZTQNLnFRgQmqVUCRSlVs6XTf_z0C6eEoCMLmRBCGNCcfs_rXhzJpb3LRMkz14Xh8/s5472/DSC09937.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiloGjN0WHsmOZMunxuGTfgmhnk1PRYuM8-kYBp4dUKvq1C2aUYAqBJ5KieXQzEZsQycA66r48ExGRbPFwucbCDXS3C0ulJ0Xnx5OSiextRBndnyhHmB47KQVpiyOnFZTQNLnFRgQmqVUCRSlVs6XTf_z0C6eEoCMLmRBCGNCcfs_rXhzJpb3LRMkz14Xh8/w640-h426/DSC09937.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Bill (who else?)</p><p>A PS - In 2012, we found a set of pinups in a garage, and Bill declared it was the only one he had found to that point. His post titled "Garage Art: the Pinup in Rome" <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/02/garage-art-pinup-in-rome.html" target="_blank">is here</a>.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQThJBkfE7-AhG4OXwNPB9Cm0QsRbamn_XVM4f9Xv1RfF3T0eiVrOY4VujTwLCQMeXdfZaSD_fU1k0uGKTXL0bkYfS5_wHcXYpnIvKznK6r_8SoTn1hodNvjPXJYiOku_ehf8y35hEoe-V2U8umRftPuu_2W8daJQxK0NokIabErgwC6uy24QDIFS6PMmi/s640/pinup%202012.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQThJBkfE7-AhG4OXwNPB9Cm0QsRbamn_XVM4f9Xv1RfF3T0eiVrOY4VujTwLCQMeXdfZaSD_fU1k0uGKTXL0bkYfS5_wHcXYpnIvKznK6r_8SoTn1hodNvjPXJYiOku_ehf8y35hEoe-V2U8umRftPuu_2W8daJQxK0NokIabErgwC6uy24QDIFS6PMmi/w640-h480/pinup%202012.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-80141770531846960872023-12-16T15:36:00.000-08:002023-12-17T06:57:47.111-08:00Holidays in Rome, Part II: Listen, Taste, See <p> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit4QdIFv_ZVrg1zzUasLX_RELiPWm84e1FNXTHofTtwNsQ2OQVGUSOzR5evci0u7Z2MaAheaYA8yZd7_7_HLPtaeVCkeHbH-7f8KCxECWjn2FjCDr-0yzMnMV_Hc5mRKiHIA-u5GU8iSAEgbwZLkpzXQ2cQ5zkxkrjWMbbmXSf2QVcrWjSyueAHm9WjPPI/s299/download.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="168" data-original-width="299" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit4QdIFv_ZVrg1zzUasLX_RELiPWm84e1FNXTHofTtwNsQ2OQVGUSOzR5evci0u7Z2MaAheaYA8yZd7_7_HLPtaeVCkeHbH-7f8KCxECWjn2FjCDr-0yzMnMV_Hc5mRKiHIA-u5GU8iSAEgbwZLkpzXQ2cQ5zkxkrjWMbbmXSf2QVcrWjSyueAHm9WjPPI/w400-h225/download.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">New Year's Eve 2023 at Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus)</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"></b></div><p><span face="Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 14.84px;"><i>RST welcomes back </i></span></span></span><span face="Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri";"><span><i><span style="font-size: 14.84px;">guest blogger </span>Theresa Potenza.</i></span></span></span><span face="Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 14.84px;"><i> Based in Rome, Potenza is an art historian, private tour guide, and freelance writer. </i></span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 14.84px;"><i>To learn more about her private tours of Rome and read her travel and feature stories about Italy, check out: <a href="http://www.tourwiththeresa.com/">www.tourwiththeresa.com</a>.</i></span></span></span></p><div></div><div><span style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;"><b style="font-style: italic;">This is the second of two </b><span style="font-style: italic;"><b>posts</b></span><b><i> - since there is so much happening in Rome over the holidays. Part I, featuring Markets, Displays, The Vatican, and Worshipping, is <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2023/12/the-holidays-in-rome-part-i-markets.html" target="_blank">here</a>. Below Potenza finishes up her great recommendations with Listen, Taste and See.</i></b></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;"><b>And from us at RST, Buone Feste e Buon Anno!</b></span></div><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"></span></b></p><div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++</b></span></span></p></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">Listen</span></b></h3>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">As part of the culture and music festival <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Natalè Auditorium, </b>the Auditorium Parco
della Musica has shows almost every day of the week from now (they started December 8) to January 7.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Montserrat; font-size: 17pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Montserrat; mso-fareast-font-family: Montserrat; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The concert hall, an architectural masterpiece by Renzo
Piano opened in 2002, is not only a concert venue but a public music complex
with several concert halls and theaters. It is not to be missed on a trip to
Rome, and with its endless variety of shows in December there is something for
everyone.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">On Christmas Day check out the Harlem Gospel Choir, one of
America’s oldest gospel choirs, made up of voices from New York City. Audience participation is encouraged. The repertoire includes traditional and
contemporary gospel, jazz, and blues. A fantastic opportunity for a show that
has been performed for various Popes and US Presidents. And on New Year's Day
check out Tosca-Unico, a concert in three acts with excerpts from three shows.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTyiGmgD90OgBeBFUT-oOyc218r9mbFBM-T5nXxjs65xvbMab0EXjKm4XaYM08mpd3t7zEFWO-06MJhiUBo1yvGZf_MYxpBKWYr7_BkcEnoI2fgQEQAmZJbgtwnl7HqraPuPJFM-P9JyXz1RahvBhb8KuzHPgNfaouugZUov3Vb2tiOdcjuIhCwmJZ2164/s1920/Harlem-Gospel-Choir.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTyiGmgD90OgBeBFUT-oOyc218r9mbFBM-T5nXxjs65xvbMab0EXjKm4XaYM08mpd3t7zEFWO-06MJhiUBo1yvGZf_MYxpBKWYr7_BkcEnoI2fgQEQAmZJbgtwnl7HqraPuPJFM-P9JyXz1RahvBhb8KuzHPgNfaouugZUov3Vb2tiOdcjuIhCwmJZ2164/w640-h360/Harlem-Gospel-Choir.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Harlem Gospel Choir, scheduled to perform at Parco della Musica over the holidays</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">For a full schedule, check out the Auditorium website:
<a href="https://www.auditorium.com/it/festival/natale-auditorium/">https://www.auditorium.com/it/festival/natale-auditorium/</a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">A great way to combine live music with sightseeing in Rome
is Tram Jazz. A romantic night made up of a candle-light dinner, jazz concert, and evening tour of the historic center on an old-fashioned tram.</span><span style="color: #333333; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Check out the variety of swing, jazz, and
holiday music concerts on their website, <a href="https://tramjazz.com/en/">https://tramjazz.com/en/</a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSuOAWNdFIzd7ujnyVWJeek_wuCybW5bDDuioZD6BRq9BzBCu2iHLkKNl-uMOaTCCRyvifAWAJZEMKaLgmZkjc3isUMwSeBUSl4LgLbnD-FOSRyQ4d6dcGyczDZt3VUU0B0qDLU-pNKIvwvogj4b0nfHQstpgvuKhXNKP67KWnG4Dfpuxf2O5BkoAkqsOl/s5472/DSC00525.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSuOAWNdFIzd7ujnyVWJeek_wuCybW5bDDuioZD6BRq9BzBCu2iHLkKNl-uMOaTCCRyvifAWAJZEMKaLgmZkjc3isUMwSeBUSl4LgLbnD-FOSRyQ4d6dcGyczDZt3VUU0B0qDLU-pNKIvwvogj4b0nfHQstpgvuKhXNKP67KWnG4Dfpuxf2O5BkoAkqsOl/w640-h426/DSC00525.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Tram Jazz view of the Coliseum and the Arch of Constantine, 2022</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8SfGwaqOsC8ViPe27NUGF-uWFwP9wNdTOy6Shbtu5eumFYyE35IlRPiBTSKChmGNGpKYu_EvohzAsD86fPqWSW9H7WH2kgt56eVzNyc1ERWpGluhlaoOfQDjtNSqXzHy8EsqY1ZD_i-94jOQEVC2RHlRR_0KafQ7b-Mgin4ZsDFYyvcX3LrJXEHouxbI/s660/Capodanno2324Coverdef_d0.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="660" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8SfGwaqOsC8ViPe27NUGF-uWFwP9wNdTOy6Shbtu5eumFYyE35IlRPiBTSKChmGNGpKYu_EvohzAsD86fPqWSW9H7WH2kgt56eVzNyc1ERWpGluhlaoOfQDjtNSqXzHy8EsqY1ZD_i-94jOQEVC2RHlRR_0KafQ7b-Mgin4ZsDFYyvcX3LrJXEHouxbI/w400-h266/Capodanno2324Coverdef_d0.png" width="400" /></a></div><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">For the party animals, on New Year's Eve don’t miss the
largest outdoor concert in the city at Circus Maximus. Performers include Blanco, Lazza, and Francesca Michielin. Details (in Italian) on the Roma Capitale website here: <a href="https://www.comune.roma.it/web/it/notizia.page?contentId=NWS1117962">https://www.comune.roma.it/web/it/notizia.page?contentId=NWS1117962</a><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> <br /></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span></b></p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">Taste</span></b></h3>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">When in Rome, do as the Romans do, and feast for the
holidays. The Eternal City has been named in 2023 by Travelers' Choice as the best food
destination in the world. Make the most of it and try the traditional holiday
menus offered in restaurants of all price ranges throughout the city.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">For an exquisite Christmas experience,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mirabelle restaurant offers some of the
finest food and views in the entire city. As with most of Italy, Mirabelle
offers a Christmas Eve dinner menu that is seafood based with a variety of
first course and second course fish dishes including tagliatelle pasta with
cuttlefish, and roasted octopus. The Christmas Day lunch menu includes fine
delicacies such as foie gras, white truffle risotto, and deer filet. And you
can end the year in style and abundance with the New Years Eve menu complete
with oysters, lobster, pumpkin and white truffle pasta, veal filet, and even
good-luck lentils at midnight! Reservations can be made on the Mirabelle website, </span><span lang="EN"><a href="https://www.mirabelle.it/en"><span style="background: white; color: #1155cc; mso-highlight: white;">https://www.mirabelle.it/en</span></a><span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">.</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE2Cpb7_u3HiGEF4aHt_9soZGfPNJe-7DF9IKO9quJExgOzNrCDTw11sYTpct2ri37tqJp36tynAhpPsTSPfaLiVZlRGK5fhkVINAOS0PjTpC9s-GiXgKtsod9EJ2pXHYHMY7xBNBdk0-AvJv_S0o8fPtuHrAZ0tfaiqhlgrved9lfwp_UOmRDdz95Qkln/s680/Mirabelle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="453" data-original-width="680" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE2Cpb7_u3HiGEF4aHt_9soZGfPNJe-7DF9IKO9quJExgOzNrCDTw11sYTpct2ri37tqJp36tynAhpPsTSPfaLiVZlRGK5fhkVINAOS0PjTpC9s-GiXgKtsod9EJ2pXHYHMY7xBNBdk0-AvJv_S0o8fPtuHrAZ0tfaiqhlgrved9lfwp_UOmRDdz95Qkln/w400-h266/Mirabelle.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The view from Mirabelle--though maybe not in December. </span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">If you are looking for a more casual and traditional Roman
holiday meal, Casale Appio Locanda offers a fixed menu for lunch on Christmas
Day that provides the option for a traditional menu or a vegetarian menu
option.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The traditional menu includes
what most Roman families have for the holiday, cappelletti in brodo, along with
fettuccine with sausage and porcini mushrooms, roasted lamb, and Roman
artichokes. The vegetarian menu includes eggplant parmesan, spinach and ricotta
ravioli, broccoli flan and Roman artichokes. The kids' menu offers breaded beef
filets, roasted potatoes, and fettuccine bolognese. For reservations and for
their menu on December 26th (also a public holiday in Italy) and New Year's Day, check out their Facebook page: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/casaleappio">https://www.facebook.com/casaleappio</a><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ5fdb8y8cYpd7MitQErZGM0eo_28j0TACEqTvtWwrX3nXDXenkCHEnmjqTEtaSIKucIZXgsMT_lF6uBJQLi8DvbmE__ChIaU-Pw1s8VSjyzDLZpz_dUoraY9iHYvQ3FdcdMk3btBXWBa4w3updmmmlp8lEX3nLvpciCjJPECd6QFVV5bzDghOkT130qRi/s680/unnamed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="473" data-original-width="680" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ5fdb8y8cYpd7MitQErZGM0eo_28j0TACEqTvtWwrX3nXDXenkCHEnmjqTEtaSIKucIZXgsMT_lF6uBJQLi8DvbmE__ChIaU-Pw1s8VSjyzDLZpz_dUoraY9iHYvQ3FdcdMk3btBXWBa4w3updmmmlp8lEX3nLvpciCjJPECd6QFVV5bzDghOkT130qRi/w400-h279/unnamed.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Alle Frate di Trastevere (2015 photo)</span></i><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Finally, if you are desperate not to cook and prefer
instead some of your home-style traditionals for the holiday, Alle Fratte di
Trastevere will provide catered meals of whole roasted turkey or baked
honey-ham, delicacies typically hard to find in Rome. The restaurant will also
be open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with a traditional Roman menu a la
carte. Their website in English is here: </span><span style="color: #333333;"><a href="https://allefratteditrastevere.com/eng/home/Restaurant-in-Trastevere-Rome.html">https://allefratteditrastevere.com/eng/home/Restaurant-in-Trastevere-Rome.html</a></span><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span></b><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></p><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span></b><p></p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">See</span></b></h3>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5cvGkfBP0bu4XN5peaO05c3Cb-yfy6Tbiyzb8OXV8fU2O_YwfWCf0jYTG3jXcYqwGy7Sp1ebbCDUlnC0EwMmWC8tbeQU0guw9Fbvm2-rmFc2IhmRHr9PXd0LeJRAW7hGpvWqy0yVkEq50pzndXKQDVz6g3nzCZ9hyphenhyphenAc8BU_RAn4GGaiNl8xPfi23eEEq/s1200/rubens-1200x800-v1.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5cvGkfBP0bu4XN5peaO05c3Cb-yfy6Tbiyzb8OXV8fU2O_YwfWCf0jYTG3jXcYqwGy7Sp1ebbCDUlnC0EwMmWC8tbeQU0guw9Fbvm2-rmFc2IhmRHr9PXd0LeJRAW7hGpvWqy0yVkEq50pzndXKQDVz6g3nzCZ9hyphenhyphenAc8BU_RAn4GGaiNl8xPfi23eEEq/s320/rubens-1200x800-v1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Touch of Pygmalion</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">For those looking to consume culture, check out the
Borghese Gallery, one of the top 5 tourist attractions in Rome, hosting a
special exhibit on Rubens until February 2024. The exhibition, </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #1d1d1b; mso-highlight: white;">The touch of Pygmalion. Rubens and
sculpture in Rome, </span></i><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #1d1d1b; mso-highlight: white;">highlights the influence of the painter on new
concepts of the antique. And there's a special interactive experience for children. You will need advance tickets for a regular visit (the English tour, btw, is excellent) as well as for the children's experience. Website (in English) is here:</span><div><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #1d1d1b; mso-highlight: white;"> <a href="https://galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it/en/">https://galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it/en/</a><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d1d1b;">For a break from ancient and Renaissance art, check out the Andy
Warhol exhibition, </span><i style="color: #1d1d1b; mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Andy Warhol Universo
Warhol</i><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #1d1d1b;">, on until March 2024 at the Historical Infantry Museum (</span><i style="color: #1d1d1b;">Museo storico della fanteria</i><span style="color: #1d1d1b;">), not far from the Termini Train Station at Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. The
exhibition brings to life the Pop Art genius through a collection of
silk-screen prints, ceramics, legendary vinyl and magazine covers, Polaroid
photos and advertising posters from public and private collections.</span></span><span style="color: #1d1d1b; mso-spacerun: yes;"> Though the museum is usually free, this elaborate exhibition comes with a price tag. See <a href="https://www.turismoroma.it/en/events/andy-warhol-universo-warhol" target="_blank">website here in English</a> - scroll down on that website for opening hours and links to buy tickets. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uWLUnWd4VKu6c_0Vmo3dLuI0D5CgRcnRqw6ENgxLclVvYLdgqqlnVxM7VCUa7ik9Me8JeXODeTMGOYVSCrcYSVYkbcwITZ5MEBpQqYnMZbcF4LqxYPHgXi3n0oskgon6kqA7yj1ULJ0vAqLzA0by1S3od-X6KzATLdgHaBc4NuEWa2ddv23g-EGjmgdD/s640/thumbnail_IMG_7402.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="481" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uWLUnWd4VKu6c_0Vmo3dLuI0D5CgRcnRqw6ENgxLclVvYLdgqqlnVxM7VCUa7ik9Me8JeXODeTMGOYVSCrcYSVYkbcwITZ5MEBpQqYnMZbcF4LqxYPHgXi3n0oskgon6kqA7yj1ULJ0vAqLzA0by1S3od-X6KzATLdgHaBc4NuEWa2ddv23g-EGjmgdD/w482-h640/thumbnail_IMG_7402.jpg" width="482" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">The holiday season is also a great time to witness the
spectacular light show at Rome’s Botanical Garden. The light show entitled
“Trame di Luce” transforms the natural space into a fairy tale world of sensory
art, light, and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>music. The sensory
immersion is part of an international light art festival held for the first
time in Italy and on until January 8th 2024. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">One of the many<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>family-friendly exhibits in Rome to enhance your holiday spirit in a
historic setting. For booking go to their website, <a href="https://tramediluce.it/">https://tramediluce.it/</a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-59374447825202733792023-12-08T12:34:00.000-08:002023-12-08T19:19:30.449-08:00The Holidays in Rome, Part I: Markets, Displays, The Vatican, Worshipping<p><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRg-Fe5nfcEpB4_dJOkxczyQ2TyX7V1YIpJ8DnlegCP45y41czEIk9-oIEIsU4bcOnd7zVuXqu5OR9tQBv5fImysStZiGwMslnJTEFoNdnFHy_9FoJN28xXiU6UODEpCuTi8EdWX5ccVb8l74oSd_rVod8m7dol-SU9PUprOzJg4bmbGLVzBZvUzY3Gv6/s640/thumbnail_IMG_7460.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="640" height="401" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRg-Fe5nfcEpB4_dJOkxczyQ2TyX7V1YIpJ8DnlegCP45y41czEIk9-oIEIsU4bcOnd7zVuXqu5OR9tQBv5fImysStZiGwMslnJTEFoNdnFHy_9FoJN28xXiU6UODEpCuTi8EdWX5ccVb8l74oSd_rVod8m7dol-SU9PUprOzJg4bmbGLVzBZvUzY3Gv6/w640-h401/thumbnail_IMG_7460.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></p><p><span face="Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 14.84px;"><i>RST is pleased to welcome back </i></span></span></span><span face="Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri";"><span><i><span style="font-size: 14.84px;">guest blogger </span>Theresa Potenza<span style="font-size: 14.84px;"> </span></i></span></span></span><span face="Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 14.84px;"><i>(her last </i>RST<i> post was in <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2018/12/see-eat-listen-shop-pray-watch-rome-at.html" target="_blank">2018 on holidays in Rome</a> and before that on<a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2014/04/fu-turing-at-cerveteri-discovering.html" target="_blank"> the Etruscans in nearby Cerveteri </a> - she's a scholar of Etruscan history). Based in Rome, Potenza is an art historian, private tour guide, and freelance writer. </i></span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 14.84px;"><i>To learn more about her private tours of Rome and read her travel and feature stories about Italy, check out: <a href="http://www.tourwiththeresa.com/">www.tourwiththeresa.com</a>. (Also, her article <a href="https://www.wantedinrome.com/news/pregnancy-in-rome-in-the-covid-19-era.html">here, on giving birth in Rome during Covid</a> - an amazing tale [yes, they both got Covid] - and at the end of the post a photo of Theresa and her family.)</i></span></span></span></p><div></div><div><i style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;"><b>This is the first of two </b><span><b>posts</b></span><b> - since there is so much happening in Rome over the holidays. Part II, which will go up in a week or so, features "Listen" (music apart from the religious context, which is detailed below), "Taste" (special holiday restaurant meals), and "See" (exhibitions and light shows).</b></i></div><div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++</b></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">There is no better place to visit than Rome during the
holidays.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A city that is eternally
enchanting becomes even more so during the magic of Christmastime. The holiday
season traditionally begins in Italy with the feast of the Immaculate
Conception on December 8 and ends with the feast of the Epiphany on January
6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Eternal City is the center of
the action and provides many opportunities and occasions to celebrate. Whether
you want to shop, eat, pray, or witness the great spectacles of holiday cheer,
here is an updated list of what to do and where in Rome during winter 2023.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">Holiday markets</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuI3ndHFSzqACbu3cgYrsovxXBdEfw3cbAzX1xSoAcn2RT0ITG9azS77VFs3HZivVvtQvKeUTr61uj44OiF-iXxgxrs0XNXL5ulBRV7xU9AH63c1OZjzfBey9_qtZ1TxYHcwXVQYGL2yIFR-PsYj89JPXAE4dRpia2FRr05UBfmTHZ-0woNipIaQ74l4wl/s2560/Mercatini_di_Natale_Piazza_Navona_Roma1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuI3ndHFSzqACbu3cgYrsovxXBdEfw3cbAzX1xSoAcn2RT0ITG9azS77VFs3HZivVvtQvKeUTr61uj44OiF-iXxgxrs0XNXL5ulBRV7xU9AH63c1OZjzfBey9_qtZ1TxYHcwXVQYGL2yIFR-PsYj89JPXAE4dRpia2FRr05UBfmTHZ-0woNipIaQ74l4wl/s320/Mercatini_di_Natale_Piazza_Navona_Roma1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Above, another photo of the Piazza Navona market<br />(photo at top of post also is from the market).</b></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">One of the city’s oldest Christmas traditions is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mercatino della Befana</i> in Piazza
Navona.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Baroque square with
Bernini’s fountain has been a backdrop for holiday magic and events for
hundreds of years. In the ancient times the area was a stadium for track and
field competitions, and in the 17th century it was the stage for elaborate events for the
Papal Pamphili family. Since about the 18th century when the legend of the
Italian witch known as the <i>befana</i> became popular, the square has been a
favorite destination for Roman families and tourists alike shopping for, among
other things, candy “coal." According to Italian legend, the <i>befana</i> witch
delivers presents or coal in stockings for children the night before the
Epiphany. As the legend has it, the three Magi stopped the <i>befana</i> to ask for
directions on their way to bring gifts to newborn Jesus. She apparently did not
have directions and is still out wandering, visiting families.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The story began in Rome and is still thriving
in Italian households and especially in Piazza Navona. At the market you can
enjoy a carousel ride, puppet shows, games, and stalls selling candy,
hand-crafted <i>befana</i>, nativity sets and other crafts. The festival will be open
until the day of Epiphany of January 6.<br /> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg254R8C4KxfGNXWoq1wHNU9DAgF7YT4ydEvEXAeqvnCRjbdwvc4hAj_vF28lL-Cdqo5dWXMq7Eg6ES9UZWO8-HTJTEBC-oV2v-ngswMeAVzOy4SM4rZ1bCrJNHQwbeg9MOinCeCa24_CHwybnpB-mTVBhEZhNik-9_fERZMuXyUQLqgfpDclAYDHCYtZ3p/s148/Natale%204.jpg" style="background-color: white; clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="148" data-original-width="148" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg254R8C4KxfGNXWoq1wHNU9DAgF7YT4ydEvEXAeqvnCRjbdwvc4hAj_vF28lL-Cdqo5dWXMq7Eg6ES9UZWO8-HTJTEBC-oV2v-ngswMeAVzOy4SM4rZ1bCrJNHQwbeg9MOinCeCa24_CHwybnpB-mTVBhEZhNik-9_fERZMuXyUQLqgfpDclAYDHCYtZ3p/s1600/Natale%204.jpg" width="148" /></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The largest Christmas festival in the city, </span><i style="color: #333333; mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Il Natale nel Mondo</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">, will be held in
Villa Borghese. </span><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">Covering an area of 60,000 mq, it hosts everything you can
dream of for Christmas. You will find original folklore shows, gospel concerts,
a chocolate factory, an ice-skating rink, Santa’s house, a double-decker
carousel, life-sized nativity scenes, reproductions of cities around the world,
and food and wine stalls. What more could you ask for Christmas? </span><span lang="EN"><a href="https://christmasworld.net/"><span style="background: white; color: #1155cc; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-highlight: white;">https://christmasworld.net/</span></a>, [Website in Italian; try your translator if you need it. Tickets may be purchased online through the website.]</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The city hosts several small artisan markets
throughout December in various locations where you can shop for anything from hand-made
ornaments to specialty chocolates. Most of the markets run earlier in the month
and finish by Christmas Eve, designed for those getting a head start on gift
shopping. For some of the best local Italian food items, check out the
Testaccio market until December 24.</span><span style="color: #333333;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">You can find the program for Rome’s markets on the city’s website,</span><span style="color: #333333;">
</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><a href="https://www.comune.roma.it/web/it/notizia.page?contentId=NWS1114598">https://www.comune.roma.it/web/it/notizia.page?contentId=NWS1114598</a> [Great information, again, in Italian.]</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">Christmas displays</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">This year, Rome’s Christmas tree will be displayed in
Piazza del Popolo, instead of its usual location in Piazza Venezia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tree comes from Como in northern Italy [a shout-out to Dianne's relatives' home province] and was lit today, December 8, a public holiday in Italy. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The Vatican Christmas tree will be lit and the nativity
scene unveiled instead on December 9, following the Pope’s celebration of the
Immaculate Conception on December 8.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">The Vatican</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">As you can imagine, the Vatican makes a big deal out of
Christmas, making it one of the most magical destinations to visit and
celebrate in December.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The decorations
in St. Peter’s Square include an 80-foot silver fir tree from Cuneo in Northern
Italy, decorated with edelweiss native to the Alps, and a life size nativity
scene. Every year different artists from around the world are chosen for a
creative nativity display. This year the nativity set will feature terracotta statues made by the Italian diocese in Rieti. The life-sized figures
are designed to commemorate the 800-year anniversary of the first living
nativity started by St. Francis in 1223 in the town of Greccio. The anniversary
of the live nativity also corresponds with the celebration of Pope Francis’
87th birthday in December. In the colonnade of St. Peter's Square there
will be a display of 100 artistic nativity sets, an annual art exhibition known
as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">100 Presepe</i>. [See <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2020/12/a-contemporary-nativity-scene-at-st.html" target="_blank">Larry Litman's <i>RST</i> post</a> about the presepe display in 2020.}</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd03BDsbt8R9w-uOB5JjtGbq_48oNsBXb1RbJAjFAFJSiaucEuDjSKZsCeCBlVMtu73fKPYptomJHNQ30VrvlnHSSLax7p8p9ZitTPKV1fUABHTYq6UJe7hYaj09yEzORP39PK2RuGl2JpbDZmqxk1DX-acwpK_1MhWTMEZlDYOGw-hWhZ_anUclQHY5Ca/s640/Natale%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="362" data-original-width="640" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd03BDsbt8R9w-uOB5JjtGbq_48oNsBXb1RbJAjFAFJSiaucEuDjSKZsCeCBlVMtu73fKPYptomJHNQ30VrvlnHSSLax7p8p9ZitTPKV1fUABHTYq6UJe7hYaj09yEzORP39PK2RuGl2JpbDZmqxk1DX-acwpK_1MhWTMEZlDYOGw-hWhZ_anUclQHY5Ca/w400-h226/Natale%203.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Nativity scene at St. Peter's 2020. Photo by Larry Litman. </span></b></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZCn_46hZ8lazoMndM5qTnTh1TiyIsZbCyfnlbWY7Z8hywnPXKnmJ2uk7pn5tciMzSBOzL2sskJlvxbH2NRLf20rVD2xEV-My7KGN9aTABtUQeQ4WkujPQU2BdwyswEOy_e5xW5S0mBO7vrLweMWPJPpg16SJoCEtWazOMRxu6wyiP9jFxuEuDliy6O8c/s204/Natale%206.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="148" data-original-width="204" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZCn_46hZ8lazoMndM5qTnTh1TiyIsZbCyfnlbWY7Z8hywnPXKnmJ2uk7pn5tciMzSBOzL2sskJlvxbH2NRLf20rVD2xEV-My7KGN9aTABtUQeQ4WkujPQU2BdwyswEOy_e5xW5S0mBO7vrLweMWPJPpg16SJoCEtWazOMRxu6wyiP9jFxuEuDliy6O8c/s1600/Natale%206.jpg" width="204" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Greccio </span></b></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span><div><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">It is also worth a day trip to the historic village of
Greccio, just an hour outside Rome, for a creative collection of artistic
nativity scenes, and to walk through history as it relates to the life of St.
Francis.<br /><a href="https://www.wantedinrome.com/news/greccio-home-of-the-worlds-first-nativity-scene.html"> https://www.wantedinrome.com/news/greccio-home-of-the-worlds-first-nativity-scene.html</a><o:p></o:p></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><br /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">Pray</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">To celebrate the feast of the Immaculate Conception and
the official start of the holiday season in Rome, Pope Francis made a
pilgrimage to the statue of the Virgin Mary at the Spanish Steps on December 8. On Christmas Eve,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“midnight”
mass will be held at 7:30pm inside St. Peter's Basilica, and the Pope will also
greet the crowds on Christmas Day at noon for the “Urbi et Orbi” benediction.
It is also possible to attend the Pope’s Te Deum prayers on New Year's Eve
inside St. Peter's Basilica at 5pm. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The official Vatican website provides a calendar of holy
celebrations by Pope Francis.</span><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN"><a href="https://www.vatican.va/content/francesco/it/events/year.dir.html/2023.html"><span style="background: white; color: #1155cc; mso-highlight: white;">https://www.vatican.va/content/francesco/it/events/year.dir.html/2023.html</span></a> [Website in Italian].</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333;">For English language mass, you can reference the web pages
for St. Patrick's Catholic American Parish, which will offer a family mass on
Christmas Eve at 4:30pm, and the “midnight” mass at 7:30pm. </span><span lang="EN"><a href="https://stpatricksamericanrome.org/"><span style="background: white; color: #1155cc; mso-highlight: white;">https://stpatricksamericanrome.org/</span></a><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="background-color: white;">.</span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">All Saints Anglican Church will have a Crib service
at 5pm on Christmas Eve, and the “midnight” mass at 11:30pm. </span><span lang="EN"><a href="https://www.allsaintsrome.org/schedule"><span style="background: white; color: #1155cc; mso-highlight: white;">https://www.allsaintsrome.org/schedule</span></a>.<span style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN" style="background: white; color: #333333; mso-highlight: white;">St. Paul's Within the Walls church will host a grand
Christmas concert on December 23rd with solo artists, choir and orchestra, featuring popular holiday music. </span><span lang="EN"><a href="https://www.operainroma.com/rome/?re-product-id=271221"><span style="background: white; color: #1155cc; mso-highlight: white;">https://www.operainroma.com/rome/?re-product-id=271221</span></a> [Website in both Italian and English].</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOdQBwuRCQgcLUCfgH-rubU8CUhGUtxkt-DjqTfy5CsdZdTNwdTIctLfJdWvpIMQUFr_AOlKkQWa1fy3Md3-qDL879Ph_ScJTsBIC5TDCosu2h6dgjj4_bm9U2D2STPTovC057Vc9wdmNcsf-DDxOGGB2vRk68wUE1Fsck5A2RCl1u_jH0x58oDJXI1UkC/s767/Natale%207.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="512" data-original-width="767" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOdQBwuRCQgcLUCfgH-rubU8CUhGUtxkt-DjqTfy5CsdZdTNwdTIctLfJdWvpIMQUFr_AOlKkQWa1fy3Md3-qDL879Ph_ScJTsBIC5TDCosu2h6dgjj4_bm9U2D2STPTovC057Vc9wdmNcsf-DDxOGGB2vRk68wUE1Fsck5A2RCl1u_jH0x58oDJXI1UkC/w640-h428/Natale%207.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">St. Paul's Within the Walls </span></i></b><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJU4YsVqNbCOiuhHnUrLcFMLqX8bMelABn4h-RERfZO35VglDJmrsKXjxppl4f1dj-kf9VuhTTwm62IXpFgxwdh6rpjvYDJcsS-RVLjG0COfgcTHNF1mIQLiXI1wSuWLAV2AYolp4Ew2Hx6xLiyT2BFZHCRKQK_XZNT0Tm2d-qsxrgSkGXLZEGMJ1UHy7T/s640/image.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="640" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJU4YsVqNbCOiuhHnUrLcFMLqX8bMelABn4h-RERfZO35VglDJmrsKXjxppl4f1dj-kf9VuhTTwm62IXpFgxwdh6rpjvYDJcsS-RVLjG0COfgcTHNF1mIQLiXI1wSuWLAV2AYolp4Ew2Hx6xLiyT2BFZHCRKQK_XZNT0Tm2d-qsxrgSkGXLZEGMJ1UHy7T/s320/image.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Left, author Theresa Potenza and her family. Photo by Rome photographer <span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; white-space-collapse: preserve-breaks;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/will.i.am.mbiena/?hl=en">will.i.am.mbiena</a>.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span face="-apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; white-space-collapse: preserve-breaks;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Part II next week!</b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-5699699065317267002023-11-30T14:11:00.000-08:002023-11-30T14:11:26.558-08:00Remembering Giacomo Matteotti, and the Early Days of Italian Fascism<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKGJ9t8Yew7jk41z7qcJLAhpm66lYjgJ_NGp-oFDnKPScTm1vs9qXM9YCTQ8M8usQyvjgG97o_dXZXpqndUTluZOJ-z-5NOj0ZRlXsz3j12r5yW7cc0yv_Y3Jmnpl337sHo2nkrf9sYCTlsxl6wOpvRm9pweraqxVsxaeFZ1mvtrgZm9Oo7iUu0iwwjLN/s5472/DSC06020.2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKGJ9t8Yew7jk41z7qcJLAhpm66lYjgJ_NGp-oFDnKPScTm1vs9qXM9YCTQ8M8usQyvjgG97o_dXZXpqndUTluZOJ-z-5NOj0ZRlXsz3j12r5yW7cc0yv_Y3Jmnpl337sHo2nkrf9sYCTlsxl6wOpvRm9pweraqxVsxaeFZ1mvtrgZm9Oo7iUu0iwwjLN/s320/DSC06020.2.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><p>One of Rome's least prominent--and probably least visited--memorials is located on the Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia, just steps from the Tevere, near Ponte Pietro Nenni--a 5-minute walk from bustling Piazza del Popolo.</p><p>There, on June 1924 (two years after the March on Rome), while walking along the Lungotevere Arnaldo, the Italian politician Giacomo Matteotti was waylaid, thrown into a Lancia Lambda, and stabbed to death. Of the 5 men involved, one was a prominent member of the Fascist secret police. The extent of Benito Mussolini's involvement is not clear. [<a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2016/10/the-pope-and-mussolini-what-and-who-did.html" target="_blank">See the RST post</a> on David Kertzer's book <i>The Pope and Mussolini</i> for more information.]</p><p>Matteotti was an anti-Fascist socialist--a member of the Unitary Socialist Party--and a deputy in the parliament. Ten days prior to his murder, he had spoken in the parliament, concerned about violence that had occurred during recent elections and critical of the anti-democratic Acerbo law, which had assigned 2/3 of the seats in parliament to the party of Mussolini--the largest in the body--which had won 35% of the vote. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE49b3DLUO53nYehLAIjT4ArOEBoCgJhEp91K81y-ybwbFGXxuSKuqmCHPdJyucn2zTtvaNQC-7ugF8YSpsya-yt_cOc76djVgcJmjqv_pEsIQP9ei3iY2_hyphenhyphenUpvgaTpDQPsQdFR05lMFTc-4AEPj6xT5ekbwpHGc__ZG7B8PF9psuhxle1_AN1w-PhyphenhyphenLN/s5472/DSC06019.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE49b3DLUO53nYehLAIjT4ArOEBoCgJhEp91K81y-ybwbFGXxuSKuqmCHPdJyucn2zTtvaNQC-7ugF8YSpsya-yt_cOc76djVgcJmjqv_pEsIQP9ei3iY2_hyphenhyphenUpvgaTpDQPsQdFR05lMFTc-4AEPj6xT5ekbwpHGc__ZG7B8PF9psuhxle1_AN1w-PhyphenhyphenLN/w640-h478/DSC06019.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The monument to Matteotti occupies a semi-circular green space on an elevated terrace above the river. The space can be accessed by the Lungotevere or from the river bank, via a substantial staircase that appears to be a part of the memorial. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_EiBye2I-0bMS2E6Muq1PaNUY-ATZ7Jsnk7BYfDCv0DIWm9dgZy_RsMvpZloMI6MIYVuby5GONXROlQO1H4g6IEQbZdxy4AWj5KrnJzyjdW97QG9OANDaNZ96aSyvDH-5DwxnvJgOIwvWJ0AfZxtIxYKL4ho8TpFYrqv90uGwzyuZRHyqfsWblTVuVF9R/s5472/DSC06016.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_EiBye2I-0bMS2E6Muq1PaNUY-ATZ7Jsnk7BYfDCv0DIWm9dgZy_RsMvpZloMI6MIYVuby5GONXROlQO1H4g6IEQbZdxy4AWj5KrnJzyjdW97QG9OANDaNZ96aSyvDH-5DwxnvJgOIwvWJ0AfZxtIxYKL4ho8TpFYrqv90uGwzyuZRHyqfsWblTVuVF9R/w640-h426/DSC06016.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBo3w6irZMkmlHkDbiMfokasGsrxfyLslHW7xVlOWMRV_eVQMwvnTyYQ8aW1G6ZeswUySWldb7VqgnDpssZ3x8NRQKrIHDNWf4zV8iY-KtsIX9ius2coM-Td4rwR9zxCpy1hya71thP0R60f70a4_XAg9frMkqeL_Tblp4ThyYU6XTS-j2DLfCD64BGPvE/s5472/DSC06024.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBo3w6irZMkmlHkDbiMfokasGsrxfyLslHW7xVlOWMRV_eVQMwvnTyYQ8aW1G6ZeswUySWldb7VqgnDpssZ3x8NRQKrIHDNWf4zV8iY-KtsIX9ius2coM-Td4rwR9zxCpy1hya71thP0R60f70a4_XAg9frMkqeL_Tblp4ThyYU6XTS-j2DLfCD64BGPvE/w266-h400/DSC06024.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Inaugurated in 1974 (50 years after Matteotti's death) and paid for by the Socialist Party, the bronze memorial consists of two very different sculptures, both by <a href="https://www.macn.it/fr/collection/vivarelli-jorio/" target="_blank">Jorio Vivarelli</a> (1922-2008), who as a soldier was captured and imprisoned in 1943 by the German forces. The monument includes the words, "Although you kill me, the idea within me can never be killed."<p></p><p>The original plaque was smashed in January 2017, 6 months before we visited the site and these photos were taken. </p><p>Bill </p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-75653364747270800142023-11-09T15:05:00.001-08:002023-11-09T15:05:40.783-08:00Luigi Moretti's Il Girasole: a House Divided <p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbY0mlJdMXXsYAbRJG4-0OyFsRz3KcLh8yltrqg6dzscQSqSzSSzz-TozvPEaaAd6Ayc4y6zQKBcsynvi5-pt3kpXY_Uc80nq8INF_1vSMiuulFavCAz0aCs7Rlw8Y60W_NgDMaB5pGG7aQWUV2l15JUzJASEVlT1CGHtW9tHv3GoBgWFu4U66K_N8dQ7t/s3072/IMG_7994.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbY0mlJdMXXsYAbRJG4-0OyFsRz3KcLh8yltrqg6dzscQSqSzSSzz-TozvPEaaAd6Ayc4y6zQKBcsynvi5-pt3kpXY_Uc80nq8INF_1vSMiuulFavCAz0aCs7Rlw8Y60W_NgDMaB5pGG7aQWUV2l15JUzJASEVlT1CGHtW9tHv3GoBgWFu4U66K_N8dQ7t/w640-h480/IMG_7994.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il Girasole. From this angle especially, easy to pass up, to walk by, as if were just another building.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>We're walkers, but we don't recommend walking viale Bruno Buozzi (in the Parioli quartiere), unless there's a reason to do so. (Though it's named for <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2018/02/bruno-buozzi-nazi-victim-who-gave-his.html" target="_blank">an influential union leader</a> murdered by the Nazis towards the end of World War II.) It's a long and curvy street, more or less connecting viale Parioli with via Flaminia, with few attractions and minimal commerce. Not all that interesting. </p><p>But there is at least one reason to walk that walk: Luigi Moretti's "Il Girasole" (The Sunflower) house. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqblvmmShnv1iorEhUT4mTdiYsl1bIUGhFDKdHDs58ZtM9wQH6Ez30d3Eme2g1X4atxN59IJ2OYMw6ITl8l9rro6vZ9shgM7pmNaZdKMM6N7xM0gQKAY1TwltTzNVjHPuQ57sLclK3pJpwRR4WvlQUXre7pERTt_UeguqjpRCP7p2NoWUq3m20-diqzhp/s3072/IMG_7995.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqblvmmShnv1iorEhUT4mTdiYsl1bIUGhFDKdHDs58ZtM9wQH6Ez30d3Eme2g1X4atxN59IJ2OYMw6ITl8l9rro6vZ9shgM7pmNaZdKMM6N7xM0gQKAY1TwltTzNVjHPuQ57sLclK3pJpwRR4WvlQUXre7pERTt_UeguqjpRCP7p2NoWUq3m20-diqzhp/w640-h480/IMG_7995.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il Girasole, as it looked in 2012. That split in the middle is important.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Its architect is famous, and not only in Italy and Rome, his home town. Born in 1907, Moretti studied architecture at the Royal School of Architecture in Rome, then worked for several years with archeologist and art historian Corrado Ricci on aspects of Trajan's Market. In the 1930s he became one of Italian Fascism's favored architects, designing the <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/03/rst-top-40-10-luigi-morettis-ex-gil.html" target="_blank">fascist youth organization building in Trastevere</a> (1933) and several buildings in the Foro Mussolini, including Mussolini's gymnasium (1936) and the Academy of Fencing (1936).</p><p>In the United States, he designed the Watergate Complex in Washington, D.C., notorious for the 1972 burglary of Democratic National Committee Headquarters that precipitated the "Watergate scandal," and produced the political term "Watergate" and all the other "-gates" (scandals) that followed.</p><p>"Il Girasole" is a postwar work, designed in 1949 and built in 1950. It's considered an early example of postmodern architecture, a building architect and theorist <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2016/01/the-postwar-american-academy-in-rome.html" target="_blank">Robert Venturi</a> described as ambiguous, existing in a new space between tradition and innovation.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03qWr7lrp9FNAfVqPafNZCt8kITXanuzWbjgm5ukth4wHy1aPT0DcM9B_W1G32xMOptc5dI5k4j8f3Zaxe9UbgKHqbDIZS8AjuxLkuTxcA4JROr-MZPwyNL6HuAAd0rLSKng554gCE2NZ-SvbS4sgx5V3TqRcQroW8sI3jaj-gKloCfMhnYJQM_hYRyzv/s536/Il%20Girasole%20Moretti.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="360" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03qWr7lrp9FNAfVqPafNZCt8kITXanuzWbjgm5ukth4wHy1aPT0DcM9B_W1G32xMOptc5dI5k4j8f3Zaxe9UbgKHqbDIZS8AjuxLkuTxcA4JROr-MZPwyNL6HuAAd0rLSKng554gCE2NZ-SvbS4sgx5V3TqRcQroW8sI3jaj-gKloCfMhnYJQM_hYRyzv/w430-h640/Il%20Girasole%20Moretti.jpg" width="430" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo, from an earlier period, shows off the structure's <br />horizontal lines as well as its vertical division. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6oXCHoi3Y3CXxpk38HFlKkShevB_4DyT8r_8eVDYooWM-L8qCIp8ppEmGft3EVfH1DiKT9akTHKcHRdhNHtM527Ka9Bi6_vhx7b7QYQxpBgVn07cjnpzwp6ev1h_bUJn6kllRLeAh1Qh47loOGCDwJo1-mFN9sWZOuEgHgEOUDlbBYpMVGeMVhakCg9-/s1060/Moretti%20Girasole%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV6oXCHoi3Y3CXxpk38HFlKkShevB_4DyT8r_8eVDYooWM-L8qCIp8ppEmGft3EVfH1DiKT9akTHKcHRdhNHtM527Ka9Bi6_vhx7b7QYQxpBgVn07cjnpzwp6ev1h_bUJn6kllRLeAh1Qh47loOGCDwJo1-mFN9sWZOuEgHgEOUDlbBYpMVGeMVhakCg9-/w484-h640/Moretti%20Girasole%202.jpg" width="484" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shot of the interior emphasizes Moretti's origins in modernism, though the<br />brickwork/window, jutting out (and interrupting) at left, has a post-modern valence. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Swiss architectural theorist Stanislaus von Moss has argued that Venturi's Vanna House (1962-1964) "recalls the duality of the facade of Luigi Moretti's apartment house on the Via Parioli [sic: viale Bruno Buozzi] in Rome." We agree. And both the Vanna House and Il Girasole disrupt the flow of modernism. Hence modernism, with a post-modern touch.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZfWMrR30TCkJSU6ZD6D1AByM4-QiYJx_3XGiN-_SthPOagCDTq1_QlVgAdSVHCZvIAr9O7_0WYack7zvt8GzyR8AqWrgwq8Xmd4-Avm7o2FbzZm3pl7HpnG3Eam6JGrFkxChJm2LHv4rsxZuzD3Gt7NboWMu8VF2jaoO9jecsVQ6d87pVMoZ16gUbqcV/s266/Vanna%20Venturi%20House%203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="190" data-original-width="266" height="457" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZfWMrR30TCkJSU6ZD6D1AByM4-QiYJx_3XGiN-_SthPOagCDTq1_QlVgAdSVHCZvIAr9O7_0WYack7zvt8GzyR8AqWrgwq8Xmd4-Avm7o2FbzZm3pl7HpnG3Eam6JGrFkxChJm2LHv4rsxZuzD3Gt7NboWMu8VF2jaoO9jecsVQ6d87pVMoZ16gUbqcV/w640-h457/Vanna%20Venturi%20House%203.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Moretti also designed villas for wealthy patrons, including La Villa Saracena (1954), in the village of Santa Marinella, about an hour by car from the center of Rome. In 1958, he was one of several distinguished architects who designed Rome's Olympic Village in preparation for the 1960 games. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHTtFizUtcWT_aMwVZmdQWuAfsBUnldQ3C6BC6uyDdP4xRVmuhJ_1o8XwQb3BkHh0l8JLp9bw4pTAEkzuj1ETn21lvdUcI63LxRFB9Q7CNVVV__JLx0LEHyl2FfRiagb6fkVP_zf4RWoPt24IcqOnM2EhOpZOtx9Rmx8rSRx7mft0aZobdHE34v0_Gh3Pu/s5472/DSC09808.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHTtFizUtcWT_aMwVZmdQWuAfsBUnldQ3C6BC6uyDdP4xRVmuhJ_1o8XwQb3BkHh0l8JLp9bw4pTAEkzuj1ETn21lvdUcI63LxRFB9Q7CNVVV__JLx0LEHyl2FfRiagb6fkVP_zf4RWoPt24IcqOnM2EhOpZOtx9Rmx8rSRx7mft0aZobdHE34v0_Gh3Pu/w640-h426/DSC09808.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>The trees are larger in this 2017 photo (not good for the look of the building), and there's more foliage on the roof. <br /><p>Bill </p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-40068626613568958862023-10-17T06:20:00.007-07:002023-10-17T06:20:47.526-07:0036 Hours Around Piazza Navona<p> A friend recently asked us for suggestions of what to do around Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori. She was clear that she and her companion would be in Rome only 3 days, had seen the big sights and did not want to go back to those this time, and they did not want to do much walking. So maybe this is "36 Hours in Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori." </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We put our heads together, created a list and a map for her, and enjoyed the exercise enough that we have made it into 2 blog posts, the first on Piazza Navona and the second on the Campo. Here's our map of Piazza Navona for starters, and you'll see #1 is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers - not exactly Rome the Second Time, but a good place to begin any walking around.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnsfbW6bB2hvHZtEsEMy3FyvXDvjUtD-QkZurcVcOkTNr2E4KD7P3_sjt-Zjim2C3aYTzxosZTa0sOxjKrJt3VwfPknvrvdifkkv0QzxYNAQHlWyY7jagoCxJn4MX5nBpG5d4wc-Cx-QHrF-ogEVtf3vfh8pktqqiVya2ET9S1L5p9sh0bpnm8gRpYsyn9/s4297/P.zza%20Navona%20map.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2781" data-original-width="4297" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnsfbW6bB2hvHZtEsEMy3FyvXDvjUtD-QkZurcVcOkTNr2E4KD7P3_sjt-Zjim2C3aYTzxosZTa0sOxjKrJt3VwfPknvrvdifkkv0QzxYNAQHlWyY7jagoCxJn4MX5nBpG5d4wc-Cx-QHrF-ogEVtf3vfh8pktqqiVya2ET9S1L5p9sh0bpnm8gRpYsyn9/w640-h414/P.zza%20Navona%20map.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Below is the code we gave our friends (with a few elaborations; and note she has been a French teacher - so there are a few Francophile hints here) for our suggested meanderings in and around the piazza. Bear in mind our idiosyncrasies, and that we leave all restaurant suggestions to Katie Parla (<a href="https://katieparla.com/city-guides/rome/">https://katieparla.com/city-guides/rome/</a>)</p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Piazza
Navona and environs:<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">1.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Fountain of the 4 Rivers (<i>Fontana dei
fiumi</i> – Bernini)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;">Piazza Navona can be a magical space, especially when no one's around, like at dawn.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfSVySjK-uD99Nax2HNzK_EZD5UxV2AMXqg3SLXsIS_2VAOXvd_jjiwAdiYJlHSMyV9lgJpLtlZfLr9X8pEI4Ip_2Gq4kLwdlZ3OF0tAg8fti-j4yoPJInxhYbsyXIg7WwtPMf8ATVw6y5QBmhbKY3HloSsEWB0G_mY2MmJiDPCNOGsTl7ODnatDweFB6/s5472/DSC05879.2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfSVySjK-uD99Nax2HNzK_EZD5UxV2AMXqg3SLXsIS_2VAOXvd_jjiwAdiYJlHSMyV9lgJpLtlZfLr9X8pEI4Ip_2Gq4kLwdlZ3OF0tAg8fti-j4yoPJInxhYbsyXIg7WwtPMf8ATVw6y5QBmhbKY3HloSsEWB0G_mY2MmJiDPCNOGsTl7ODnatDweFB6/w640-h426/DSC05879.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza Navona at dawn. Borromini's Sant'Agnese in Agone (see #2, below) is at left. </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;">But not always. In 2014, we encountered Bernini's lovely fountain while city workers were repairing the stone pavement around it. And the piazza has its sometimes tawdry, commercial side. </span></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KLV3P1h_-NyRXfAUKeER3R423A6RTjTT06GLnz2-YG5ofOG83OfIgZYmJ-PuLi8cLMK-rkeaytRdO0VOpYKT4Q7ZcsQQBUXWTlHiXJQ_vRIwXIRK6uBpYkrKZo5Ja5_-AdItqC3Zk8A5vE0q15wFaFgdIhYM_Tmbphp_126m_MssmTFsRshB3dvk-bmF/s3072/IMG_4221.2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KLV3P1h_-NyRXfAUKeER3R423A6RTjTT06GLnz2-YG5ofOG83OfIgZYmJ-PuLi8cLMK-rkeaytRdO0VOpYKT4Q7ZcsQQBUXWTlHiXJQ_vRIwXIRK6uBpYkrKZo5Ja5_-AdItqC3Zk8A5vE0q15wFaFgdIhYM_Tmbphp_126m_MssmTFsRshB3dvk-bmF/s320/IMG_4221.2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlixI46KaFrvaxNZfZkFDWX1rJ-scK1EV0aLg43CxSWRec8l8FhOlOsWjFegMI6VctMSly8RZPK9IErgrnIe6nfJjOXpL-nLwLs3b7jlZhXNHGoEDcZ81qiuB54kUbIuOw068x5vP_aCeUz_frPDTZJMTnKtflBkwQAX8PH-WGwmsyGo5FTLvG3yjtHzQ/s3072/IMG_4222.2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlixI46KaFrvaxNZfZkFDWX1rJ-scK1EV0aLg43CxSWRec8l8FhOlOsWjFegMI6VctMSly8RZPK9IErgrnIe6nfJjOXpL-nLwLs3b7jlZhXNHGoEDcZ81qiuB54kUbIuOw068x5vP_aCeUz_frPDTZJMTnKtflBkwQAX8PH-WGwmsyGo5FTLvG3yjtHzQ/s320/IMG_4222.2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">2.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Sant’Agnese in Agone – (church) by Borromini<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So between #1 and #2 here you get a feel
for the great rivalry of architects/sculptors: Bernini<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- the sculptor who was an architect - and
Borromini, the architect whose architecture is sculpture. You'll have to look up for yourself the apocryphal story that one of Bernini's figures in the 4 Rivers Fountain has his head turned away so as not to see Borromini's church (the statue was erected first).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">3.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Embassy of Brazil – often has art shows
you just walk into. We like these one-off exhibits that often are open all day, are free, get you inside a classic palazzo, and often are very good - usually contemporary - art.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">4. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Palazzo Braschi – excellent museum (generally
Rome, 17<sup>th</sup> century on), sweet café – easy to walk thru – often free
shows on the ground floor – beautiful cortile - </span><a href="https://www.italofile.com/museo-di-roma-palazzo-braschi/"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">https://www.italofile.com/museo-di-roma-palazzo-braschi/</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> - this article says “best museum in
Rome you’ve never visited." Re the free shows: it was here we learned about <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2019/04/raffaele-de-vico-everywhere-but-hardly.html" target="_blank">Raffaele di Vico</a> and his extraordinary contributions to Rome's cityscape in the 20th century, and saw a moving photo/quotation exhibit of women trapped in abusive relationships. As noted, the shows are wide-ranging.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">5.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Portuguese Institute – We have been to
shows here (met the architect <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/06/eataly-opens-rome-store.html" target="_blank">Julio Lafuente one evening</a> - we are taken with his buildings), but can’t locate it nor a site for it – walking around Piazza
Navona just looking is a pleasure anyway (if you can avoid all the hawkers).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">6. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Stadio di Domiziano (Piazza Navona was built
over it) - underground archeological site – small and interesting – not sure of
opening times; sometimes has exhibits as well. This is a good way to get your ancient history fix, and to learn more about Piazza Navona - </span><a href="https://www.tripadvisor.it/Attraction_Review-g187791-d196846-Reviews-Stadio_di_Domiziano_Navona_Square_Underground-Rome_Lazio.html"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">https://www.tripadvisor.it/Attraction_Review-g187791-d196846-Reviews-Stadio_di_Domiziano_Navona_Square_Underground-Rome_Lazio.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheUN1njRHjzJMHOYMVaGuPn-e9vcZA-1TNd_cAIgccX0oN7VgJXpz7Q7_iGLfhDliXPQVB1ZgZ-N_7El4j14EHuhk51LuOS5p4WaI32CxOI52laFzBBn1Jqz5zizkiN3dH2Lr5l-U_jYuigYfFZygJm4hYZDAwRwKLERpobS5WD2Z6oAVQo6sqWRj8cX7u/s320/Tre.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheUN1njRHjzJMHOYMVaGuPn-e9vcZA-1TNd_cAIgccX0oN7VgJXpz7Q7_iGLfhDliXPQVB1ZgZ-N_7El4j14EHuhk51LuOS5p4WaI32CxOI52laFzBBn1Jqz5zizkiN3dH2Lr5l-U_jYuigYfFZygJm4hYZDAwRwKLERpobS5WD2Z6oAVQo6sqWRj8cX7u/s1600/Tre.JPG" width="320" /></a></span>7.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Tre Scalini tartufi – just go and get
one of those to split – amazing gelato dessert – make sure you go to this
corner and not across the little street to a copy cat. Tre Scalini </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">is the real deal. We wrote about the tartufo war in 2010:</span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/08/tartufo-truffle-war.html" style="font-size: 14pt;" target="_blank"> https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/08/tartufo-truffle-war.html</a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">8. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Hotel Raphael – one of the city's best rooftop bars and lobby – interesting political stories about it too – on the way to Santa Maria
della Pace and Chiostro Bramante -</span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKREYFc8hsUnSGte5gUCIwxcqBL39cNFfeB5pohqiSfbmGE7Vc6sTH9nSURWpa99MlLjxksEoGqvtoi-ZGn3K4xrtoYgl0tbB2YePNLEO4m3weOgCCP6guEqWVeh_HCR6FadxopJ_2eMpC3ca0X4gimiiRhQsm8SqnF8i_LKTYNSa6QpqxUmbR9xd9FRE/s3072/IMG_1697.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="2304" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKREYFc8hsUnSGte5gUCIwxcqBL39cNFfeB5pohqiSfbmGE7Vc6sTH9nSURWpa99MlLjxksEoGqvtoi-ZGn3K4xrtoYgl0tbB2YePNLEO4m3weOgCCP6guEqWVeh_HCR6FadxopJ_2eMpC3ca0X4gimiiRhQsm8SqnF8i_LKTYNSa6QpqxUmbR9xd9FRE/s320/IMG_1697.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The imposing exterior of the Hotel Raphael,<br />as it was 15 years ago. </td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://daphnecaruanagalizia.com/2017/04/30-april-1993-angry-crowd-throws-coins-bank-notes-bettino-craxi/"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">https://daphnecaruanagalizia.com/2017/04/30-april-1993-angry-crowd-throws-coins-bank-notes-bettino-craxi/</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span><p></p><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">9.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Chiesa di
Santa Maria della Pace – lovely, limited hours<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">10.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Bramante Chiostro
& exhibition space - </span><a href="https://www.chiostrodelbramante.it/?lang=en"><span lang="IT" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">https://www.chiostrodelbramante.it/?lang=en</span></a> <span style="font-size: 14pt;">Beautiful
cloisters and has a café, plus current show is Pistoletto –the contemporary Italian artist famed for his use of mirrors.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHnD8k0MVsHklr5aD1MrPuRD6fpbX2je2DXFJbcXRe9uU4MIAluTA9yRD-bG_S6UKcj6PIePZHoBpzxIRb5evwOtgiOvZFeBBTYuj2iBQGzJG0OTchV0UBpilFwkLX7duAvzDAvld2j2uqROYOYtRrw8uV_NPD4CgPWAbu3yFFONfU8vXAb01XD-n_smg/s200/bramante%20cortile.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="133" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHnD8k0MVsHklr5aD1MrPuRD6fpbX2je2DXFJbcXRe9uU4MIAluTA9yRD-bG_S6UKcj6PIePZHoBpzxIRb5evwOtgiOvZFeBBTYuj2iBQGzJG0OTchV0UBpilFwkLX7duAvzDAvld2j2uqROYOYtRrw8uV_NPD4CgPWAbu3yFFONfU8vXAb01XD-n_smg/w213-h320/bramante%20cortile.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bramante Cloister - can't recall the <br />name of the show but fairly<br />certain those 2 "head" sculptures<br />are by the Spanish artist Jaume Plensa<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtk2OPBCioqitDukzS3Ik1CSxwvQXk6sGDL-Z28vrEtLs6l8HOtoUaMwAaSXxt3QJhWZE_5G2kvVJXus6ARmwv5xZuXfxdRyr8HtmNLMxtQD1ZfomQZ4jYWVJ5j04DKGj8a2U64isSdlUmkIBQvc9mzcsdR69Y2fGL_X6eIor8QfqT7WiZWTirCevbf2ax/s200/pistoletto.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="133" data-original-width="200" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtk2OPBCioqitDukzS3Ik1CSxwvQXk6sGDL-Z28vrEtLs6l8HOtoUaMwAaSXxt3QJhWZE_5G2kvVJXus6ARmwv5xZuXfxdRyr8HtmNLMxtQD1ZfomQZ4jYWVJ5j04DKGj8a2U64isSdlUmkIBQvc9mzcsdR69Y2fGL_X6eIor8QfqT7WiZWTirCevbf2ax/w320-h213/pistoletto.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A work by Pistoletto--this one at the State Department.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">11. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Piazza di Pasquino – the original “talking
statue” - </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/10/pasquino-lite-romes-talking-statue-gets.html"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2012/10/pasquino-lite-romes-talking-statue-gets.html</span></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic7OREiIYM3K48UGAEvpAracN_UMi4tvCE2u2sQHY4o939NNcBUGZjc4PxX-PuPsMlMTgOSFz8R1tXxIJmgCaKGFwda6pGd45fgPd3OC8TYl4epNv1rD4gbcaAMVcx5Rt70IbH8afG0QP1C0Z9RgsuexbRSHnEF93tmPu_OL7rllfcIX6J3iEmwz3y7Lz2/s1600/1-pasquino.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1057" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic7OREiIYM3K48UGAEvpAracN_UMi4tvCE2u2sQHY4o939NNcBUGZjc4PxX-PuPsMlMTgOSFz8R1tXxIJmgCaKGFwda6pGd45fgPd3OC8TYl4epNv1rD4gbcaAMVcx5Rt70IbH8afG0QP1C0Z9RgsuexbRSHnEF93tmPu_OL7rllfcIX6J3iEmwz3y7Lz2/w264-h400/1-pasquino.JPG" width="264" /></a></div>Pasquino, right, with his messages relegated to a board next to him.<br /><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">12.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cul de </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Sac – on Piazza di Pasquino –
considered one of the best wine bars in Rome – has food – don’t go to the salad
place by mistake</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">13.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Otherwise bookshop – English one, just steps from Piazza di Pasquino<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>- on via del Governo Vecchio – nice street with boutiques, tho’ getting
a bit gentrified<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">14.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Caravaggio – San Luigi dei Francesi – 3
amazing Caravaggio paintings – the French church in Rome<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">15. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Caravaggio – Basilica di Sant’Agostino – 1
Caravaggio – and the once Papal library next door is gorgeous – worth just walking
up and looking at it (Biblioteca Angelica)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">16.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Sant’Ivo – a Borromini masterpiece
(church)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">17.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Palazzo Napoleonico -<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>interesting for its French connection </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2014/01/when-rome-was-french.html"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2014/01/when-rome-was-french.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> - it is NOT Palazzo Altieri – the
entrance to Napoleonico is on the Lungotevere.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">18.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Baracco museum – ancient sculpture – we think it’s free – we’ve never been in it!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><br /><p></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-48295697310106451302023-09-28T10:23:00.004-07:002023-09-28T10:23:54.544-07:00Life is better with a broomstick: creative solutions to appliance problems in Rome<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQKlZvp6vTLGbj3rUPiK14fhgj4LDh83UNqH5wPVKyvi1SItaNbIRW7wJ2sDCzFQwKb9zQg_ySlCQ5Wfg_tH7suOo-gGAy5-EZgWCnRuXam4nXBttI9YOmygvhcNxlBEZjCyxGDTDP4RCO87drj6F3YzJ0Gw2AfdCnMJW31WeqnSBIUZrUcH9nFReLsrK/s3465/stove.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2804" data-original-width="3465" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQKlZvp6vTLGbj3rUPiK14fhgj4LDh83UNqH5wPVKyvi1SItaNbIRW7wJ2sDCzFQwKb9zQg_ySlCQ5Wfg_tH7suOo-gGAy5-EZgWCnRuXam4nXBttI9YOmygvhcNxlBEZjCyxGDTDP4RCO87drj6F3YzJ0Gw2AfdCnMJW31WeqnSBIUZrUcH9nFReLsrK/w640-h518/stove.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Italian ingenuity often has to extend to making appliances work. Here a broom handle is used to keep the oven on.</p><p>But it wasn't the only use we found for broom handles.</p><p>Below, the only way we found to keep the washing machine door shut:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqM8AnoqZAT41CiQvrlye_Ltc6eiIsj1nrKBMgw9urFZ48rJ0V2neKwuRWr76jWwlx1ibT0Z6slUnNIRgImsyz6OYvgqZvPKjgxiCkWP0qO-MuqRdSBh3Dk1G-Qq8g2mf0uusVBFOW82oEWuUSZd5DMpgs34OPK1MktNlrSjVlStxm4TzCTx_HPxK7bLV/s3443/washing%20machine.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1864" data-original-width="3443" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqM8AnoqZAT41CiQvrlye_Ltc6eiIsj1nrKBMgw9urFZ48rJ0V2neKwuRWr76jWwlx1ibT0Z6slUnNIRgImsyz6OYvgqZvPKjgxiCkWP0qO-MuqRdSBh3Dk1G-Qq8g2mf0uusVBFOW82oEWuUSZd5DMpgs34OPK1MktNlrSjVlStxm4TzCTx_HPxK7bLV/w400-h216/washing%20machine.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Needless to say neither the stove (which was in a friend's apartment) nor the washing machine would work without these tricks.<p></p><p>And finally, maybe not crucial - unless you don't want to put dishes away with one hand while the other holds the cabinet door open - our solution to a sky drain door that wouldn't stay up:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFoZrDbF6FasnuBU1qEmWx3oeaKygCx6AlXIIAEzn2eqaIHrskcmmSpopJoTVNLgduHfUSYqVQPDpW2oXEMOP0ak5AtIgjDQM1R2WqI6V6rFL58LdQGfZT4VYrHJf3ljmG0cWHS-7LLZTt6_fyKtTG3fnEvgpwI7VRmOFJ4iT7Y9vEff_A1KxfadDFRthi/s3463/sky%20drain.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2665" data-original-width="3463" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFoZrDbF6FasnuBU1qEmWx3oeaKygCx6AlXIIAEzn2eqaIHrskcmmSpopJoTVNLgduHfUSYqVQPDpW2oXEMOP0ak5AtIgjDQM1R2WqI6V6rFL58LdQGfZT4VYrHJf3ljmG0cWHS-7LLZTt6_fyKtTG3fnEvgpwI7VRmOFJ4iT7Y9vEff_A1KxfadDFRthi/w400-h308/sky%20drain.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>We are fans of the sky drain - Italians way of drying dishes. We wish American kitchen designers would use them, though Americans are addicted to electric dishwashers.</p><p>We don't think we're dissing Italian products by saying that often design trumps utility, though these aren't the coolest designs we've seen. Just routine appliances that don't quite work.</p><p> BTW, don't expect the Airbnb host to tell you how to solve these problems - just look for the broomstick in the closet.</p><p><br /></p><p>Dianne</p><p><br /></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-37437809572456496502023-09-11T04:49:00.000-07:002023-09-11T04:49:16.625-07:00A statue of Carabinieri leads to the question: What was the role of this national armed force under Fascism?<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-vv9ZU4SxcShD3vz3j49cF2Ur1tHaT8HbyhodPbCK4nLUhQYYPNRgDcI_LwrS5BeXrdOQid50JVmb7FstC6ZqL-UJu4Wi48NvhbVaadbQzZbDVVUsA_Xb1AYA84MjmuqgxoYBxNroQqARMHFf_DzpmgAx5InzLxSZRnFdanzC23ZXJLvQMYl0yVSuoT6e/s5472/statues%20in%20quirinale%20park%201%204.10.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-vv9ZU4SxcShD3vz3j49cF2Ur1tHaT8HbyhodPbCK4nLUhQYYPNRgDcI_LwrS5BeXrdOQid50JVmb7FstC6ZqL-UJu4Wi48NvhbVaadbQzZbDVVUsA_Xb1AYA84MjmuqgxoYBxNroQqARMHFf_DzpmgAx5InzLxSZRnFdanzC23ZXJLvQMYl0yVSuoT6e/w426-h640/statues%20in%20quirinale%20park%201%204.10.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>La pattuglia nella tempesta.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>One of the rabbit holes we went down this year started on the day we flew into Rome and wandered into the park across from Palazzo del Quirinale while waiting for the time on our timed tickets for the Scuderie exhibition (more on that exhibition in a future post). The park's center has a statue of Carlo Alberto, father of Vittorio Emanuele II, the first King of a united Italy in the 1860s. But that's a traditional equestrian statue. We gravitated instead to a statue of two figures, on the back side of the park, and seemingly "lost" on the park grounds. Italians no doubt recognize the flowing capes and (what I now know are called) bicorn hats, but we didn't. After much Google sleuthing, we discovered these figures represent Carabinieri from 1814, when they were formed as the King's police. The statue - from 2014 - celebrates the national police force's bicentennial. </p><p>By Florentine sculptor<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonio_Berti_(sculptor)" target="_blank"> Antonio Berti </a>(1904-1990), the statue is, in our minds, a gem. It's titled "<i>La pattuglia nella tempesta</i>" - "The patrol in the storm," and is designed to show the Carabinieri - off their horses (or these days, out of their cars), in any weather, helping their countrymen and women. I love those flowing capes. There's something about the work that reminds me of Rodin's Balzac, though I'm probably getting carried away here.</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJo11AkQL2mwpHfsPAF_rZgLMr6Gohwcplgx_FRDcxCeDSHe63NF9eGTselvzZsCtuqJ2nia1h-n1HJBX3gsWGVY2sMojuDML5_yslOpQ59M7UIGTCx5zvm777JH-OCeBYVjO1CAwrBJJrblSaVsNVMRL95cw8RLe_hfzfUUwfaO53699tsGK2JmAY1nZ/s5226/museo%20exterior.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5226" data-original-width="3211" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJo11AkQL2mwpHfsPAF_rZgLMr6Gohwcplgx_FRDcxCeDSHe63NF9eGTselvzZsCtuqJ2nia1h-n1HJBX3gsWGVY2sMojuDML5_yslOpQ59M7UIGTCx5zvm777JH-OCeBYVjO1CAwrBJJrblSaVsNVMRL95cw8RLe_hfzfUUwfaO53699tsGK2JmAY1nZ/s320/museo%20exterior.JPG" width="197" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Outside the museum. The tourists<br />don't even look at it.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>And now the rabbit hole. In trying to find the subject and name of the statue, I ran across an article titled "Italian policemen and fascist ideology," by Dr. Jonathan Dunnage of Swansea University in the UK. Many Italians look at the Carabinieri and Fascists this way: they were the King's police force. The King was a Fascist; the Carabinieri supported the King. When the King separated himself from Mussolini, so did they. Kind of "just doing their job." </p><p>Dunnage is more critical. In a summary of his article, he states, "There is little doubt that, without undergoing dramatic transformations, the Italian Interior Ministry police and <i>Carabinieri</i> played key roles in the enforcement of the fascist dictatorship." This summary focuses on the police, rather than on the Carabinieri, and, arguably, the Carabinieri were more independent. I contacted Dunnage, who was kind enough to exchange emails with me. In a response to me, he contends, <span style="font-family: inherit;">"<span style="background-color: white;">On the other hand, both police organizations would have been grateful for a government which claimed to restore respect for the law (and for the institutions of law and order) following the 'humiliations' of the 'Red Two Years' (1919-1920)." [Elaboration by Dunnage on this theme is at the end of this post.]</span></span></p><p>The statue, Dunnage's comments, and a lunch with two Roman friends convinced us to return to the Carabinieri Museum (<i>Museo storico dell'Arma dei Carabinieri</i>) in Piazza del Risorgimento (where most folks are heading in droves to the Vatican). We had been there previously, for <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2016/06/italys-elite-art-theft-discovery-squad.html" target="_blank">a press conference announcing the recovery of stolen art</a> works (the Carabinieri have an art recovery section). Our lunch companions told us the museum had been reorganized and modernized (it needed it; all material was only in Italian, for starters), and that a relative of one of them, a retired Carabiniere, had designed the new exhibition. We couldn't wait to go back.</p><p>We found the first floor, in particular, much better organized, and with all placards in both Italian and English. Paintings, more than photographs, illustrated the Carabinieris' bravery. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7djYlg62Gq59ndySLAuHfJFY9xDIk8kH0-ZSMRzdjCvHQ_ucbAT9kXCRtsUBKDhkUsomSqTnuA6jqOcbQBwnLtzUTzYCB6iUjn58kNRG565r4QxVWpYRtM6dKqDlrC4ArVHFRr3zzvdE7sPZmq0typCixqtv9n6e0isEhUoo617WOeUak403K7-VxlYo/s4785/barmash%20hero.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4785" data-original-width="3583" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7djYlg62Gq59ndySLAuHfJFY9xDIk8kH0-ZSMRzdjCvHQ_ucbAT9kXCRtsUBKDhkUsomSqTnuA6jqOcbQBwnLtzUTzYCB6iUjn58kNRG565r4QxVWpYRtM6dKqDlrC4ArVHFRr3zzvdE7sPZmq0typCixqtv9n6e0isEhUoo617WOeUak403K7-VxlYo/s320/barmash%20hero.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><i>The Carabiniere at left was serving in the Barmash (Albania) Carabinieri Station when it was attacked "On December 28, 1942...by overwhelming enemy forces, which he resisted heartily. Once the ammunition ran out, he did not give up, but with hand grenades faced the enemy together with [another Carabiniere], who fell with him." Note, no mention of who the enemy is.</i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><br /></p><p>Looking at the historical panorama that covers the Fascist <i>ventennio</i> (20+ years), one can see a sort of amnesia:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJT3ywozTM_08yNp56YD2trKrz_28AwdCAbCi3yGJQ9RbhiyzX9RMgYnjGrzuGz45PRwDMZ4rh-MCXw-y2FaQ_UBaMUBn6gNzq91xFBPmyEv1ep5fNxWkpDp7BcFSESkLAwOcFsW5YwaqyqUFPYk_nAYyZs6Z4S4qKIkUNsh2N_y4N1DH243b2qCLrcG1/s4336/1922%20to%201942.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1837" data-original-width="4336" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJT3ywozTM_08yNp56YD2trKrz_28AwdCAbCi3yGJQ9RbhiyzX9RMgYnjGrzuGz45PRwDMZ4rh-MCXw-y2FaQ_UBaMUBn6gNzq91xFBPmyEv1ep5fNxWkpDp7BcFSESkLAwOcFsW5YwaqyqUFPYk_nAYyZs6Z4S4qKIkUNsh2N_y4N1DH243b2qCLrcG1/w640-h272/1922%20to%201942.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The dates are, left to right, 1922, 1936, 1941, 1942. The painting above 1942 is the painting above in this post of the Carabiniere in Albania.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br />There are pictures and stories of the Italian African campaign, in which the Carabinieri figured prominently, and of battles raged against "brigands" in Sicily and elsewhere. Nothing about Fascists, Mussolini, or fighting for the State against partisans in Italy. The second floor is laid out similarly, although the English translators haven't yet made it to that floor. There, under 1928, is an illustration of the Carabinieri fighting Sicilian brigands; under 1936, a battle in Somalia. <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_nYMSZ3Be16FbQ5XINvu81LcCxgswaQ4n4FQ2oLJqdlz2Pc418E8CTbcZj2EbyLwO52Nmd_NS4RhHGspjyRdJ9KwLADeXV30rQJL3DornO8VNa0fuDzkaF1VPOMKVL4QQQIV9yaqvB2XDIksbldmq_SeU2pTdSYq3TMXKeze6yq0-2K8pB8Ns6Pua6OAJ/s5472/battle%20of%20culuquar.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_nYMSZ3Be16FbQ5XINvu81LcCxgswaQ4n4FQ2oLJqdlz2Pc418E8CTbcZj2EbyLwO52Nmd_NS4RhHGspjyRdJ9KwLADeXV30rQJL3DornO8VNa0fuDzkaF1VPOMKVL4QQQIV9yaqvB2XDIksbldmq_SeU2pTdSYq3TMXKeze6yq0-2K8pB8Ns6Pua6OAJ/w640-h426/battle%20of%20culuquar.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Above, one of the more interesting paintings, of the Battle of Culqualber, which lasted from August to November 1941 in Ethiopia ("Italian East Africa"), and is considered the end of the the war in East Africa for the Italians. Carabinieri and colonial forces fought the British Commonwealth forces there.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><div>The only place we saw any reference to Mussolini or Fascism was in the collection of annual calendars, and even then the one with Mussolini on the cover was high up on the wall and difficult to photograph; one has to recognize his profile - which any Italian would:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5OAsxuVXjcIQufnX1tPIGOFRgqck1KogS93p7coIweAWjLTNCUEnSJHMrF3wPs3XRSsnh1nJ4pu8Mw-ddZZh7lodYDZEl14tSq3tUx2rITrzlak_t-7szcznwMW4WfATifG3tUMCgiV8ihDKe4vXW9jRLyC2Zr4rZ7xer9nvF1FzWiNnBvMk-HbC7KgIt/s4583/journals.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3568" data-original-width="4583" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5OAsxuVXjcIQufnX1tPIGOFRgqck1KogS93p7coIweAWjLTNCUEnSJHMrF3wPs3XRSsnh1nJ4pu8Mw-ddZZh7lodYDZEl14tSq3tUx2rITrzlak_t-7szcznwMW4WfATifG3tUMCgiV8ihDKe4vXW9jRLyC2Zr4rZ7xer9nvF1FzWiNnBvMk-HbC7KgIt/s320/journals.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>All of the calendars in the Fascist era use the Fascist<br />numbering system. Mussolini is on the cover second from<br />left, middle row, year 1939, XVII E.F. (17, Fascist Era,<br />i.e., 17 years after the 1922 March on Rome).</i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div>The online site for the museum is filled with information. And if one searches for Mussolini or Fascism, there are many citations. Among them is the intriguingly titled <a href="https://www.carabinieri.it/bkcarabiniere/anno-2004/agosto-settembre/militaria/i-carabinieri-nel-novecento-italiano---32---la-fine-delle-illusioni" target="_blank">"<i>I Carabinieri nel novecento italiano - la fine delle illusioni</i>"</a> ("The Carabinieri in 1900s Italy: the end of illusions"). The post has a good summary of Italy at the end of the Fascist era, but nothing about the Carabinieri in that period. And so it goes with the other entries in which Fascism is mentioned.</div><div><br /></div><div>With the year 1943, the panels change dramatically to the Carabinieri fighting <u>against the Nazis</u> as part of the Resistance. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVsRumkCAtQvWyrmLyM_VLFknVLeAZT-S5ZWO4MUp_O8OmAHLOREva88ZhBZNYgFBF2hgP0yLT8rZKF0TvEOid_geeacOg8xNcBfaNq4tyW_zfDQLJKmUDupv2rILSnGOxfyjfjBZHGeWn3WgJ_efXptYEI1sTt6C1T8Go1yj_NgnQvjtXuKYu39Q4Gx2H/s3760/trampling%20nazi%20flag.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3760" data-original-width="2873" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVsRumkCAtQvWyrmLyM_VLFknVLeAZT-S5ZWO4MUp_O8OmAHLOREva88ZhBZNYgFBF2hgP0yLT8rZKF0TvEOid_geeacOg8xNcBfaNq4tyW_zfDQLJKmUDupv2rILSnGOxfyjfjBZHGeWn3WgJ_efXptYEI1sTt6C1T8Go1yj_NgnQvjtXuKYu39Q4Gx2H/s320/trampling%20nazi%20flag.JPG" width="245" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><i>Right, a Carabiniere in Greece, </i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i>trampling the Nazi flag and </i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i>raising the Italian one.</i></div><div><div style="text-align: right;"><br /></div><div><br /><p><br /></p><p>There's no doubt many Carabinieri were significant in the Resistance to the Nazis, <b>after</b> the King abandoned Mussolini.</p><p>Some were shot by the Germans, and 12 were murdered in the massacre at the Fosse Ardeatine outside Rome (on an itinerary in our first book on Rome, <i>Rome the Second Time</i>). A monument to the 12 is in the museum:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFIQ3VYQhxMKDhIo-JWl_cHa3CF2lIIwULTVCweXQfEAeZLnWK2DI8jTneLh9Z7MPZrDgUi0cCmnHqOIrdPGD7m6EYzS57vOEk5bL1BUWziirMaevi-U-qj0niFFFqVxvbzS8hpCcvtAIqC_jS5IJsQuemwdsin8FAn0ObKjzOMse_G5Fr-F0iWQ6vuX9/s5373/fosse%20ard%20monument.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5373" data-original-width="2225" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFIQ3VYQhxMKDhIo-JWl_cHa3CF2lIIwULTVCweXQfEAeZLnWK2DI8jTneLh9Z7MPZrDgUi0cCmnHqOIrdPGD7m6EYzS57vOEk5bL1BUWziirMaevi-U-qj0niFFFqVxvbzS8hpCcvtAIqC_jS5IJsQuemwdsin8FAn0ObKjzOMse_G5Fr-F0iWQ6vuX9/w133-h320/fosse%20ard%20monument.JPG" width="133" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The exhibitions bring the Carabinieri into the 1970s and 1980s, with their efforts to combat the Red Brigades (<i>Brigate Rosse</i>), who assassinated politician and statesman Aldo Moro. In the panels below, his portrait is labeled "'78" - the year he was killed. "'83" is a painting depicting the Carabinieri, led by Mario D'Aleo, who were ambushed and killed in Sicily by the Mafia that year.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbZkogTeGG8_OQPx7ImxP27ihxkdliRM26Datg93nxEERCt9nHVITYgG4beRCSsc6o2v1-7Ntqqx8SCnzZjgmt3FANRAbWiBjtg-no9aVy27dx876dJn6HFOq1oVNzlXNQIkyD-8ix2BYbTN7jqHp8AF_Dnq2X5mR0F8yar6s0S8b4KDNL0ejEBURU8Po/s5161/70s%20to%2006.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3300" data-original-width="5161" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbZkogTeGG8_OQPx7ImxP27ihxkdliRM26Datg93nxEERCt9nHVITYgG4beRCSsc6o2v1-7Ntqqx8SCnzZjgmt3FANRAbWiBjtg-no9aVy27dx876dJn6HFOq1oVNzlXNQIkyD-8ix2BYbTN7jqHp8AF_Dnq2X5mR0F8yar6s0S8b4KDNL0ejEBURU8Po/w640-h410/70s%20to%2006.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />There are also some "fun facts" in the museum, including posters of movies featuring Carabinieri.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiobEuUoSNFpZWORMuzlr1gzmyEOzIBZrCuDUzRlgRGCC-LJjsIEsX7Oa_0wJuB1J-lg0s3pFuO3fsRRlRZthUYoUHKSEAOxUT3KMS3_1SpSKFwPG6JK1Oja-i2K9Z32pkRCXMKlyDSOnpxiB7UMt7D-kW8cYs5rYGwc9PTNpZh_LRnr4HktFbFejRkLsk_/s4732/film%20pane%20amore.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4732" data-original-width="2993" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiobEuUoSNFpZWORMuzlr1gzmyEOzIBZrCuDUzRlgRGCC-LJjsIEsX7Oa_0wJuB1J-lg0s3pFuO3fsRRlRZthUYoUHKSEAOxUT3KMS3_1SpSKFwPG6JK1Oja-i2K9Z32pkRCXMKlyDSOnpxiB7UMt7D-kW8cYs5rYGwc9PTNpZh_LRnr4HktFbFejRkLsk_/s320/film%20pane%20amore.JPG" width="202" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><br /></i></div><i><div style="text-align: right;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i>Right, the beloved "Pane, Amore e Fantasia" </i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i>(In English, "Bread, Love and Dreams"), </i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i>starring Vittorio De Sica and Gina Lollobrigida.</i></div></i><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>And our museum tour ended where it began, with our rabbit hole. An entire corner and display is devoted to the statue of <i>La pattuglia nella tempesta</i>, which is popular enough that one can buy small replicas of it, as in, Exit through the Gift Shop.</p><p>Dianne [see more from Jonathan Dunnage below the photo]</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TghTlq65TPXDivwwXiGS-r9y-xaZvtSu32Oc3jAa8dRlZj1zzZJyE3TRf6YXy37LkfO_N8b6xgr6z8UFdsIM7YtcvD1194CmU56sUaqTeO68TbxrmXmMX1MYWCe6UzaEJjz2G2MyqzqKFBzCWBQfmqlT0olaSNw8mua7RjqNaouvxt6DDgR42fGARaUN/s4481/panel%20to%20pattuglia.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3632" data-original-width="4481" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TghTlq65TPXDivwwXiGS-r9y-xaZvtSu32Oc3jAa8dRlZj1zzZJyE3TRf6YXy37LkfO_N8b6xgr6z8UFdsIM7YtcvD1194CmU56sUaqTeO68TbxrmXmMX1MYWCe6UzaEJjz2G2MyqzqKFBzCWBQfmqlT0olaSNw8mua7RjqNaouvxt6DDgR42fGARaUN/w640-h518/panel%20to%20pattuglia.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Here is Jonathan Dunnage's more complete response (in an email to me) to the argument that the Carabinieri weren't at heart Fascists:</p><p><span class="im" style="color: #500050;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: white; color: #500050; display: inline; float: none; font-size: small; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></span></span></p><div style="color: black; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">It has been argued that the Carabinieri were less complicit with the fascist regime because of their loyalty to the monarchy, as a result of which Mussolini decided to entrust policing and surveillance first and foremost to the Interior Ministry police. However, if you consider that the Carabinieri were answerable to the Interior Ministry for matters of policing, and if you look at daily policing activities on the ground, it is obvious that the Carabinieri were complicit, even if their position was secondary to that of the Interior Ministry police. Despite formal adhesion to the regime, as evident in public ceremonies, it has been suggested that the Carabinieri managed to maintain a degree of aloofness. On the other hand, both police organizations would have been grateful for a government which claimed to restore respect for the law (and for the institutions of law and order) following the 'humiliations' of the 'Red Two Years' (1919-1920). Members of the police and the Carabinieri, whether or not they were staunch fascists, had historically been accustomed to seeing the forces of the Left as dangerous for public order, and one can imagine that many saw the fascist regime as enabling them to do their job of 'protecting' Italian society from anarchists, socialists and communists, when the preceding Liberal governments had appeared hesitant (i.e. for fear of infringing citizens' democratic rights).</div></div></div></div></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-82945916271339558842023-07-21T08:45:00.004-07:002023-08-05T09:38:02.991-07:00Barbie Has No Knees (and Superman has no genitals): Reflecting on the historical significance of the iconic doll through an exhibit at the Vittoriano<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i>With Greta Gerwig's "Barbie" scheduled to open tonight in theaters, well, everywhere, we are re-posting Bill's 2016 post below, which is chock-full of historical cultural analysis as well as photos of some of the many Barbies we saw at the exhibit. Yeah, go to Rome and see Barbies! We loved it. (Review here: <a href="https://www.2filmcritics.com/post/barbie">https://www.2filmcritics.com/post/barbie</a>)</i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sign for the Barbie exhibit in the Vittoriano - which features a permanent exhibit of The Risorgimento -<br />
Italy's battle for statehood. Interesting contrast of Barbie and Garibaldi.</td></tr>
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It was 1959 when the first Barbie appeared. A bit late, it would seem, to catch the wave of conservatism, conformity and consensus that hung over the American nation through much of the postwar era. When Barbie went on sale, the civil rights movement was well under way, with lunch-counter sit-ins to begin in 1960. Just two years later, Tom Hayden launched the student protest movement with the <i>Port Huron Statement</i> and Betty Friedan rang the opening bell for the latest version of feminism with her book, <i>The Feminine Mystique</i>. By 1965 U.S. bombers were pounding North Vietnam. Barbie should never have survived "the '60s." But she did. The "Barbie" exhibit at Rome's Complesso del Vittoriano provides some explanations for Barbie's longevity. One is that Barbie was a well-made and beautifully dressed creature, her every incarnation<br />
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a fine-tuned fashion statement. Having never had a Barbie (I was 16 when she made her debut, and a boy), and having decided that the exhibit was one I hardly cared to see, I was impressed--astounded even--at the "look" of the hundreds of Barbies on display: style, color, elegance, precision, all in abundance.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right, Barbie as bullfighter. Left,<br />
hipster exec</td></tr>
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Clearly, too, Barbie was flexible, especially in relationship to the burgeoning feminist movement. Barbie could be teen model, a housewife and homemaker, or a stewardess, but over the years she tracked American women as they took on a wider variety of occupations and pursuits--some 180 occupations in all. Barbie became a pilot, a no-nonsense professional, an astronaut, an eco-friendly architect, a race car driver, a hard rock musician, even a bullfighter, albeit a stylish one. <br />
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Barbie's facial expression changed, too, perhaps most famously in the 1970s, when Barbie came to look a bit like Farrah Fawcett, the star of the popular TV series, <i>Charlie's Angels. </i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o6lHYGVMsi8/V3xf66IW22I/AAAAAAAAK3g/s4jWqVqEIm0-Vv_09V7_VmUuE0iitBMogCKgB/s1600/DSC00867.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o6lHYGVMsi8/V3xf66IW22I/AAAAAAAAK3g/s4jWqVqEIm0-Vv_09V7_VmUuE0iitBMogCKgB/s320/DSC00867.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barbie as Hitchcock's Tippi, attacked<br />
by birds</td></tr>
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Other Barbies were modeled after celebrities. among them Twiggy, Audrey Hepburn, Madonna, Tippi Hedren (in Hitchcock's <i>The Birds</i>), Shakira, Jennifer Lopez, and Elvis, Barbie could be the Statue of Liberty, too. <br />
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And after 1980, Barbie's look had much to do with multiculturalism and globalization. (See the African Barbie at the end of this post). Even so, the curators of the exhibit go too far in claiming that Barbie was on the cutting edge of political and social change. The first black Barbie appeared in 1980, 12 years after the March on Washington, 16 years after the 1964 Civil Rights Act prohibited racial discrimination in public accommodations such as restaurants and hotels, and 26 years after the Supreme Court declared school segregation unconstitutional. In the racial arena, at least, Barbie was a follower, not a leader. <br />
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Nonetheless, as a cultural historian, I enjoyed the curators' efforts to link the evolving Barbie with historical movements and trends, from feminism to globalization to the emergence of a culture of celebrity. However, I must admit that my first reaction to Barbie had to do with her physique, and not just her thin-ness. Indeed, my first thought--and first words in the exhibit--was "<b>Barbie has no knees</b>." It occurred to me, then, that Barbie was knee-less because the knee is the least attractive part of the leg; knees have bumps and lumps and stick out here and there. <br />
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interrupting the attractive flow of the woman's leg from thigh to calf to ankle (admittedly, also somewhat knobby--as it turns out, Barbie doesn't have ankles, either). <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No genitals. Could be model for<br />
Superman Barbie</td></tr>
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I'm writing this today because this morning's <i>New York Times</i> carried an obituary for Noel Neill, the actress who played Lois Lane on the <i>Adventures of Superman</i> TV series. In the accompanying photo, Superman (Steve Reeves) demonstrates his strength by holding Miss Lane off the ground with one arm. Then I noticed that <b>Superman</b> <b>has no genitals</b>. <br />
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Bill<br />
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The exhibit closes October 10. It's not cheap: Euro 12 or, if you qualify for a reduction, Euro 10. Most of the hundreds of Barbies in the exhibition come from 2 major Italian collections.<br />
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<br />Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-36574868611773083572023-07-11T19:29:00.000-07:002023-07-11T19:29:28.195-07:00Quarticciolo: A Visit to Rome's Working-Class Periphery <p>We knew almost nothing about the quartiere of Quarticciolo when we spent a couple of hours there this Spring, except that it was a working-class enclave with a leftist reputation. It's located on Rome's periphery, a third or fourth-tier suburb east of the city center, not far from the GRA that encircles the city, and bounded on the west by a quasi-highway, viale Palmiro Togliatti. Coming from the center on via Prenestina, we turned right on the first street after viale Togliatti and parked the scooter, just a few feet from what appeared to be an abandoned "<i>ape</i>" (a small, three-wheeled truck) and amid the first of many low-rise apartment buildings. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3tH0Eya_lRpFEL9CaoH0MQhTK-3qwNj8RY_o2NGQV3101sv6G57zbglPBRKbZ2tgZ_5lY0rWPPsM8aBXYEXttWmSJBR0Pdj5soT7XqVTUj-8R2w38041woVzEayOUWTRgMU5dpGfS20utKsVi0JKaC1ziCoCXfluMOjTFTMu7t-wbQl8t442EQE8fbA/s5472/DSC04270.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3tH0Eya_lRpFEL9CaoH0MQhTK-3qwNj8RY_o2NGQV3101sv6G57zbglPBRKbZ2tgZ_5lY0rWPPsM8aBXYEXttWmSJBR0Pdj5soT7XqVTUj-8R2w38041woVzEayOUWTRgMU5dpGfS20utKsVi0JKaC1ziCoCXfluMOjTFTMu7t-wbQl8t442EQE8fbA/s320/DSC04270.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Across the street was a church (completed in 1954) and down the way, built into one of the apartment buildings, a substantial altar to the Virgin Mary, constructed in 1950. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAwnMGttdlHCZpHVhdGjUPYYRnKR0dIr7vM1xJ0lqhVj3pTMbioL8F3pZ2_NlvRRiaOvtmeHR9FdoY4eCZKVi1zKpcSA1ZKQRXMRBO6G0Cp9vTRxoKx3djHw1nFZK-iPz6AM0YJWsIblwGVuO9xuuzaxyxnSHrBPQbL_aM3QiAsMJiXbC2rmwmxTyhog/s5472/DSC04200.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAwnMGttdlHCZpHVhdGjUPYYRnKR0dIr7vM1xJ0lqhVj3pTMbioL8F3pZ2_NlvRRiaOvtmeHR9FdoY4eCZKVi1zKpcSA1ZKQRXMRBO6G0Cp9vTRxoKx3djHw1nFZK-iPz6AM0YJWsIblwGVuO9xuuzaxyxnSHrBPQbL_aM3QiAsMJiXbC2rmwmxTyhog/w266-h400/DSC04200.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><p>Quarticciolo has been described as the last of the "<i>borgate</i>" (towns or "working-class suburbs") constructed by the Fascist regime. The first buildings--all of Quarticciolo was, and probably still is, "public" housing--were erected between 1941 and 1943, during the war. The units were intended for very large families. The first 300 apartments were designed for families with at least 7 children, and the next 100 were for those with 4 or 5 kids--depending on need, part of the Fascist encouragement of large families.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbozOl1fSMn84h2hx0SkXP5cK9U0wbk3acDgjeVV3GaV1NdS5JR6x1XoOoCHgrMVoKg3L4YLWmCgH3k2H_1RYDIiMEzx2qiJizifjOzqMsjIX5Y41hJrJdxBIcbQaHcZAxsF_OvQHSU87UgB2wq6oBSz1BZDDc3Mq55ISPawZCeW1uRg3433oq4aSxg/s5472/DSC04201.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbozOl1fSMn84h2hx0SkXP5cK9U0wbk3acDgjeVV3GaV1NdS5JR6x1XoOoCHgrMVoKg3L4YLWmCgH3k2H_1RYDIiMEzx2qiJizifjOzqMsjIX5Y41hJrJdxBIcbQaHcZAxsF_OvQHSU87UgB2wq6oBSz1BZDDc3Mq55ISPawZCeW1uRg3433oq4aSxg/w640-h426/DSC04201.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8wrc3v3CK5Zti000wdGYBTempqBFnPGgQAKZSIVcCNWMGltiTZDsl5yhsSTnZDSygcaCotnh8c4rR3Pq5UfCC9UP2I8X3FKVwaUhCQVyGz1GcpNvHjuDWx4Iw_GlrqIWRxmlj7VyZQ8jvIWmdgABy2F3ya3ay8zDl6FU7lzQS_-BCU_cXhR93H5Ra5g/s5472/DSC04237.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8wrc3v3CK5Zti000wdGYBTempqBFnPGgQAKZSIVcCNWMGltiTZDsl5yhsSTnZDSygcaCotnh8c4rR3Pq5UfCC9UP2I8X3FKVwaUhCQVyGz1GcpNvHjuDWx4Iw_GlrqIWRxmlj7VyZQ8jvIWmdgABy2F3ya3ay8zDl6FU7lzQS_-BCU_cXhR93H5Ra5g/w640-h426/DSC04237.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>The north end of the community, where we began our trek, is now the site of a large chain grocery store (and other stores); the basic apartment buildings were not designed for "mixed use." It also has a recently built community sports center ("From the Borgata, for the Borgata," reads the lettering at the top of the building below, an interesting pride in the term "<i>borgata</i>").</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7SDjwcl4xP4oROwrwro-XCAKDte3gBNxH5sNwx0IrlAQMEzyfo_4vLwLg2csnGjzPAyCj4cKXJa3-7UVwJgJ2moeYhzno7DatjnL7JlqsJAaeb8CRQH4M6zXZmUw8JA6ByKgGt_yeUtFJN6PmQ4_FZCgtckZkkAeHbe5ad4nLqhYmvMCbT-W_7nK7GA/s5472/DSC04253.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7SDjwcl4xP4oROwrwro-XCAKDte3gBNxH5sNwx0IrlAQMEzyfo_4vLwLg2csnGjzPAyCj4cKXJa3-7UVwJgJ2moeYhzno7DatjnL7JlqsJAaeb8CRQH4M6zXZmUw8JA6ByKgGt_yeUtFJN6PmQ4_FZCgtckZkkAeHbe5ad4nLqhYmvMCbT-W_7nK7GA/w640-h426/DSC04253.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Moving along via Alessandrina into the center of Quarticciolo, we came upon what appeared to be a multi-story city hall (although not marked as such)/community center, covered with graffiti and other materials that revealed much about the <i>quartiere</i>. Along one wall, large graffiti letters "<i>Essere un comitato e' prendersi cura della borgata</i>" (to be a committee--the common council, one presumes--means taking care of the town). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiauMJAl_ESdUgJYLGygi1CtYLDR3L9BHRUpAhhJBSfJtv2tx1-XU8GCL3RLJ2dibnL9RLn5cmlCJALCdVVOqOyDIMx9OZv2oxXvkXro9WvnqrpfWS2Z0opt5tZA8ODSqKQjribj0LT7JdmYbAKs4lWBfrtIGCKTzbcwFWN90MTJHGlsf-27VJmrbsQ/s5472/DSC04233.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiauMJAl_ESdUgJYLGygi1CtYLDR3L9BHRUpAhhJBSfJtv2tx1-XU8GCL3RLJ2dibnL9RLn5cmlCJALCdVVOqOyDIMx9OZv2oxXvkXro9WvnqrpfWS2Z0opt5tZA8ODSqKQjribj0LT7JdmYbAKs4lWBfrtIGCKTzbcwFWN90MTJHGlsf-27VJmrbsQ/w640-h426/DSC04233.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>A plaque (far left in the above photo), placed on the building in 2010, honors the anti-Fascist partisans of Quarticciolo who resisted the German occupation of 1943-1944. Quarticciolo was one of several communities, moving east from the center, that were prominent in the resistance to Nazi occupation; they included <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2014/05/world-war-ii-german-round-up-remembered.html" target="_blank">Quadraro</a>, <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2016/04/the-pleasures-of-tor-pignattara-gallery.htmlhttps://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2016/04/the-pleasures-of-tor-pignattara-gallery.html" target="_blank">Torpignattara</a>, and <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/08/centocelle-romes-new-rochelle.html" target="_blank">Centocelle</a> (all of which we've written about many times; one post is linked here to each community). </p><p>In the rear of the building, a line drawing appears to show a rapacious capitalist with little regard for needs of the ordinary people. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEive7zAR6uTPyTDMXsdQl2nc_sFNoQiKo-lRV9zsJ-GnqT-FW14KHQaR-GosGSoez0xQJkWYJ0sqQdmo3bE_fCUdhto92CKSM1siL0ejuaXE4Vh0OUDA8BmQNXuIFyy3Z6uc23c1XWj_LobLo6qQe4UjArvflSocyIDdRBTDwABQXYvzY2AkDetIVkoOg/s5472/DSC04220.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEive7zAR6uTPyTDMXsdQl2nc_sFNoQiKo-lRV9zsJ-GnqT-FW14KHQaR-GosGSoez0xQJkWYJ0sqQdmo3bE_fCUdhto92CKSM1siL0ejuaXE4Vh0OUDA8BmQNXuIFyy3Z6uc23c1XWj_LobLo6qQe4UjArvflSocyIDdRBTDwABQXYvzY2AkDetIVkoOg/w400-h266/DSC04220.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p>The rear façade is decorated with two multi-story figures. Not sure what they are supposed to represent.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjow3iFdZJ256jOEXe9-iffiMJYM6bk1SnJZrWgLnMpzI_MSvbMWhfEsISnIRVVnzmFhQpwK0C7qSqF2j8J7agkYYQc68rgJDnYo6-IqwtKuC9pK5GpVP6ZkTEFeYMmewhFi8LpEsAqKsIGKPXSFMcqFEHKz33X2B2PqOFlWRWd7zFd8g7XQoZACDY1Zg/s5472/DSC04210.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjow3iFdZJ256jOEXe9-iffiMJYM6bk1SnJZrWgLnMpzI_MSvbMWhfEsISnIRVVnzmFhQpwK0C7qSqF2j8J7agkYYQc68rgJDnYo6-IqwtKuC9pK5GpVP6ZkTEFeYMmewhFi8LpEsAqKsIGKPXSFMcqFEHKz33X2B2PqOFlWRWd7zFd8g7XQoZACDY1Zg/w426-h640/DSC04210.2.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><p>And a sign proclaims "<i>Insieme Tutto E' Possibile</i>" (together, everything is possible), more evidence of a desire for community solidarity (it's signed "<i>Quarticciolo Ribelle</i>" [Quarticciolo Rebel]. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2yY4BQapmJw_ZPyl0mqUdhHyQnadsMv9hmRmStjcoH3FehCfPCiy3vv-H0g9ommEZ73FSwLodngtdYn47b24HpWUw2o5rn6-JejIeansM9hS3-PwlPaRZYsf7ZhFj64JiCn7hWPnW1yjPkcHopBUlEQ87aJcTqlVZzmWEbk44YB0QVUBqQ29kIHK9hA/s5472/DSC04221.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2yY4BQapmJw_ZPyl0mqUdhHyQnadsMv9hmRmStjcoH3FehCfPCiy3vv-H0g9ommEZ73FSwLodngtdYn47b24HpWUw2o5rn6-JejIeansM9hS3-PwlPaRZYsf7ZhFj64JiCn7hWPnW1yjPkcHopBUlEQ87aJcTqlVZzmWEbk44YB0QVUBqQ29kIHK9hA/s320/DSC04221.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Both sides of the building feature a rich variety of graffiti, old and new. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit0w_D4TksKNXWvKIdChrOrZ6hVwjTSXsZdRKIHfIXdnk_fqg5mEqXwIwQQHdrLpeSUrVRq9AdI8Tdffq8yz9jru3BxxjHQklN5v07qaK6rJX4if8p4pb6S_GoiDCo_HRcSBIQ9SEZ_wTc5N4mtmpMs3i2nBEA2SNXePlCG_1xz07JfbBoo8Gk4jQOkg/s5472/DSC04203.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit0w_D4TksKNXWvKIdChrOrZ6hVwjTSXsZdRKIHfIXdnk_fqg5mEqXwIwQQHdrLpeSUrVRq9AdI8Tdffq8yz9jru3BxxjHQklN5v07qaK6rJX4if8p4pb6S_GoiDCo_HRcSBIQ9SEZ_wTc5N4mtmpMs3i2nBEA2SNXePlCG_1xz07JfbBoo8Gk4jQOkg/s320/DSC04203.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Across the street from the community center (maybe the municipal hall) we were surprised to see a theater and library. Although the building has some 1960-era features, it was constructed quite recently, apparently in 2007, on the site of a public market (probably the victim of the supermarket).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNIRyd2SBys5rMItHdo4HsN_gOEWjrZNCM4LZGmUYQ6VEhojZxIjGsO7uJ_AY7iYJA7gBrdBjTvLF8jCCBWJt1GpEo_6MOzAK7SJ5D4uzWD5-n442IGN0F30WdCk6bmkYcxfNKbQj-oRiWiM-cSGhvHj5MBtGnRuicUQGG6-3TALrXT4HklXLh84Wk0Q/s5472/DSC04232.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNIRyd2SBys5rMItHdo4HsN_gOEWjrZNCM4LZGmUYQ6VEhojZxIjGsO7uJ_AY7iYJA7gBrdBjTvLF8jCCBWJt1GpEo_6MOzAK7SJ5D4uzWD5-n442IGN0F30WdCk6bmkYcxfNKbQj-oRiWiM-cSGhvHj5MBtGnRuicUQGG6-3TALrXT4HklXLh84Wk0Q/w320-h213/DSC04232.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>The town is long and thin, and in a few minutes we had reached the other, southern, end. Time for a 2nd coffee of the day--served in glass cups, quite unusual for most of Rome--in a nice bar with many patrons, inside and outside.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqiSEvq3aGfK19uRRQN9DieYtVNnhDJPWRAWbAk6836q10qs10BMx_aD74Q04ieggAxI_1fpFbOIN4yk8LjBKa8wu1MtNoijB-CqwzORqqoSbKTPUh4VlTFe35YLetE6pwp9pLLgbKalXYRkmiZBt55LCGwfaYs3HxQbAv8y9XVJXAwWsSvnix1dapjQ/s5472/DSC04242.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqiSEvq3aGfK19uRRQN9DieYtVNnhDJPWRAWbAk6836q10qs10BMx_aD74Q04ieggAxI_1fpFbOIN4yk8LjBKa8wu1MtNoijB-CqwzORqqoSbKTPUh4VlTFe35YLetE6pwp9pLLgbKalXYRkmiZBt55LCGwfaYs3HxQbAv8y9XVJXAwWsSvnix1dapjQ/s320/DSC04242.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Y5gktNpzAfAWMunmTHDRVp4268Rcr0ml3ae-3R5RrkQewcb9ROtqBBv5G6TfDh8UMvbSGRhEUyF_Pqos_MtsoJmXvI60jX-zPYvyLUpl6qENkvACFs6wvhpxGzWNKRvc4Fui9WkIUsmzKeMNRELQNwP_kVjLxvYhYeHG1YIq2dAGDXf34bF5cPO8HQ/s5472/DSC04243.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Y5gktNpzAfAWMunmTHDRVp4268Rcr0ml3ae-3R5RrkQewcb9ROtqBBv5G6TfDh8UMvbSGRhEUyF_Pqos_MtsoJmXvI60jX-zPYvyLUpl6qENkvACFs6wvhpxGzWNKRvc4Fui9WkIUsmzKeMNRELQNwP_kVjLxvYhYeHG1YIq2dAGDXf34bF5cPO8HQ/s320/DSC04243.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>On our return to the scooter we found lots of evidence of Quarticciolo's liberal (and radical) politics. On the liberal side, we came across a center for volunteers and, next to it, a free book exchange (there aren't many in Rome) housed in an old cooler. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdxzFS3q4bXQ2LiLMBrsgJbEIVuLW-pZMRYJ4vf6o0IdY8uwTSsfKktqWoGOloStam6FaKQvonfPM8WgFc3AzyYZ2KkC1I5zGIRM707vQb8Jp2zgTbVVCzkgzodV--NjybENRWqwYkmPH7ZKi-JgVZwGupUcFMA39RIYX_3Am8HNxop4Br_T78PPywA/s5472/DSC04247.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdxzFS3q4bXQ2LiLMBrsgJbEIVuLW-pZMRYJ4vf6o0IdY8uwTSsfKktqWoGOloStam6FaKQvonfPM8WgFc3AzyYZ2KkC1I5zGIRM707vQb8Jp2zgTbVVCzkgzodV--NjybENRWqwYkmPH7ZKi-JgVZwGupUcFMA39RIYX_3Am8HNxop4Br_T78PPywA/w400-h266/DSC04247.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p>Housing is a major issue, as it was 80 years ago. A larger banner proclaimed "<i>Stop Sgomberi</i>" (stop evictions), and a sign made a point of the <i>comitato's</i> recent efforts to move the community in an ecological direction: "How can one make an ecological transition when it's raining on your head inside your house?" </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgukZuc-aQhtEkfRpgw8mIzP1tycUi5namNyspWLO84np_AVAPcia0pyzC0qALeV5gU2LpCXgBsmc8uoKE8ucjUwvS8M8nF53oS-czRwrfEOWMmToKPwZ8UF5voA9-VDi4hY6awSJnaQM6jfrhnpELy9CGMjjDEaClbNEpy4VUgBJa2zuYaQqcUjI3Miw/s5472/DSC04252.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgukZuc-aQhtEkfRpgw8mIzP1tycUi5namNyspWLO84np_AVAPcia0pyzC0qALeV5gU2LpCXgBsmc8uoKE8ucjUwvS8M8nF53oS-czRwrfEOWMmToKPwZ8UF5voA9-VDi4hY6awSJnaQM6jfrhnpELy9CGMjjDEaClbNEpy4VUgBJa2zuYaQqcUjI3Miw/w640-h426/DSC04252.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Stop Evictions. We all have a right to a house!"</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4y-7e8W7TSsGVd_WRH62CpICYvsAkKJ1-P59dMNb_CXaKLjjBJzHmhogJ5rs6TbYaoLeu7ct8SZ2tGqJ7Q7N-yK1K4fxfkq0e0T32Emg3BZ-exqrS6TDfgrlAGEKIOiMAp9mWViGWVQ7sCMb8Yr91AHqwHClfS4WEKQN8G-hYkBGu1LYD6ZI9Bdfb1A/s5472/DSC04228.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4y-7e8W7TSsGVd_WRH62CpICYvsAkKJ1-P59dMNb_CXaKLjjBJzHmhogJ5rs6TbYaoLeu7ct8SZ2tGqJ7Q7N-yK1K4fxfkq0e0T32Emg3BZ-exqrS6TDfgrlAGEKIOiMAp9mWViGWVQ7sCMb8Yr91AHqwHClfS4WEKQN8G-hYkBGu1LYD6ZI9Bdfb1A/w400-h266/DSC04228.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The ecological transition doesn't make much sense when it's <br />raining of your head--inside your house!"</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Low-income communities such as Quarticciolo are likely to be anti-prison (<i>anti-carcere</i>), and signs confirmed that perspective. We also found standard Communist stuff--<i>Viva Stalin</i> (really?) and a hammer and sickle with the date, 1917, of the Russian Revolution.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjOmTxYVOJW5k1vmcNEhOqG6pRdLjOgcKC8tIALqSPtFeSV3v2jewoIROec56V2Z47cUjBPSOkXxDFwx_zDeSJ_dzKqTHb5ou-v2ZKv6UyEjnbbA96NFliIRo1nTtFr5kogYY__AE25Kq5Mxn8h5J439BKVP7gUuh_Sppn7OgYqLyLhGpu-coQA7TXQ/s5472/DSC04263.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjOmTxYVOJW5k1vmcNEhOqG6pRdLjOgcKC8tIALqSPtFeSV3v2jewoIROec56V2Z47cUjBPSOkXxDFwx_zDeSJ_dzKqTHb5ou-v2ZKv6UyEjnbbA96NFliIRo1nTtFr5kogYY__AE25Kq5Mxn8h5J439BKVP7gUuh_Sppn7OgYqLyLhGpu-coQA7TXQ/s320/DSC04263.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>And an enormous and striking portrait of (to us) a person unknown. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4T0pc2LUgjrMumqgC6z1SS06dwnCC-0ZzBL-Gi9nLhXzhMqjuhlkcFYiJxYX_apk32F4pXkDMf3eisPODr9JyZ5aOognG_sTRwMD6XN13z7vYev-a9kzmbQLS9qbbRth05x5HYBGpHvwiGKpSsrwouyGCPxblavkQjccNTvGlnW_ASGM-rRvQiCRfA/s5472/DSC04258.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4T0pc2LUgjrMumqgC6z1SS06dwnCC-0ZzBL-Gi9nLhXzhMqjuhlkcFYiJxYX_apk32F4pXkDMf3eisPODr9JyZ5aOognG_sTRwMD6XN13z7vYev-a9kzmbQLS9qbbRth05x5HYBGpHvwiGKpSsrwouyGCPxblavkQjccNTvGlnW_ASGM-rRvQiCRfA/w426-h640/DSC04258.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p>One last photo, this one not so political--and yet it is. The wall sign reads, "Quarantine in 20 square meters: You can't do it." </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-rjQQSUqrSVhmwlP3k6e3a1MEnTP20KFsgNOrwaiXMWOcaTZdCQAkpSrW4qbpjlU8CIEnAH8XUjGIAft9t3xPYE9BA_VdXJiO34dolfkiyCi9CklJUEW51w5Rja1AmczNOJf9H5BE3Ht8wQdT9BAfybYKPdW4uEJGA0ghJCmbVfafMOIw4XrVnEoyw/s5472/DSC04260.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-rjQQSUqrSVhmwlP3k6e3a1MEnTP20KFsgNOrwaiXMWOcaTZdCQAkpSrW4qbpjlU8CIEnAH8XUjGIAft9t3xPYE9BA_VdXJiO34dolfkiyCi9CklJUEW51w5Rja1AmczNOJf9H5BE3Ht8wQdT9BAfybYKPdW4uEJGA0ghJCmbVfafMOIw4XrVnEoyw/w400-h266/DSC04260.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Thanks, Quarticciolo, for having us!</p><p>Bill </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-47569045830329290432023-06-26T10:47:00.001-07:002023-06-26T10:48:07.365-07:00Sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro and Fendi Put On a Show<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEMkdZgAApJma2GvklMduFcJC6WZ3D9lfuWf3t9-qs6izHV_z5jGS4b7ycT0RTGXd_ioz2Z0fpJqK18du6L_vxrgucxOLAXozbMrF12f3i_yfA8vP1GxRUbVY-ZioPYw4UujObGMtB5JEvWPkoOCXIFL8DZMNXeGVuuSVr2OIp6wj8KGSNKggxpXwGg/s4026/pomodoro%20uccello%20bill.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="1986" data-original-width="4026" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEMkdZgAApJma2GvklMduFcJC6WZ3D9lfuWf3t9-qs6izHV_z5jGS4b7ycT0RTGXd_ioz2Z0fpJqK18du6L_vxrgucxOLAXozbMrF12f3i_yfA8vP1GxRUbVY-ZioPYw4UujObGMtB5JEvWPkoOCXIFL8DZMNXeGVuuSVr2OIp6wj8KGSNKggxpXwGg/w640-h316/pomodoro%20uccello%20bill.jpg" width="640" /></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bill in front of the 'opening' piece, Le Battaglie ("The Battles" 1995), which Pomodoro says was inspired by Paolo Uccello's "La Battaglia di San Romano" ("The Battle of San Romano" - first half of 1400s) in Siena. (Hisham Matar's "A Month in Siena" has many incisive pages devoted to this painting.)</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>A little late to the game, we "discovered" Arnaldo Pomodoro, thanks to a newspaper ad on the opening of a new exhibition of some of his large-scale works at Fendi's gallery at the restored Palazzo della Civilta' Romano in EUR. It's not that we hadn't seen his work before - we have long appreciated the globe/sphere in front of the Farnesina, the Italian "state department" in Rome. His "sphere within a sphere" are all over the world, we now know.</p><p>The exhibition at Fendi - <a href="https://arnaldopomodoro.fendi.com/en/" target="_blank"><i>Il Grande Teatro delle Civilta' - </i>"The Great Theater of Civilizations"</a> - is remarkable for its installation of numerous enormous works - on the scale of Richard Serra's (though Pomodoro's are one-sided - one cannot walk in and around them).</p><p>The Palazzo (also known as the "Square Coliseum") is itself so imposing that at first we found Pomodoro's works installed outside of it simply too small and squatty.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-RyA6KTz72jdqO2Q75ns7YLqZe7jo_WCh12Qvy7ALWOWZKvHZccBnULnzFlxw7gAIEF2kx92kj8Y2hoj41LkoSjLASTVqz-0H0V_Drc9xY7K5PxMcVnZchomyMTWjd1MG0DvZFLlS-rbmPExCq5CXqlnJb_rkfEmL5GZZqJrPu3DEgAs6YrqWVUEXw/s4590/pomodoro%20greek%201.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3371" data-original-width="4590" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-RyA6KTz72jdqO2Q75ns7YLqZe7jo_WCh12Qvy7ALWOWZKvHZccBnULnzFlxw7gAIEF2kx92kj8Y2hoj41LkoSjLASTVqz-0H0V_Drc9xY7K5PxMcVnZchomyMTWjd1MG0DvZFLlS-rbmPExCq5CXqlnJb_rkfEmL5GZZqJrPu3DEgAs6YrqWVUEXw/s320/pomodoro%20greek%201.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: right;"><i>Case in point, right. Dianne tries to figure out what it is - against the backdrop of a much more imposing statue from the building's original design. Turns out it's Agamemnon, and the design was for a Greek theater production in 2014 in Siracusa and so, makes sense. It wasn't designed for this place.</i></p><p style="text-align: right;"><i><br /></i></p><p style="text-align: right;"><i><br /></i></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvKB9eqM7N4IjD-cGOKY_EeWqt6fRxxzpybumhZrAmpDM0N9SIkpwGWh4zpuiMQhf70znF3ZrPSBCVqbPe3cj-_g4DCzofkbpjV96LgcEoMT7TV0lXZvxMRmDXFHCBFb2KyxAk-ROIf_W8zIrLUlSt92YMT9uyfOkRDLt8EZm7K4tP1FTu8vzxLHtBg/s4364/pomodoro%20girl.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4364" data-original-width="2236" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvKB9eqM7N4IjD-cGOKY_EeWqt6fRxxzpybumhZrAmpDM0N9SIkpwGWh4zpuiMQhf70znF3ZrPSBCVqbPe3cj-_g4DCzofkbpjV96LgcEoMT7TV0lXZvxMRmDXFHCBFb2KyxAk-ROIf_W8zIrLUlSt92YMT9uyfOkRDLt8EZm7K4tP1FTu8vzxLHtBg/s320/pomodoro%20girl.JPG" width="164" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p>Two aspects of the exhibit appealed to us. First, the delight of children grooving to the artwork, as at left.<p></p><p style="text-align: left;">Second, the excellent and informative flat material that gives shape to Pomodoro's lengthy career. He's about to turn 97 (the English language Wikipedia entry says his active years WERE 1954-2005 - whoops!). These are displayed in bright, large glass cases, slide-out drawers - both vertical and horizontal. We were intrigued by his work in the graphics medium.</p><br /><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zSstIQN8p65SCoi9bHa2sW00nGYz8w6m-BFiA_0HG9-EcfCMauWTNeJYuaqhq0bTo5jcTP-ewOQ3EzF6TcjmePycibI7uogL4hJa8q6ZniSP2rzj2ldmBcVqnpn3ILervs2GbBeD11KmKwtj86g3OXGCzRq2bTSwShie39fSyGaTrRvVpos_ZyvyWg/s4032/pomodoro%20prints.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zSstIQN8p65SCoi9bHa2sW00nGYz8w6m-BFiA_0HG9-EcfCMauWTNeJYuaqhq0bTo5jcTP-ewOQ3EzF6TcjmePycibI7uogL4hJa8q6ZniSP2rzj2ldmBcVqnpn3ILervs2GbBeD11KmKwtj86g3OXGCzRq2bTSwShie39fSyGaTrRvVpos_ZyvyWg/w240-h320/pomodoro%20prints.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">And we learned about the placement of his works around the world. Newspaper articles and drawings showed that one of his obelisk-type sculptures had been installed on the Gianicolo, in a highly visible but unlikely spot - the traffic circle on the way up to the Bambino Gesu' Hospital that hosts the large entrances to the bus parking for the hordes visiting St. Peter's and the Vatican (you can also access the Caput Mundi shopping mall Bill wrote about recently from this underground parking venue). Below is the sketch - but it must have been there because there also were photos of it being installed. We missed it "in the flesh."</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbINk0_1nkde1eVru8ANmoCUXEsU-yKb_m1c2miXzzEGATr3E3IKi3d7Z_iUerYzJf9vcNQx2Sj-97iStP8KSsD0GkMNlQ8_YEyJMCjS4tddlOhGBsoViNr4FQg2Lw9mHAFZ4Ckx-LmeGnM2F5pvrlKunm4iSCRy8k3lGQVkPafhRXiWNXTlEvR6fe_w/s4370/pomodoro%20al%20gianicolo%20drawing.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3099" data-original-width="4370" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbINk0_1nkde1eVru8ANmoCUXEsU-yKb_m1c2miXzzEGATr3E3IKi3d7Z_iUerYzJf9vcNQx2Sj-97iStP8KSsD0GkMNlQ8_YEyJMCjS4tddlOhGBsoViNr4FQg2Lw9mHAFZ4Ckx-LmeGnM2F5pvrlKunm4iSCRy8k3lGQVkPafhRXiWNXTlEvR6fe_w/w640-h454/pomodoro%20al%20gianicolo%20drawing.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYnAHmgGO6pNOEf-hNd5sZjy1vXxMLvRPp5HsI_SlCY323sLJzVCeb_hH-NIaRgfoQwdYLm4WosMI0gRR4p3ND9gL-KvkDlyA5yRkeC7aWKa4LuGEPlWsbBbc1NdGAgTxXMxkt2dn7lQfcJFAsZffrSbVvl4APVNFJQK7LWtNVaWGUriviu0bHqIjWJQ/s4121/pomodoro%20drawers.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3461" data-original-width="4121" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYnAHmgGO6pNOEf-hNd5sZjy1vXxMLvRPp5HsI_SlCY323sLJzVCeb_hH-NIaRgfoQwdYLm4WosMI0gRR4p3ND9gL-KvkDlyA5yRkeC7aWKa4LuGEPlWsbBbc1NdGAgTxXMxkt2dn7lQfcJFAsZffrSbVvl4APVNFJQK7LWtNVaWGUriviu0bHqIjWJQ/s320/pomodoro%20drawers.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;"><i>Left, Dianne checking out one of the drawers with sketches, newspaper articles, graphic works, and explanations. (If only my kitchen drawers worked this well!)</i></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">A hand-out at the exhibition shows the location of Pomodoro's works around Rome. We later were on a tour of Palazzo dello Sport (Nervi's ground-breaking building for the 1960 Olympics; Ali - as Cassius Clay - won his gold medal here), which features a Pomodoro obelisk in another once-traffic-circle (named Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi), now abandoned and rather forlorn.</p><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRK0roFxUCXH8BKXoWky8d1n-4ZYsHVZ8biopes4XQyUVEU9xdfQdgv4EL9GlplOIhVTJPl0hSs3n_k9UpWCann0IODwoxAjri24tfflm1sSSz05vhNgNUi1v-i71_hfuqCqD-Ka7lCBrJn86eKeOqYfwtv5HTcGofSXosxPkRV1j62Jc3vLZqvYNiPw/s5472/Pomodoro%20palazzo%20obelisk%202.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRK0roFxUCXH8BKXoWky8d1n-4ZYsHVZ8biopes4XQyUVEU9xdfQdgv4EL9GlplOIhVTJPl0hSs3n_k9UpWCann0IODwoxAjri24tfflm1sSSz05vhNgNUi1v-i71_hfuqCqD-Ka7lCBrJn86eKeOqYfwtv5HTcGofSXosxPkRV1j62Jc3vLZqvYNiPw/w200-h133/Pomodoro%20palazzo%20obelisk%202.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>The photo at right shows the condition of the piazza and statue.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzsPaKv6ojYeWg2HYCO5TpRtHny7A9TJFhU0lXL_IueV4wTzyvy5vowsEaW-eF7tki7LtkzKDMq66Emu_Wq4ln-AHpJsB3_DIyjFJXUq9lVE_zlLkBKJRqc3o-bnv87Ay3e4Zkm6La4VG-gsOBQQ1C29qsTOYlvXQY9tnw4BajULYE0KgULmaxiPqB1w/s5472/Pomodoro%20palazzo%20obelisk%201.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzsPaKv6ojYeWg2HYCO5TpRtHny7A9TJFhU0lXL_IueV4wTzyvy5vowsEaW-eF7tki7LtkzKDMq66Emu_Wq4ln-AHpJsB3_DIyjFJXUq9lVE_zlLkBKJRqc3o-bnv87Ay3e4Zkm6La4VG-gsOBQQ1C29qsTOYlvXQY9tnw4BajULYE0KgULmaxiPqB1w/s320/Pomodoro%20palazzo%20obelisk%201.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">We've heard the complaint (and are tempted ourselves) to view Pomodoro as a "one-trick pony." If you unwrap the obelisk, it looks like the flat pieces. The shapes are similar throughout his work. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The exhibition at Fendi ends with a newer piece (1996-97, below) that is a complement in white to the introductory <i>Le Battaglie</i> that leads off this post.</p><p style="text-align: left;">To us, it didn't seem to move the needle much in terms of his art.<i> </i></p><p style="text-align: left;">The title of the work is <i>Movimento in pieno aria e nel profondo</i> ("Movement in free space and in the depths" - or something like that!).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNJmWFkuvg4HeFQsy6pdDPOgd8rw_H6stDOvbfWQViffYR2M0h7i31TOr_ZE9ImpJMnSAIHTidaDu3ix7q8o7nLQ7yYizUN6X8Vhz6Dpg2P4PS7-MybqXmz3GfNo3NYjFetRmsP0khVvJ-IUc-tQNxgxuYQiQAonBYdZ4CC0z-cEv3Me0vRTh3IHI3w/s5155/pomodoro%20white.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3048" data-original-width="5155" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNJmWFkuvg4HeFQsy6pdDPOgd8rw_H6stDOvbfWQViffYR2M0h7i31TOr_ZE9ImpJMnSAIHTidaDu3ix7q8o7nLQ7yYizUN6X8Vhz6Dpg2P4PS7-MybqXmz3GfNo3NYjFetRmsP0khVvJ-IUc-tQNxgxuYQiQAonBYdZ4CC0z-cEv3Me0vRTh3IHI3w/w640-h378/pomodoro%20white.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnX2SHbUvoCnyx9g8EI4VWp2TYupmdwn-IexLKmhuIyEwNSDc2dkcSWNHUmIhejJyO79M-GX--XLqBVMDXkKQUVp_BMakjpjFn7Bzvo3nEKZpAONDJaVa3XK670cpC4Y8ZReO7t84f9MFFZEPzdrZSx8Y0Ez4HVJAfokvIAejA0v1W8yrmG7dB1TICQ/s5472/pomodoro%20white%20closeup.JPG" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnX2SHbUvoCnyx9g8EI4VWp2TYupmdwn-IexLKmhuIyEwNSDc2dkcSWNHUmIhejJyO79M-GX--XLqBVMDXkKQUVp_BMakjpjFn7Bzvo3nEKZpAONDJaVa3XK670cpC4Y8ZReO7t84f9MFFZEPzdrZSx8Y0Ez4HVJAfokvIAejA0v1W8yrmG7dB1TICQ/s320/pomodoro%20white%20closeup.JPG" width="320" /></a>Close-up at right.</p><p style="text-align: left;">On the other hand, if one looks at his costumes, graphic work, public art - the way it is placed in the world, his vision seems greater. </p><p style="text-align: left;">We close with some of these other pieces, including our having fun with them - which is a benefit of art as well.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">If you can't get to Rome to see <i>Il Grande Teatro delle Civilta' - </i>"The Great Theater of Civilizations" before it closes October 1, the website is comprehensive. It includes all the works, plus a visual tour, plus a map of his works all over the world.</p><p style="text-align: left;">In Italian and English here: <a href="https://arnaldopomodoro.fendi.com/en/">https://arnaldopomodoro.fendi.com/en/</a></p><p style="text-align: left;">Dianne</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi47uAiMofuaO0Hh9O284DqbWAdw8O9Ov1ImLtU_86OqHtwMc5kkah4qh5ZkNEXNS_pVj4inktOhdZG2fFCbbbGz2OQUsHf6Pc7_dM1djv8Bfr2lg2JgAnTutThbaybsEoJLvTkQlM-cCefKzeTZjGGu4h2mitXmlXg-99JBBphtRbb38aWcZbjQaC5Zg/s3088/IMG_3953.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2320" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi47uAiMofuaO0Hh9O284DqbWAdw8O9Ov1ImLtU_86OqHtwMc5kkah4qh5ZkNEXNS_pVj4inktOhdZG2fFCbbbGz2OQUsHf6Pc7_dM1djv8Bfr2lg2JgAnTutThbaybsEoJLvTkQlM-cCefKzeTZjGGu4h2mitXmlXg-99JBBphtRbb38aWcZbjQaC5Zg/s320/IMG_3953.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><i>RST with one of the costumes, this one fr</i><i>om 1986 for </i>Didone<i> (Dido), one of my favorite tragic heroines. .</i></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibi_G0_CuYGDTyxpRROHRjqrmnN5RLLnr4fXMbGGKUiDGbUOIe5hBnIV2jtyo9-9UEOVmszsi8d23sdup2RMsbC_Gawwxn2yZri0l9RLDsG4WP4HBUDqyJ8dbXgDVppbbXniJDDakHWOH_sbtlQAGIrw8L_6LodY4U1cx0yFBqEvVtisyr46_P_dcIig/s4032/IMG_3969.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibi_G0_CuYGDTyxpRROHRjqrmnN5RLLnr4fXMbGGKUiDGbUOIe5hBnIV2jtyo9-9UEOVmszsi8d23sdup2RMsbC_Gawwxn2yZri0l9RLDsG4WP4HBUDqyJ8dbXgDVppbbXniJDDakHWOH_sbtlQAGIrw8L_6LodY4U1cx0yFBqEvVtisyr46_P_dcIig/s320/IMG_3969.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><p style="text-align: left;">There's a relationship between the faux "printer's wheel" outside (<i>Rotativa di Babilonia</i> - Babylon's wheel, 1991) and the graphics-type work inside (<i>Tracce I-VII</i> - Traces 1-7, 1998) (above and below).</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-GryG-XX4ZJdGTxfLT9jWsgSTaQAhMzDfQhNn8274gbHncXkQMTUbi120VRsydgAvkQLL9UReNyvDWM2NaTYFst54BGOljdSTvEgfdO420x343jSELFvvPUGlTACP0IKgVxsolVoNeVmFgm033WKNraJm-1K24NTCJhjZyJTU-g6WKVXOEHqiobhKw/s4032/IMG_3970.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-GryG-XX4ZJdGTxfLT9jWsgSTaQAhMzDfQhNn8274gbHncXkQMTUbi120VRsydgAvkQLL9UReNyvDWM2NaTYFst54BGOljdSTvEgfdO420x343jSELFvvPUGlTACP0IKgVxsolVoNeVmFgm033WKNraJm-1K24NTCJhjZyJTU-g6WKVXOEHqiobhKw/s320/IMG_3970.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVPr-RFIZ5rFBAMT3IxyLVZYIDwTUidGskmTEOEwlKz3w3SuCymM4GD5BE62yo5_dUa3ZVx8uHWEM6d93biIgNWJZ0PnJ_mlHdODLgnyTHUibuTSIvqpDEEzXs4Qc3BYr1eqMDPLtDXV6HwlNiSSU9TCksBd2gHC4ijEsFC_NA-rpfJWvKD8ifDWunLA/s5472/pomodoro%20cube.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVPr-RFIZ5rFBAMT3IxyLVZYIDwTUidGskmTEOEwlKz3w3SuCymM4GD5BE62yo5_dUa3ZVx8uHWEM6d93biIgNWJZ0PnJ_mlHdODLgnyTHUibuTSIvqpDEEzXs4Qc3BYr1eqMDPLtDXV6HwlNiSSU9TCksBd2gHC4ijEsFC_NA-rpfJWvKD8ifDWunLA/s320/pomodoro%20cube.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">A close-up of <i>Il cubo </i>("The Cube," 1961-62), one of the first works in the show, and one one of us found intriguing - maybe because it had some "white space" in it.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><br /><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">Below is the most recent of Pomodoro's sculptures in the exhibition - <i>Continuum</i>, 2010 - one that seems to highlight made-up hieroglyphics. Pomodoro's large, rectangular pieces remind us of Richard Serra's, but the Italian sculptor's are very much 2-dimensional with bas relief, not the 3-dimensional, run-around-and-through-it of Serra.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFORU9oIel0z7XZECnHzQlzn6TzaZS9JhSEtEYgOOIynAcfOl0rU2W6bE8FPIiB1Ie6v9iOjsPxSWKXjsPpHRf1YP1jvf3trrWgLk0BtkoVnVWGXuRpI2UuLyhacS5Wt70JGWnhD1WGfW3ocnDv9-CCNo89KzIsPlk_tTp34JOQqyu6-8jtDLCGJhqw/s3839/pomodoro%20flat%20w%20couple.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2619" data-original-width="3839" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFORU9oIel0z7XZECnHzQlzn6TzaZS9JhSEtEYgOOIynAcfOl0rU2W6bE8FPIiB1Ie6v9iOjsPxSWKXjsPpHRf1YP1jvf3trrWgLk0BtkoVnVWGXuRpI2UuLyhacS5Wt70JGWnhD1WGfW3ocnDv9-CCNo89KzIsPlk_tTp34JOQqyu6-8jtDLCGJhqw/w640-h435/pomodoro%20flat%20w%20couple.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;">The artist with his barbed take on Fendi's Peekaboo bag - on display during the exhibition: </p><div class="credit" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #666666; font-family: Arial, serif; font-feature-settings: inherit; font-kerning: inherit; font-optical-sizing: inherit; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-alternates: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variation-settings: inherit; line-height: 16px; margin: 0px 0px 15px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; word-break: break-word;">(Image credit: Carlos & Dario Tettamanzi)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMo5kmaK4Jd3sn5cc1yNp0x8hHbIouMJM2rqWNHVD_lWfI8ubHRCCl6mljgKYfUrXzRFKGcaz0KxfAotEWDyCTqVPVGXHSllc0h-gX5mxz0Rq8j6CVYqdmJpq4EjovbdjKWdgu39uLaBewJDpr9beGFhK3BRyJAy_TeKKVlLjEUSaapZduJS58IePM9g/s1198/pomodoro%20w%20bag.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="1198" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMo5kmaK4Jd3sn5cc1yNp0x8hHbIouMJM2rqWNHVD_lWfI8ubHRCCl6mljgKYfUrXzRFKGcaz0KxfAotEWDyCTqVPVGXHSllc0h-gX5mxz0Rq8j6CVYqdmJpq4EjovbdjKWdgu39uLaBewJDpr9beGFhK3BRyJAy_TeKKVlLjEUSaapZduJS58IePM9g/s320/pomodoro%20w%20bag.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-77965478330856549952023-06-08T02:08:00.000-07:002023-06-08T02:08:19.941-07:00Ostia's Garbatella - 1926 public housing and a WWII bomb shelter<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT2_iU2gqckHjP-Cu2EYOIH4qFnA7RRsGnnzWNtDNR53tPx95Sp2CtEJ4uQDabx6gNv5ywvN2PPn8IDacoQ02DjC30ek0-SYdreP6AWWprve6SiXNkvcK2MV2nb1R6Fd-b5T2mkilBK9GEwMoQivGYo18BP80v_VtlfA8_MQo90bFErz-4B0_IkLsGYQ/s5472/Ostia%20housing%20big%20picture.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT2_iU2gqckHjP-Cu2EYOIH4qFnA7RRsGnnzWNtDNR53tPx95Sp2CtEJ4uQDabx6gNv5ywvN2PPn8IDacoQ02DjC30ek0-SYdreP6AWWprve6SiXNkvcK2MV2nb1R6Fd-b5T2mkilBK9GEwMoQivGYo18BP80v_VtlfA8_MQo90bFErz-4B0_IkLsGYQ/w640-h426/Ostia%20housing%20big%20picture.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Ostia, a town along the Mediterranean Sea not far from Rome - the new, not the ancient Ostia - is partly a creation of the Fascists. It was founded earlier, in 1884. Later the Mussolini government invested massively in it, resulting in many buildings of the 1920s and 1930s style architecture (the famous post office, among them).</p><p></p><p>Public housing (<i>"case popolari"</i>) was first constructed in Ostia in 1926 and bears all the markings of the pre-modern architecture that was built shortly before the Fascists fell in love with modernism. The Ostia buildings most resemble those of Rome's Garbatella quarter, or of the quarter of Monte Sacro, built along the lines of a "garden city" in the1910s and 1920s. The state of the infrastructure is sadly poor, but the basic design of the complex is still lovely and worth exploring.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie8JxdSUPJMWocv4s30DcJJO8OBVr9b_RW8jNLWD5b_2O_zjCiA95FWDt039EfiGAR6wAF3OOdAJcV-6908D8JoRtfUtXfyame1PL_QhL3b9kUQXZgIa_3l5J7SwoujucITsp1B5ACW3mHyxyuZDTadplAR8-61uYle8pQiKI-_JXHo7ynC0AViOFBDA/s5472/Ostia%20housing%20terrace.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie8JxdSUPJMWocv4s30DcJJO8OBVr9b_RW8jNLWD5b_2O_zjCiA95FWDt039EfiGAR6wAF3OOdAJcV-6908D8JoRtfUtXfyame1PL_QhL3b9kUQXZgIa_3l5J7SwoujucITsp1B5ACW3mHyxyuZDTadplAR8-61uYle8pQiKI-_JXHo7ynC0AViOFBDA/w400-h266/Ostia%20housing%20terrace.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p>Above, one of the grand terraces, with an enormous Michelangelo-like cornice and citations to the Roman arches, that makes one think one is in <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/09/rst-top-40-16-garbatella.html" target="_blank">Garbatella</a> (as well as evidence of crumbling stucco).</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6T250bwn5Sw2WZXheVnvBQKvJAjg7RrJS5q8PPh23s5p0uYCzGu8s5ETRwdsciPJD_mG4IcCnYGO-gNYGoXpd6188w_BO5wezFKUeJGLL4-nC0hs-d8bTxrpA_WoNpvDwcY6aQFZTRfORYffKAXs5XEF3Hkynks5HcWzjFNKwlp9qEGAWhVSHmQZ5Lg/s5472/Ostia%20housing%20ship%20detail.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6T250bwn5Sw2WZXheVnvBQKvJAjg7RrJS5q8PPh23s5p0uYCzGu8s5ETRwdsciPJD_mG4IcCnYGO-gNYGoXpd6188w_BO5wezFKUeJGLL4-nC0hs-d8bTxrpA_WoNpvDwcY6aQFZTRfORYffKAXs5XEF3Hkynks5HcWzjFNKwlp9qEGAWhVSHmQZ5Lg/s320/Ostia%20housing%20ship%20detail.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The lead photo at the top gives a sense of the wonderful detail of early 19th century public housing, including small balconies, and especially portholes and the ship bas relief (top photo and photo at right), echoing Ostia's life as a port since Roman times.<div><br /></div><div>The <a href="https://zero.eu/en/news/open-house-roma-2022-destinazione-ostia/" target="_blank">brief description of the tour</a> we took described the housing project in these terms:</div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i>"There exists in Ostia a place where one seems to turn back in time to find oneself walking through Garbatella in the '20s...." The architect was Camillo Palmerini, who designed the buildings "on the model of a building with an open courtyard. The arches, chimneys, the loggias, the small columns, the corners, the large cornices, all are examples of the so-called 'barocchetto romano,' a term coined by Gustavo Giovannoni in the '20s to identify the style used in Garbatella, today, an ideal dialog with the mosaics of Ostia Antica, colored with local elements of ocean inspiration - boats and marine animals."</i><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq67mYlnmlgTtmzen3SHcz-xVkWpiQwU6ocnVmpxeNW4yPB3zpiZkkgfH6Be--stAJOH6aLZ9wYBtK0b7geoeyPzBQCSDJRg7MGj9YA500VIHU9aiF3UUKDhn-6kUCSh0aBkybE73PlMKmB40Vf23lMvBgmlTQtbouA9FcU8cTWNalh7FfFdwS3pJMjw/s5472/Ostia%20housing%20arch%20crumble.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq67mYlnmlgTtmzen3SHcz-xVkWpiQwU6ocnVmpxeNW4yPB3zpiZkkgfH6Be--stAJOH6aLZ9wYBtK0b7geoeyPzBQCSDJRg7MGj9YA500VIHU9aiF3UUKDhn-6kUCSh0aBkybE73PlMKmB40Vf23lMvBgmlTQtbouA9FcU8cTWNalh7FfFdwS3pJMjw/w640-h426/Ostia%20housing%20arch%20crumble.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /><p></p>In the basement (cantina) of the building complex were other reminders of history: exhortations to support Mussolini and the King, still visible on the walls of what was a bomb shelter for the residents. Below are two double V signs meaning "viva" or "long live" and then Il Duce and Il Re (the Duce, i.e., Mussolini, and the King) [love the brooms lined up against the wall too]/<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMVPN0Tq7dN3zbKlmdUluTyvP3ee6YrMHvMo4Xad9GsksUWAXk3jhfr1r5ZpvDygOqeasAQYWIp7X1NB2RogFo24Q5EoL687ae1nY9H9Li00huHXhtZUmNokuBeOpZVE86lGKi2Ah0L0Qmve0eNIoZ5v6uHIRkxn6B7uFEHCvlK-XgMevhyPZazaLqGw/s5472/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti%202.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMVPN0Tq7dN3zbKlmdUluTyvP3ee6YrMHvMo4Xad9GsksUWAXk3jhfr1r5ZpvDygOqeasAQYWIp7X1NB2RogFo24Q5EoL687ae1nY9H9Li00huHXhtZUmNokuBeOpZVE86lGKi2Ah0L0Qmve0eNIoZ5v6uHIRkxn6B7uFEHCvlK-XgMevhyPZazaLqGw/w400-h266/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>We had a fairly intense discussion with a friend - a renown scholar of Fascism - who posits that retaining these "memories" of Fascism is not conducive to democracy. We appreciate the discourse, but in this case, disagree. [More photos of these 'writings' are at the end of this post.]</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvr-ZKckAL0E2qF9hYoUE7uAuJ1UEa83qKh5WS0pXdswOuzWmjjU23-PsOOIxPAZhoqqV1eik4IEWcV5bT6GgD_UVSvSYPMaZspkbW00zoUHe4D6JCKszb7hPdIlUYyN_jYhL3liNohBkKykab5UeRWK8KNMwPxB2q2ME_FyIXmd12k6FWr072OhLDqA/s5472/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti%204.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvr-ZKckAL0E2qF9hYoUE7uAuJ1UEa83qKh5WS0pXdswOuzWmjjU23-PsOOIxPAZhoqqV1eik4IEWcV5bT6GgD_UVSvSYPMaZspkbW00zoUHe4D6JCKszb7hPdIlUYyN_jYhL3liNohBkKykab5UeRWK8KNMwPxB2q2ME_FyIXmd12k6FWr072OhLDqA/s320/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti%204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div>At left, the sign - in the same typescript - is an arrow pointing to the "Security Exit" (what Americans would term an Emergency Exit). Again, this is a leftover from the war, covered with modern electrical mechanics, and mostly ignored (like the one above) as text.</div><div><div><br /><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtPus-Sp9Vxaw0UUCL6AS7Mmaa1CAqLBTPc6uYzyTVjY2pf523pjjz_jt3chFB9G-vRnfuxp0g8e1jNw8BYxzOn5L4uVIe90M3LZHclHrH84qost35sIGMBRqGUg2tGYTIpXuwz4ZLKGHTKbS3Nk70z_TZFtMBS0H7lXGVo_LYKJBxK9gfqLZ3HSIRjg/s3898/Ostia%20housing%20basement.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3410" data-original-width="3898" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtPus-Sp9Vxaw0UUCL6AS7Mmaa1CAqLBTPc6uYzyTVjY2pf523pjjz_jt3chFB9G-vRnfuxp0g8e1jNw8BYxzOn5L4uVIe90M3LZHclHrH84qost35sIGMBRqGUg2tGYTIpXuwz4ZLKGHTKbS3Nk70z_TZFtMBS0H7lXGVo_LYKJBxK9gfqLZ3HSIRjg/s320/Ostia%20housing%20basement.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above, our tour group in the basement/cantina.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCXFlG3EAaAUEgDK24MXHyCjS7SBK5W3KYx8sYBFqmpGaVC6gFtlvcrIiPKH_e8YLWcL9tMC9Gy3d4TB30MgQsM5uA4hTFi1wY_A4rJ010lC7A5QqaBj47vuOGB8TdW-dAlT2Ag6H8PWwzUm4RdbTY8uSLz8p4hrx4dZgyrOGftXI2009Z1ipySUAq8Q/s5472/Ostia%20housing%20stairs.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCXFlG3EAaAUEgDK24MXHyCjS7SBK5W3KYx8sYBFqmpGaVC6gFtlvcrIiPKH_e8YLWcL9tMC9Gy3d4TB30MgQsM5uA4hTFi1wY_A4rJ010lC7A5QqaBj47vuOGB8TdW-dAlT2Ag6H8PWwzUm4RdbTY8uSLz8p4hrx4dZgyrOGftXI2009Z1ipySUAq8Q/s320/Ostia%20housing%20stairs.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The buildings also have beautiful staircases, with unusual angles, photo at right. We know the Romans love their staircases, witness the Bernini-Borromini <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2014/02/in-rome-and-free-barberini-palace.html" target="_blank">Palazzo Barberini</a>, as well as Luigi Moretti's in <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2017/09/luigi-morettis-ex-gil-eagles-and.html" target="_blank">Trastevere's L'ex GIL </a>(written about in our posts, as linked).</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHGfDSelD4Xyyv9mvZ228SHADOcFKi9-PruioVuTlBXVFfmxwKPhbrHDQqvBwbAbiFMs_RRcoRrvETOIClbrnJ0pG3ecUidkyO0YLOxWSHcyQ10VBzsktxKAbEy29ArQdsA1nlE8Kd1Z6Zn2fkSnZsLvBsrcfF3hGJwYI8QLKCGUBL749Rb4PWYutMw/s5472/Ostia%20housing%20enter.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHGfDSelD4Xyyv9mvZ228SHADOcFKi9-PruioVuTlBXVFfmxwKPhbrHDQqvBwbAbiFMs_RRcoRrvETOIClbrnJ0pG3ecUidkyO0YLOxWSHcyQ10VBzsktxKAbEy29ArQdsA1nlE8Kd1Z6Zn2fkSnZsLvBsrcfF3hGJwYI8QLKCGUBL749Rb4PWYutMw/s320/Ostia%20housing%20enter.JPG" width="213" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Our inside look at this complex, including its cantina, was courtesy of Open House Roma, which had a special focus on Ostia last year. At left, the crumbling arch through which we entered and sign at right of the OHR tour.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Adjacent to these beautiful, unrestored buildings is modern-day housing - which we eyed while having a coffee across the street. Not bad, but one can't imagine having a tour of these 100 years after their construction.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97kIU-MBsmFtZSS-66-v8SdPrA-aOopK9AoKjRHcJPwik5J4b0hX6wD6VMHnnZRAQDR96Fgbau-WfxD7jp4WEYvmb47I1eFJm4sChNhVVnxA6eqWMrra1BEZYNkPJIIvy73MtDZUDc-RqV91CVfjktbWmJgEhhAg3uhe0VGhYHnFQwdiLCvxZgG4Hgg/s5472/DSC00055.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97kIU-MBsmFtZSS-66-v8SdPrA-aOopK9AoKjRHcJPwik5J4b0hX6wD6VMHnnZRAQDR96Fgbau-WfxD7jp4WEYvmb47I1eFJm4sChNhVVnxA6eqWMrra1BEZYNkPJIIvy73MtDZUDc-RqV91CVfjktbWmJgEhhAg3uhe0VGhYHnFQwdiLCvxZgG4Hgg/w400-h266/DSC00055.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZiH6mdrTQZdH4dpp3o4Y4AzHZUjEBTiTpOMa8R3o65uDALIYGi-3K7uoY79RF7vfTtBNuPYyuMlHI1zmx5cVuwqNsdOgCNpfG457cMyfPIZiN2efeKVUKK98-aDQCK685Op_y0Pb-EoEucWf-aYJ3vx36agwqwUX3JoB5fFcb9xssqU4p_WqVziuWw/s882/Ostia%20Pasolini%20bust.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="882" data-original-width="558" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZiH6mdrTQZdH4dpp3o4Y4AzHZUjEBTiTpOMa8R3o65uDALIYGi-3K7uoY79RF7vfTtBNuPYyuMlHI1zmx5cVuwqNsdOgCNpfG457cMyfPIZiN2efeKVUKK98-aDQCK685Op_y0Pb-EoEucWf-aYJ3vx36agwqwUX3JoB5fFcb9xssqU4p_WqVziuWw/w126-h200/Ostia%20Pasolini%20bust.jpg" width="126" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKIwzh_X2YA-yLj0P1UlUpFSAjH9sj_ZDTvzubWzJiLRA9hPzLw_ONq0F0IWph61tSJYsLGqITO6yju0P48xfu_LBClfsAE0aj02QSBxN-sZmdkwKDl2KY5Z9f8b32VNf7pRhKCDsKpTAbnG2Ei2a_TL6e42sYwymI5rKdcOVCoHXqzl1Jbt_iJKdWQ/s3223/Ostia%20plinth.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3223" data-original-width="1889" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKIwzh_X2YA-yLj0P1UlUpFSAjH9sj_ZDTvzubWzJiLRA9hPzLw_ONq0F0IWph61tSJYsLGqITO6yju0P48xfu_LBClfsAE0aj02QSBxN-sZmdkwKDl2KY5Z9f8b32VNf7pRhKCDsKpTAbnG2Ei2a_TL6e42sYwymI5rKdcOVCoHXqzl1Jbt_iJKdWQ/w188-h320/Ostia%20plinth.JPG" width="188" /></a></div>Another stop on our tour was a brief look at this column, which once marked the end of via del Mare, the "road to the sea" that Mussolini constructed starting near the Colosseum and ending here in Ostia. The plinth now sports a bust of Pier Paolo Pasolini, the once "bad boy" of Italian arts, who was murdered on the outskirts of Ostia (<a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2014/10/pasolini-remembered-ostia-murder-site.html" target="_blank">another RST post features the park in his memory</a> - near the murder site) [small photo above from Google Street View]. It once - as we recall - sported a bust of Mussolini. How times change (thankfully)!<br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">More of the writings on the wall, beginning with the one below: "Mussolini - today more than ever - is right."</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEqK9zhM0DyCdOnbCDLJRrdCW2kir2d7qLrDwEZivaK1GuxRvBWfwGaTDNygk4FT6mUDXbkWXneFBDPAjYvobJZdB2W0NFMFNLXEj1DeDF7qUbpSMHRLOc0WgNftQ_2zxVfV3STur6mh19U02hrYXsy2vkkqXmr9Ul6EtAyO-riVUoCQ3DTBSUr-DUw/s5472/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEqK9zhM0DyCdOnbCDLJRrdCW2kir2d7qLrDwEZivaK1GuxRvBWfwGaTDNygk4FT6mUDXbkWXneFBDPAjYvobJZdB2W0NFMFNLXEj1DeDF7qUbpSMHRLOc0WgNftQ_2zxVfV3STur6mh19U02hrYXsy2vkkqXmr9Ul6EtAyO-riVUoCQ3DTBSUr-DUw/w400-h266/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Below: not all the "saying" is visible, because of the light fixtures put over them (and note garbage cans below), but something to the effect of "don't worry about...who, for YOU it's best...."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIq6AbbDREBq-prZ6bs1oHwjl5X7zeZUOcb-hoKB4bpAe-ErBxBSfEooXTfZZl-SA4jQFn1OtWzR_2ixgCgEU_KRLBk9sGI3kwFl57Wb_Q5CLBSliBcJHisiw2Z3A-6NWloiyJy8p7oHjWFM4IBJMcjTNAMOJ00-sF46sIx-DOVeNDaVXgiF-b8f_Ojg/s5472/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti%203.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIq6AbbDREBq-prZ6bs1oHwjl5X7zeZUOcb-hoKB4bpAe-ErBxBSfEooXTfZZl-SA4jQFn1OtWzR_2ixgCgEU_KRLBk9sGI3kwFl57Wb_Q5CLBSliBcJHisiw2Z3A-6NWloiyJy8p7oHjWFM4IBJMcjTNAMOJ00-sF46sIx-DOVeNDaVXgiF-b8f_Ojg/w400-h266/Ostia%20muss%20grafitti%203.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div>Dianne</div><div><br /></div><div>PS - another post on a location adjacent to Ostia is RST's on the self-built, basically squatter community of<a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2015/05/idroscalo-unauthorized-self-built-rome.html" target="_blank"> Idroscalo</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><div><br /><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-69847843658746193772023-05-31T03:00:00.000-07:002023-05-31T03:48:26.082-07:00Monte Gennaro - "Rome's mountain" and a favorite hike <p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCKd00BAm-Dyi0xhowbYdG9ch7Vs-J_jY87-xnH6JTYxjnrtBgAhnqQnGYyaHHaD11Eq4bdmKsmiWaZm7_5Ue2g-rNnm3weNQ6tkUEp-0GZukCFi86bydiw_FT2frIkgdfADQZUCW3ujurx-K2CGSR-Pt3Rzg7a_ioaY9tAXN2MB7H1GxOh-USn9g0gg/s5472/DSC01902.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCKd00BAm-Dyi0xhowbYdG9ch7Vs-J_jY87-xnH6JTYxjnrtBgAhnqQnGYyaHHaD11Eq4bdmKsmiWaZm7_5Ue2g-rNnm3weNQ6tkUEp-0GZukCFi86bydiw_FT2frIkgdfADQZUCW3ujurx-K2CGSR-Pt3Rzg7a_ioaY9tAXN2MB7H1GxOh-USn9g0gg/w640-h426/DSC01902.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The view (away from Rome) from Monte Gennaro's decorated peak <br />(that's the base of the mountain-top cross at left).</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Maybe not so much the season, as dreams of the season - one of our favorite hikes - and this is a real one, not a cushy one. Up "Rome's mountain" (though bearing the name of Naples's patron saint), the tallest mountain one can see from the city, Monte Gennaro, in the Lucretili range to the northeast of Rome. Yes, you can see it from the Gianicolo, and many other high spots in Rome.</p><p>There are marked trails up to the peak from many different directions, and we've tried them all. One of our favorites is one filled with "tornanti" or switchbacks (a switchback is also called "lo zigzag"), 25 in fact - they are even numbered. </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxJrUhYNwGXTveF8-4C2FKcPTKDxI2KDURYF_aH64kh2lp88Rugd8T1ZPpWClGcpJ3WXtY7yrgk8sl9h7v6CW7-M2ysfimKN6aAjhXD9d551_4qU2HJXvI8-UZcGTr6Q_iFr2jwG5wbo7FU3uicRDTfgsGbu2cNB_xwSu0Xg8SIcxf3JxNzMdx1KOMw/s4105/gennaro%20scooter.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3343" data-original-width="4105" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxJrUhYNwGXTveF8-4C2FKcPTKDxI2KDURYF_aH64kh2lp88Rugd8T1ZPpWClGcpJ3WXtY7yrgk8sl9h7v6CW7-M2ysfimKN6aAjhXD9d551_4qU2HJXvI8-UZcGTr6Q_iFr2jwG5wbo7FU3uicRDTfgsGbu2cNB_xwSu0Xg8SIcxf3JxNzMdx1KOMw/s320/gennaro%20scooter.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The starting point for parking - roads beyond<br />this are impassible with our vehicle. The<br />twin hilltop towns of Palombara Sabina <br />(it would be quite a hike if one started from the town)<br />and Montecelio (far left) are in the background. The scooter<br />is our latest--a 2019 Honda Forza 300. <br /><br /><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p></p><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>The trail starts under a defunct funicular. Trail guides say its start is the town of Palombara Sabina (don't try to find a place to stay overnight there; we did, with no luck), but the trail's real start is up a rural road (yeah, we ran into farm dogs biting at our scooter heels on these roads) a few miles from the town itself. <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjw5lDMCvuIMez2D9dorOXPSjyCJH-AMliZLB_Ju0xwBRUWFIEM-RppMmyjxNTbzBaxghqds2zPSQ6ReVkNcJLv9ei8yuyVXky9GfZCZUcG50Yv_kh79D8bNyDS3vn1Mqrnh0Qfa6AWK1bbRUEWII9W7-UC7_HrLlOuBHQ7yArYMwIjlpGHUke91ArWA/s4507/gennaro%20funicular.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2319" data-original-width="4507" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjw5lDMCvuIMez2D9dorOXPSjyCJH-AMliZLB_Ju0xwBRUWFIEM-RppMmyjxNTbzBaxghqds2zPSQ6ReVkNcJLv9ei8yuyVXky9GfZCZUcG50Yv_kh79D8bNyDS3vn1Mqrnh0Qfa6AWK1bbRUEWII9W7-UC7_HrLlOuBHQ7yArYMwIjlpGHUke91ArWA/w443-h228/gennaro%20funicular.JPG" width="443" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The defunct funicular (and its path up the first shoulder of the mountain.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjnaUicJ6KBhzfVClPg8VN9y6Sy7FlIVWf5thwiif-I1PMuCHx75_CF8hzIwMqipwMhm6Hs-cdNK4NhEfrcWkpcZWEDITuU6yVu_eZ0C-qJAAHlkjUtYlBmAfLq1iTparFref1nr_tbuu2-U2vo6rMwMVd-2SakJ4kmN5qGtsiiFeDkrYX4_q-iXSLng/s1726/gennaro%20baskert.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1634" data-original-width="1726" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjnaUicJ6KBhzfVClPg8VN9y6Sy7FlIVWf5thwiif-I1PMuCHx75_CF8hzIwMqipwMhm6Hs-cdNK4NhEfrcWkpcZWEDITuU6yVu_eZ0C-qJAAHlkjUtYlBmAfLq1iTparFref1nr_tbuu2-U2vo6rMwMVd-2SakJ4kmN5qGtsiiFeDkrYX4_q-iXSLng/w200-h189/gennaro%20baskert.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><i style="text-align: center;">Left, a close-up of the funicular "basket." </i></div><div><i style="text-align: center;">Can you imagine stepping into </i></div><div><i style="text-align: center;">one of these (they don't stop) </i></div><div><i style="text-align: center;">and riding up that way? </i></div><div><i style="text-align: center;">We have been on one like it,</i></div><div><i style="text-align: center;">in Gubbio, Umbria.</i><br style="text-align: center;" /></div><div><i style="text-align: center;"><br /></i></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Shortly after the beginning of the trail one encounters a diorama set-up in the woods (photo below). We had seen it before, though it changes from time to time, and we took a closer look this day. </div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51KhXTymqqsYlj-7ULTfb0mlp6e3YiarJA18yhygqmf4HeSZgWRhAKZ7lQkDiBIWcuIWNepmTwy1Cda7othUcWttE-7c9WNLXwAo4RbxTsKxpuXiYXi1F8hDlUCkUCtsLQ-UgboSh2DabTJ3hS0dN3nzXNX0cfVShwsXiabKRVWhFQYeKHqkSKYFfug/s5472/DSC01891.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51KhXTymqqsYlj-7ULTfb0mlp6e3YiarJA18yhygqmf4HeSZgWRhAKZ7lQkDiBIWcuIWNepmTwy1Cda7othUcWttE-7c9WNLXwAo4RbxTsKxpuXiYXi1F8hDlUCkUCtsLQ-UgboSh2DabTJ3hS0dN3nzXNX0cfVShwsXiabKRVWhFQYeKHqkSKYFfug/w640-h426/DSC01891.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Below the sign that includes "shame on you," is a turquoise globe, <br />wrapped like a baby (or patient), hooked up to a heart monitor.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZk7XlEz-8zlLOLqxVLndId6rhK_mig-vK7RSL72SyIqc5vUH_UGmnVYBHKH1jbmFlkFWzdUpgEmsFK0VOMcsn6my3msxrsbJPAxZNG5GcTwqrF7BsBumSSksLwUDYlnARQ78s0v6jwrhPSFBREmmeaQXmHI7K37ZdmYnM_oCQ5Oq6KTSn07YLT9rsw/s5472/DSC01892.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZk7XlEz-8zlLOLqxVLndId6rhK_mig-vK7RSL72SyIqc5vUH_UGmnVYBHKH1jbmFlkFWzdUpgEmsFK0VOMcsn6my3msxrsbJPAxZNG5GcTwqrF7BsBumSSksLwUDYlnARQ78s0v6jwrhPSFBREmmeaQXmHI7K37ZdmYnM_oCQ5Oq6KTSn07YLT9rsw/s320/DSC01892.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>We're not sure what the large underwear on Ken and Barbie mean, but the larger diorama is a critique of inaction over climate change. The lettered signs in the diorama read:<p></p><p>"It was the most beautiful planet of the universe; shame on you" and "Suicide" and, on the far left, with figurines of a creche, "Hope."</p><br /><br /><br /><p>From a saddle (yes, the Italians use the word too, "sella"), one can see the path to a tower (right) - we've never bothered to go there, because it's private and the 'path' is a road. The trail marker has estimated hours to the destination, not the distance.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTUacm3YpjlnpDykDxwSgm1Q-0IYou8xsGtyha3oi4Hf-WeEKb5PVReW6hfPXRtgR9hwavu4sfJDuUviv2yurcx4OPWiN0lRhJZKdt_3S4GpGKRSyBscGoxv-TAZwkGaCKkhepvJV4vIhPkJugJ_bWqncuQPbX-UEAWYkmr_qQVcdyrinFOzrxJZpndw/s5472/DSC01896.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTUacm3YpjlnpDykDxwSgm1Q-0IYou8xsGtyha3oi4Hf-WeEKb5PVReW6hfPXRtgR9hwavu4sfJDuUviv2yurcx4OPWiN0lRhJZKdt_3S4GpGKRSyBscGoxv-TAZwkGaCKkhepvJV4vIhPkJugJ_bWqncuQPbX-UEAWYkmr_qQVcdyrinFOzrxJZpndw/w640-h426/DSC01896.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbU-sNX58SyIg2xT68dx6y6hs2NZrovEkJvOxbqa0A8pmqD2dls8PssFrBuUk79z9TwmeOYFbz81VXc34uy20g3MeJJcOwyRjSlOcszmE1b7c_G6mPgVY_VKCHNTC69sSVb5DRmAN-zwcnold914U4q829nGeWvEp1ia6LlNjFpPVlnilLrWtgFkZgQ/s5472/gennaro%20cell%20towers.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbU-sNX58SyIg2xT68dx6y6hs2NZrovEkJvOxbqa0A8pmqD2dls8PssFrBuUk79z9TwmeOYFbz81VXc34uy20g3MeJJcOwyRjSlOcszmE1b7c_G6mPgVY_VKCHNTC69sSVb5DRmAN-zwcnold914U4q829nGeWvEp1ia6LlNjFpPVlnilLrWtgFkZgQ/s320/gennaro%20cell%20towers.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>There are some "ruins" where the funicular ended and a hotel was located. There are also way too many cell towers:<br /><p></p><p>One can take a small loop starting at this point (and get lost, but not very lost, except if it's foggy at the top - believe me, we've done it all). </p><p><br /></p><p>Here's AllTrails view of the mostly up-and-back trail, with its great switchbacks:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwPzVVUk0ntdV_aehaU6tMGSgp7vSypzT2vJJ417CqAWaRaBl4uAkb-EOPGbHt-w1xc3A6KopU_pgLZGrGIUbeUSp5UngdBvxqQPfAIbBab8mSQYzEoJs0bHgR5Q0btM78IG6-Uav0s7WaDJRHcKbcFGO6t-d9eNzTBUKFDHujgy3k4u4pS4BQBWIXQ/s1380/all%20trails%20gennaro.1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1237" data-original-width="1380" height="359" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHwPzVVUk0ntdV_aehaU6tMGSgp7vSypzT2vJJ417CqAWaRaBl4uAkb-EOPGbHt-w1xc3A6KopU_pgLZGrGIUbeUSp5UngdBvxqQPfAIbBab8mSQYzEoJs0bHgR5Q0btM78IG6-Uav0s7WaDJRHcKbcFGO6t-d9eNzTBUKFDHujgy3k4u4pS4BQBWIXQ/w400-h359/all%20trails%20gennaro.1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>We often run into a few people at the top. This day it was 2 trail runners (!!). They asked to have their photo taken with us, shocked at finding Americans on the peak, and then ran their merry way down the rocky summit.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBrct-SpQzRcq7T3ZMH0fU46cGPZ9GyH9jtf7YsjsCPclnsaZpysZJfnHIcK3qhJCO3DViLfwaUP9hTDVkHMMVGzbmmmnYUXQhlGc5_px0p2OX1VOzc5mCxf7siw7xis2VVY5IIBQHdT8Sy-MFoZWf7BZW6jUk-bLC6z-VoaYwDT_EBRD0uuJ2CivqsQ/s5472/DSC01903.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBrct-SpQzRcq7T3ZMH0fU46cGPZ9GyH9jtf7YsjsCPclnsaZpysZJfnHIcK3qhJCO3DViLfwaUP9hTDVkHMMVGzbmmmnYUXQhlGc5_px0p2OX1VOzc5mCxf7siw7xis2VVY5IIBQHdT8Sy-MFoZWf7BZW6jUk-bLC6z-VoaYwDT_EBRD0uuJ2CivqsQ/w400-h266/DSC01903.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The smaller peak with the tower is visible in the distance.<br />The two trail runners had an intense discussion below us about<br />their favorite power bars.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>And the gorgeous woods the switchbacks wind through, as we finish the journey:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_2WZ-zBCEaMhpZQhjNV2asWjbPCBLYILzUNckG-XCqcfALIER1SzY1M0sYjUouyZ-ytrJl68pcURlH55x65URXCtleXcef6-St3FL-9Y4jV9seyB4pe6TP7OcvN9YUmLGvvUjdqtKzxMr4WngW6nUjrYXj7Qmi9mSsi3W80lA1j3YcwHDMHxExFLlg/s5472/DSC01905.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_2WZ-zBCEaMhpZQhjNV2asWjbPCBLYILzUNckG-XCqcfALIER1SzY1M0sYjUouyZ-ytrJl68pcURlH55x65URXCtleXcef6-St3FL-9Y4jV9seyB4pe6TP7OcvN9YUmLGvvUjdqtKzxMr4WngW6nUjrYXj7Qmi9mSsi3W80lA1j3YcwHDMHxExFLlg/w640-h426/DSC01905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Dianne</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-42116932038512159622023-05-09T06:54:00.000-07:002023-05-09T06:54:11.108-07:00Caput Mundi Mall: You'll have it all to Yourself--If you can Get There<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT24Fz1CDjF-zIpJPdWVK_oxC2IcZm-0fpNgTP9Lqr8gNoRDik6YG7keABoPnZkIGsxZNiAOqxTtkJcdWjXEnZpWWncGZW1DSpbKW8UCPavsRwZV7G5KmMFEYxJ_7OSShFeMq7b9mavV3DVbaypdoo_1S89x8df1ZZ7xLPYK3k4LIDXfXdGIDjDYmM1w/s5472/DSC03881.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT24Fz1CDjF-zIpJPdWVK_oxC2IcZm-0fpNgTP9Lqr8gNoRDik6YG7keABoPnZkIGsxZNiAOqxTtkJcdWjXEnZpWWncGZW1DSpbKW8UCPavsRwZV7G5KmMFEYxJ_7OSShFeMq7b9mavV3DVbaypdoo_1S89x8df1ZZ7xLPYK3k4LIDXfXdGIDjDYmM1w/w400-h266/DSC03881.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We first learned about Caput Mundi, the new, luxury Rome shopping center that's a stone's throw from Saint Peter's, about a month ago, when it opened. The location seemed curious--elevated in an older building off via della Conciliazione--and we were eager to see how the developers had managed to squeeze a shopper's paradise into a crowded neighborhood of historic buildings. </p><p>The best access, as we later learned, is down via Padre Pfeiffer Pancrazio--there's a less-than-spectacular sign for Caput Mundi at the end of that street. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW56tnOm1dPa5p1gkyeNTi53fJphcDAzRypd4bgRaOo868jgQl3c1U3b7EhY3ddPS0i5iqRHstO7bLBJwULFYtAEnJCZKzqBKTUSsipRCRf-djseMY02IkZAdAkRGmKWVwyxssOk-LZwVT7Dm4jZiGdYCLWKR8kWtTMqTIt697UTTeleJ4QxjKmUfRTQ/s5472/DSC03895.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW56tnOm1dPa5p1gkyeNTi53fJphcDAzRypd4bgRaOo868jgQl3c1U3b7EhY3ddPS0i5iqRHstO7bLBJwULFYtAEnJCZKzqBKTUSsipRCRf-djseMY02IkZAdAkRGmKWVwyxssOk-LZwVT7Dm4jZiGdYCLWKR8kWtTMqTIt697UTTeleJ4QxjKmUfRTQ/s320/DSC03895.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>And beyond the sign, and closer to the front entrance, a less-than-inviting enclosure for the Carbinieri, taking something away from the welcoming Easter Egg. A typical hallway, ahead. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFcJJN37cDcfDD6ffH4gEL_nnzOkz2WXH1wgg6GUiI7E_HgDsxRdDLUg6Jb3VXLe4kugH_xu0JP-QandyyOLLwChQ3AHFKu5h3OG5XAHDeRSU7evwqQYM00wwP6MkAVP_ZAqe5UUGWHOXnb-4erisSBJVTW1gEF6p33sUK7a45i4vph5P1JR8Bw9JEQw/s5472/DSC03894.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFcJJN37cDcfDD6ffH4gEL_nnzOkz2WXH1wgg6GUiI7E_HgDsxRdDLUg6Jb3VXLe4kugH_xu0JP-QandyyOLLwChQ3AHFKu5h3OG5XAHDeRSU7evwqQYM00wwP6MkAVP_ZAqe5UUGWHOXnb-4erisSBJVTW1gEF6p33sUK7a45i4vph5P1JR8Bw9JEQw/w400-h266/DSC03894.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><br />But we missed what is intended to be the main entrance and found another, the "back door" entrance if you will, accessed off an underpass at Largo di Porta Cavalleggeri, almost directly south of the Vatican Obelisk. [It could be the "main" entrance is inside the "Gianicolo" bus parking garage - in an attempt to appeal to the thousands of tourists who "enter" the Vatican via tourist bus.]<div><br /><div><div>On our back-door excursion: we found ourselves in a lengthy (estimate: 1/4 mile) passageway, gradually elevating as we trudged along, virtually alone, an occasional moving walkway assisting in the ascent. We thought maybe the architects had modeled this entrance after the Metro walkways we love so much. On the way we stopped at the restrooms--one marked WOMAN, the other MAN.</div><div><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nrItyOX1KmqtMVzKVUx0-96DpvLlMOA23utyaUJ4K3W0_hgskU3H03xMIj8ZG9rPsk3HHF7EVE88yWTmjC6JM3q1nVUMAFK7oCZZDzlqVym3MLNMekHLHf_fQd7yvttbmrEnt5DkZ4hZDRynDbxoiZfXStDRxowVj9yoFklIVPE12Y42EGa6PP7-TQ/s5472/DSC03878.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nrItyOX1KmqtMVzKVUx0-96DpvLlMOA23utyaUJ4K3W0_hgskU3H03xMIj8ZG9rPsk3HHF7EVE88yWTmjC6JM3q1nVUMAFK7oCZZDzlqVym3MLNMekHLHf_fQd7yvttbmrEnt5DkZ4hZDRynDbxoiZfXStDRxowVj9yoFklIVPE12Y42EGa6PP7-TQ/w426-h640/DSC03878.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading on up to Caput Mundi. <br /><br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbZK2Rv_5kbtbj-ruLNEKcG_Kkxe5LNsakpRnDDHduVWWJobE6ck5urlsZ3lWaNCFnFTxcuzhadcUQkl6jcvJZLbUrKS1vc-q2g-J-k88NQYmypqUwOx7E3IpsSrXqI6Ps996ulB4MP8Q-XKpWcE92lYvjBLpbIAIc9wXbJBkqh_5z3RJQH-IqsszL0g/s5472/DSC03894.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbZK2Rv_5kbtbj-ruLNEKcG_Kkxe5LNsakpRnDDHduVWWJobE6ck5urlsZ3lWaNCFnFTxcuzhadcUQkl6jcvJZLbUrKS1vc-q2g-J-k88NQYmypqUwOx7E3IpsSrXqI6Ps996ulB4MP8Q-XKpWcE92lYvjBLpbIAIc9wXbJBkqh_5z3RJQH-IqsszL0g/s5472/DSC03894.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><p>At the end of the trek, an elevator brought us to the 5th floor, the door opening onto: CAPUT MUNDI: THE MALL!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBW2ppJbl76o0vzmRJvxNOYxLty6ojOXnPy0oplQiq-paGXCbYO5s2tvdKGDcR9qE8qj4kBk19v19Wt6QGY1lcalwo5Ze-yMZlXGv7nYpjsYhNjm05964xM0V4G9O4jFOgo1hU8i0m8824DG706enRpo3NpH0fUM0AHklAvu-4-Si0MyFF_BSdL8rD2Q/s5472/DSC03886.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBW2ppJbl76o0vzmRJvxNOYxLty6ojOXnPy0oplQiq-paGXCbYO5s2tvdKGDcR9qE8qj4kBk19v19Wt6QGY1lcalwo5Ze-yMZlXGv7nYpjsYhNjm05964xM0V4G9O4jFOgo1hU8i0m8824DG706enRpo3NpH0fUM0AHklAvu-4-Si0MyFF_BSdL8rD2Q/w640-h426/DSC03886.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>All on one floor, Caput Mundi has some of the feel of the most sophisticated of airport shopping areas: gleaming goods, perfectly arranged and presented: a bookstore, a candy shop, an upscale wine store, clothing of all kinds, several inviting places to eat, a pharmacy, a SONY pavilion where one can scratch the chin of an affectionate, responsive techno-dog, impressive art installations here and there (even a small exhibit of the work of Andy Warhol). A giraffe holding a lamp, or cage, or something, in its mouth. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggutpJEJDa4uSTpqHfCFjxG3WmaCb7i4WWHThDn6MVy4f5bT8gBIkqEUrWrARqoix4XkRg_2QnrtvL62FTTl1AiQWmm5jYamHSQloPUMXeue5lkvg8jY7qKdQ03n8pL8DyTt9KPfpNCbA-HbsidxxR2htqUkScWItTsfGyrKIxb9P15xZyDliryYWeEw/s5472/DSC03885.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggutpJEJDa4uSTpqHfCFjxG3WmaCb7i4WWHThDn6MVy4f5bT8gBIkqEUrWrARqoix4XkRg_2QnrtvL62FTTl1AiQWmm5jYamHSQloPUMXeue5lkvg8jY7qKdQ03n8pL8DyTt9KPfpNCbA-HbsidxxR2htqUkScWItTsfGyrKIxb9P15xZyDliryYWeEw/w400-h266/DSC03885.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaA5R8VjCXvah4BppCvWGoRKQJCw_FXdtM96xZ_hM4bvmO-jzNP4Du7SbykRyivvWyXahDcRk4W2bCP-y9LEX2sShN03bsGTZaHwWJOAXAvwN_xgjypdz-epYMSFWhRr16jiB11FelIJ3ENHU6nWniuV80DSzjr6ng6cRmNGBZ0gV8hE4U6_QgJD5aWA/s5472/DSC03889.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaA5R8VjCXvah4BppCvWGoRKQJCw_FXdtM96xZ_hM4bvmO-jzNP4Du7SbykRyivvWyXahDcRk4W2bCP-y9LEX2sShN03bsGTZaHwWJOAXAvwN_xgjypdz-epYMSFWhRr16jiB11FelIJ3ENHU6nWniuV80DSzjr6ng6cRmNGBZ0gV8hE4U6_QgJD5aWA/w400-h266/DSC03889.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYYchAmUq2mwUxYrWvaj2AD0-J61kQfRNXUznSjO7tOMLbeo2hQhpVhewSuO0Ie1cmAKDtegeJS2Agcm4tAoTmRVgVv2rb4w6flSUrPfx_W6CrbFWOAO2eh7ry115ecSVUovKoytnN-s8wueJqujVlZmXy9UzCq1kmCMG19PNrG85Xn0oHBF_fZMXFw/s5472/DSC03884.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYYchAmUq2mwUxYrWvaj2AD0-J61kQfRNXUznSjO7tOMLbeo2hQhpVhewSuO0Ie1cmAKDtegeJS2Agcm4tAoTmRVgVv2rb4w6flSUrPfx_W6CrbFWOAO2eh7ry115ecSVUovKoytnN-s8wueJqujVlZmXy9UzCq1kmCMG19PNrG85Xn0oHBF_fZMXFw/w266-h400/DSC03884.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This says it all. In the foreground, a thinker-type art work. In the background, <br />two workers taking advantage of the lack of customers to replace light bulbs.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-xKHWQAB2yYXoj589k7CsCTaaSZj48Z-Dnzb6Fmx6T6wyfGVL0q3uxmgxX2PzoxXp7rlcoxV1NokZoDk2nQAe05DVhfLo1D7T4xdOSlbyJz2IvFYV9wxcEexduTwsqFviBiYSw_vG2DktPddwn94qF8vXAPrli5EB-TeqNpKvY16LO1fBLajW5h7xg/s5472/DSC03888.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-xKHWQAB2yYXoj589k7CsCTaaSZj48Z-Dnzb6Fmx6T6wyfGVL0q3uxmgxX2PzoxXp7rlcoxV1NokZoDk2nQAe05DVhfLo1D7T4xdOSlbyJz2IvFYV9wxcEexduTwsqFviBiYSw_vG2DktPddwn94qF8vXAPrli5EB-TeqNpKvY16LO1fBLajW5h7xg/w640-h426/DSC03888.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oops! A shopper!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Quite a place. Except....except there were no shoppers. Well, maybe a half dozen (high-end estimate). Maybe. A helpful clerk Dianne chatted up told us the lack of shoppers was par for the course, except on the weekend, which implies most shoppers are not tourists but Romans. Every shop has a clerk, every coffee shop or lunch space is complete with cooks and servers. But nobody to serve, nobody to cook for, nobody to buy anything. Well, not quite. Dianne made a stop at the para-pharmacy (all goods OTC).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupss70g9LpXYa7AgOn4F11GZ6fnSqOYbqKgfbjVe2dBV7aC10VcsBgdK0k4yR0vdUINbvyKjLFRGy4KuuzGpnFS--2LQNMF7wCInSHnim1m0m8f1Vr7IYua8E_X7g5AMF5rSUJI8QIP_ORaITFGp9Vz5e3jJCI0sw5rYIKojocBTqDr7a6yH_N0cfGw/s5472/DSC03887.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupss70g9LpXYa7AgOn4F11GZ6fnSqOYbqKgfbjVe2dBV7aC10VcsBgdK0k4yR0vdUINbvyKjLFRGy4KuuzGpnFS--2LQNMF7wCInSHnim1m0m8f1Vr7IYua8E_X7g5AMF5rSUJI8QIP_ORaITFGp9Vz5e3jJCI0sw5rYIKojocBTqDr7a6yH_N0cfGw/s320/DSC03887.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Surreal. </p><p>Bill </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWJAfxnbYQ-wZVJffbSoxlzfPHOCz60dEPdBrWMXsZTUrljF9Ku253uMx3Z-_x35HDSo4kpRz5fBUiASWYxIQlg-hnvjrTVBJnigSfmlr-R-QYsoFIasVccSf58l_udHs0FaW_UhJ7_KWXFuHzVV1Q_uRQ4cxtyHOWnqZWZO8J44o4tCo2iNgEF2cVA/s5472/DSC03892.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWJAfxnbYQ-wZVJffbSoxlzfPHOCz60dEPdBrWMXsZTUrljF9Ku253uMx3Z-_x35HDSo4kpRz5fBUiASWYxIQlg-hnvjrTVBJnigSfmlr-R-QYsoFIasVccSf58l_udHs0FaW_UhJ7_KWXFuHzVV1Q_uRQ4cxtyHOWnqZWZO8J44o4tCo2iNgEF2cVA/w640-h426/DSC03892.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coochie Coochie</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /></div></div></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-58568748293454777252023-05-02T03:53:00.000-07:002023-05-02T03:53:16.959-07:00New Visions of the Evangelists at the Hungarian Academy in Rome - til May 13<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB0yLKLjm3vpmn49B4wq7SRDR7NNNXioqKF4LqaXQqwoqPrAVfQA4XzXKPAqZGJ5uXMksQyGJ0Vyr_5IjDE-RzcOuBnVPgq83FBWu5pgFbucviS-SA7AY8TadpjhGaEz1XXDXtMmWzF2B19Fxx3oye_z7VZ8Ss7Rf_1mZHBJUxhfSxMbUwjFz-FzqlGQ/s3874/St%20matt.1.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3874" data-original-width="2867" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB0yLKLjm3vpmn49B4wq7SRDR7NNNXioqKF4LqaXQqwoqPrAVfQA4XzXKPAqZGJ5uXMksQyGJ0Vyr_5IjDE-RzcOuBnVPgq83FBWu5pgFbucviS-SA7AY8TadpjhGaEz1XXDXtMmWzF2B19Fxx3oye_z7VZ8Ss7Rf_1mZHBJUxhfSxMbUwjFz-FzqlGQ/w296-h400/St%20matt.1.JPG" width="296" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The 4 apostles, a subject that does not always hold fascination for us, open the current exhibit at the <a href="https://culture.hu/it/roma" target="_blank">Hungarian Academy in Rome</a> (the exhibit is scheduled to close May 13). A glance at the poster seems to indicate a somewhat traditional portrait of one of the saints - in this case, Saint Matthew. We wandered into the exhibit nonetheless (being underwhelmed by the Wunderkammern group show across the street), informed by prior excellent shows at that Academy on via Giulia in Borromini's Palazzo Falconieri.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgBqWgffDZDTXeKRMCGYhg_0Lxi7d16q8EhmLe1qvvYiGLDbymbWpqNywOhcZmKl37UE_zNICsnjMPEd5bPzoSGrToZwBcfb0qNE0ndOB3EHGBf6nZABBtdhBN-AorR7uEpEpbYgsNt82Gso2HxxcX7yBVZDgsMH_3ppQ8AYD1QgdG905X1rRqNaDyw/s5472/st%20matt%20money.JPG" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgBqWgffDZDTXeKRMCGYhg_0Lxi7d16q8EhmLe1qvvYiGLDbymbWpqNywOhcZmKl37UE_zNICsnjMPEd5bPzoSGrToZwBcfb0qNE0ndOB3EHGBf6nZABBtdhBN-AorR7uEpEpbYgsNt82Gso2HxxcX7yBVZDgsMH_3ppQ8AYD1QgdG905X1rRqNaDyw/w213-h320/st%20matt%20money.JPG" width="213" /></a></p><p>And our wandering was rewarded. The portrait of St. Matthew, by artist <a href="http://www.erikmatrai.com/" target="_blank">Erik </a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #5f6368;"><a href="http://www.erikmatrai.com/" target="_blank">Mátrai</a></span>,</span> on closer look was composed of money, acknowledging Matthew's role as a tax collector ("publican") - photo at right. The other 4 apostles similarly were composed of materials reflecting their status. Below is St. Mark, whose name is tied to the blessing of the crops, made out of seeds of grain.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif_NwLgvIHhjSUQMAvLDAYUyON__ytZdS5oHlcDoydc2pQDa7fnRzGrbKEOEQVOeZneKymyjQMPbOiOIjrF6-mpJs8VMO7j7RYXPfIoEjrcZ_RK6IThFZmuX-_ZPg4bVnocPAN4lb5ln21YEtXZT3ibfGfeVvwVtPIuyo8GjU4JiBx37DsiOp2GC7m6Q/s4338/St%20Mark.1.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4338" data-original-width="3056" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif_NwLgvIHhjSUQMAvLDAYUyON__ytZdS5oHlcDoydc2pQDa7fnRzGrbKEOEQVOeZneKymyjQMPbOiOIjrF6-mpJs8VMO7j7RYXPfIoEjrcZ_RK6IThFZmuX-_ZPg4bVnocPAN4lb5ln21YEtXZT3ibfGfeVvwVtPIuyo8GjU4JiBx37DsiOp2GC7m6Q/w281-h400/St%20Mark.1.JPG" width="281" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Sts. Luke and John are at the end of the post.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The exhibit featured another spectacle of a work, very different from the 4 apostles, again by <span style="background-color: white; color: #5f6368;">Mátrai, this one using light and reflection (from a lamp source and from a curtained window in the Palazzo), as well as from one's own shadow.</span></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhY4ZrwlKvdoB6x8dy501i9BBH3jrgHxzBg1dnKv604azc429EnQDVj3NG6O58uvdSAnJLIsRDB_Z2dfitejNSzLVnnPQvMZjxMhHjTcGWBZy7JXqZMsrfIvt2fxIrxBnbq8LsPwxoFtPiFsv3TGCyGy1QJPkCTzu7flQnYEqmo4pdwFAULRW92jKa8w/s5472/DSC03796.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhY4ZrwlKvdoB6x8dy501i9BBH3jrgHxzBg1dnKv604azc429EnQDVj3NG6O58uvdSAnJLIsRDB_Z2dfitejNSzLVnnPQvMZjxMhHjTcGWBZy7JXqZMsrfIvt2fxIrxBnbq8LsPwxoFtPiFsv3TGCyGy1QJPkCTzu7flQnYEqmo4pdwFAULRW92jKa8w/w640-h426/DSC03796.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Here one can see more clearly the use of mirrors and shadows:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip90tNgXDCcUvH25U-jqqr_1s-5FbH-Glt8YO_q-CUPUDeT7LztdckW6dIJeSJK1RhoCxNfj8PuCpn6NbeELEDIXnchP8yq6tGAMcd9Br8wXTgAxOkBfh1FlYeDRtak9tev0asJZyo69ABqMypo22uHmwZLUn6qv1XUUOuD2CWQCBHOedWZoNANbZQ5g/s5472/DSC03797.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip90tNgXDCcUvH25U-jqqr_1s-5FbH-Glt8YO_q-CUPUDeT7LztdckW6dIJeSJK1RhoCxNfj8PuCpn6NbeELEDIXnchP8yq6tGAMcd9Br8wXTgAxOkBfh1FlYeDRtak9tev0asJZyo69ABqMypo22uHmwZLUn6qv1XUUOuD2CWQCBHOedWZoNANbZQ5g/w400-h266/DSC03797.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Works by 16 other artists play on the theme of the evangelists. Among those, we particularly liked Lajos Csont</span><span style="background-color: #f2f2f2; font-size: 16px;">ó'</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">s 12 disciples, wo are in essence real, ordinary, living people. His black and white photographs, accompanied by </span>brief<span style="font-family: inherit;"> texts, have some of the feel of Bill Viola's videos and stills.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCuemclqX46fKIhsKLjEQJ_HBaRO7HZvxNIDex1i-tlr0DwJqIn4ppv-OyIDJOvbwjTnracuksgGFDZWrG7LwkAPCDK1rXSiENI8BSJ2f9-LOgUTZMsN6i8MxZa3aDEe40R6MsMcEQZ5eRfQfWfDp-BEqE6K5sNmpks99C98t3PKb8UC_tHCQ6VmxIQ/s4408/12%20disc.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2957" data-original-width="4408" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCuemclqX46fKIhsKLjEQJ_HBaRO7HZvxNIDex1i-tlr0DwJqIn4ppv-OyIDJOvbwjTnracuksgGFDZWrG7LwkAPCDK1rXSiENI8BSJ2f9-LOgUTZMsN6i8MxZa3aDEe40R6MsMcEQZ5eRfQfWfDp-BEqE6K5sNmpks99C98t3PKb8UC_tHCQ6VmxIQ/w640-h430/12%20disc.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Bel<span style="font-family: inherit;">ow is Ilona Lovas's part i</span>nstallation/part painting/part sculpture on the washing of the feet:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztd8_n33OFneMmLOI2Jq4yabyK14WoHEc2usiplY0teizrYoboXugYJzLfTi7d_5yCw-WPtaW9_4Hm7UNapBRAPV5imqjWjWknerZb6UwVaV_kW2d3tm95G3O5_xLQiZnNXUdRIZmdZNHP4d4ZXFZmm_5dTCsbarI5N4dXNlMCvovOj9ANeTe8oRU8g/s5156/feet%20washing.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3580" data-original-width="5156" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztd8_n33OFneMmLOI2Jq4yabyK14WoHEc2usiplY0teizrYoboXugYJzLfTi7d_5yCw-WPtaW9_4Hm7UNapBRAPV5imqjWjWknerZb6UwVaV_kW2d3tm95G3O5_xLQiZnNXUdRIZmdZNHP4d4ZXFZmm_5dTCsbarI5N4dXNlMCvovOj9ANeTe8oRU8g/w640-h444/feet%20washing.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Rome is home to great contemporary religious art. The "furnishings" at <a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2017/05/sartogos-santo-volto-church-top-ten.html" target="_blank">Piero Sartogo's Santo Volto church, about which we've written</a>, are among them. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">And so too is this exhibit, "Vangelo 21" (21st Gospel), at the Hungarian Academy in Rome, via Giulia 1 (directly across from Wunderkammern Gallery), posted hours Monday through Friday 9:30-19:30.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Dianne</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQhqm4NsYRNRdE9WRJJqsjwp5cfktEL4Qwsuqey20TdOxhUIndgKQB3dScYqSEtsKX4dge7eo_I2kCuwDOSYzpqoLyf3P6okCERNqjVm3GTmEbx22KMvErXlkahLBojxruroVhkhGHxakQ_Co9HqFOhCAApxhxC72yrDQLC3GkU1MqmO4TwBpfn_yeQ/s4411/st%20luke.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4411" data-original-width="3411" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQhqm4NsYRNRdE9WRJJqsjwp5cfktEL4Qwsuqey20TdOxhUIndgKQB3dScYqSEtsKX4dge7eo_I2kCuwDOSYzpqoLyf3P6okCERNqjVm3GTmEbx22KMvErXlkahLBojxruroVhkhGHxakQ_Co9HqFOhCAApxhxC72yrDQLC3GkU1MqmO4TwBpfn_yeQ/s320/st%20luke.JPG" width="247" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Here's St. Luke, reportedly a painter and a patron of the arts. <span style="background-color: white;"><span>Mátrai composed this painting - of the artist/saint painting an icon - of pieces of paintings he did not complete.</span></span></span><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span><div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2MWynAaJXmkSlBc3VqgoJIW35EI0Uiu41KmBaKFQoL7FQ3reLDEjboUSYdMXjhWvEn-XytwU5FLYLrQxb0x4jyaBE3MJMKvOZxHiy25x8Om-x6cMhDIu06vacOxwNvI3p9BeaPAnoa0ArLTxZUPp7zCY9CZp35ks6UbTlJOXcWYJsgTOrCFY7_nSbjg/s933/st%20luke%20close%20up.JPG" style="clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="866" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2MWynAaJXmkSlBc3VqgoJIW35EI0Uiu41KmBaKFQoL7FQ3reLDEjboUSYdMXjhWvEn-XytwU5FLYLrQxb0x4jyaBE3MJMKvOZxHiy25x8Om-x6cMhDIu06vacOxwNvI3p9BeaPAnoa0ArLTxZUPp7zCY9CZp35ks6UbTlJOXcWYJsgTOrCFY7_nSbjg/w140-h151/st%20luke%20close%20up.JPG" width="140" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"> Close-up of St. Luke</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><div><br /><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span>And below, St. John, a writer and patron saint of writers. </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span>Mátrai uses the letters A, B, and C, and overlaps them to create the texture of the painting.</span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEC8GjS-kH7-kUnTG8CIyXYO1pY7XCsNv2m2Bwo_EUnZ_aDTZ6lW5jKu3ED7V93XKESeNUD-UVA-ZquGYXtnpf6z-X0gnQJHgVRdMZHDtf0GWsGDZcQ6oTmHgVX7XcCOMULe9X1uurmYNCyk2djZZQj35eh61irKmR1eY3M89sts9zr3lU5RYHbrV4yw/s4802/st%20john.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4802" data-original-width="3486" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEC8GjS-kH7-kUnTG8CIyXYO1pY7XCsNv2m2Bwo_EUnZ_aDTZ6lW5jKu3ED7V93XKESeNUD-UVA-ZquGYXtnpf6z-X0gnQJHgVRdMZHDtf0GWsGDZcQ6oTmHgVX7XcCOMULe9X1uurmYNCyk2djZZQj35eh61irKmR1eY3M89sts9zr3lU5RYHbrV4yw/w332-h458/st%20john.JPG" width="332" /></a></div></span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkcomfywl_lcaYZDciwQ5QZ4x-mhHBZGoafxYnTPuTbWK2PC0tbwqU9H5OT0APfYPjQBbQZoKgkUBMNvvYCgubWY2hTTqe3s1kQ5k5zeTTbXvM3WAM3zLWj75txswOxGYp9pleQyjZQGq5-FIjJxs_v8S-pJF3wiyHj9gmiBGLQp2JvI5YoK4_MPLug/s1412/st%20john%20close%20up.JPG" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1412" data-original-width="909" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkcomfywl_lcaYZDciwQ5QZ4x-mhHBZGoafxYnTPuTbWK2PC0tbwqU9H5OT0APfYPjQBbQZoKgkUBMNvvYCgubWY2hTTqe3s1kQ5k5zeTTbXvM3WAM3zLWj75txswOxGYp9pleQyjZQGq5-FIjJxs_v8S-pJF3wiyHj9gmiBGLQp2JvI5YoK4_MPLug/w102-h158/st%20john%20close%20up.JPG" width="102" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St John, close-up</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #5f6368;"><br /></span><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-5125931443235128362023-04-25T05:54:00.000-07:002023-04-25T05:54:19.111-07:00Quilted: Dealing with the Spring "'Chill," ala Romana <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8YvjYDX_15ZketKjZIi0qH6MvGIzAX0JW4dKY8X0ywTS0l_0xEoaDFyxSNmMe7oBKDC5iiNykovFHiSkG-HO72jTgGDYvB1bCyZ_f9sTgXiCKhRnxGwdrsfpFtzyrBGoTNSr6W3XGYusvlPLZBEhq04xqhOwbhInEu2R-Ib7l3OziOMu8ploX_YvGA/s5472/DSC03785.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8YvjYDX_15ZketKjZIi0qH6MvGIzAX0JW4dKY8X0ywTS0l_0xEoaDFyxSNmMe7oBKDC5iiNykovFHiSkG-HO72jTgGDYvB1bCyZ_f9sTgXiCKhRnxGwdrsfpFtzyrBGoTNSr6W3XGYusvlPLZBEhq04xqhOwbhInEu2R-Ib7l3OziOMu8ploX_YvGA/w640-h426/DSC03785.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>It's that in between season, when you don't know whether to bundle up or go for the lighter jacket. Romans know how to handle the spring chill: they're bubble wrapped, happy in their quilted outerwear. Based on a few informal surveys, about half--no joke--of our Re-di-Roma-area sample (or via Nazionale, as in the 2nd photo, or Valle Aurelia, as in the other non-manikin photos) were sporting quilted garb. It's a thing.</p><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtgn9E9_7DgYbAwTxzIKFnYU4sSdUBTEM6f2yCQuBEyccxV7BLjnly-dvCIKsZsy_01yCoZKB7OZ7YHMbeAOaZwDd8D5VE8XWYqlyMhXiSBFcc93ijmlaVdUEtWhuIUG972uP4bNi9fij8R_MS45lHlDMBbmlxl1Kc8-Hc-uNL2aqb8EvtIHBe1a5_Uw/s3639/DSC03788.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3636" data-original-width="3639" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtgn9E9_7DgYbAwTxzIKFnYU4sSdUBTEM6f2yCQuBEyccxV7BLjnly-dvCIKsZsy_01yCoZKB7OZ7YHMbeAOaZwDd8D5VE8XWYqlyMhXiSBFcc93ijmlaVdUEtWhuIUG972uP4bNi9fij8R_MS45lHlDMBbmlxl1Kc8-Hc-uNL2aqb8EvtIHBe1a5_Uw/w640-h640/DSC03788.2.JPG" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglHARVyks1ZlD-CeNMGnoXtwVZ2GxjRwBYwqtTU5maGntB0OYOJB5r6K85djr-94lNXR2w3YWly50UekD3K4W9nN37x4MpfQk0vVKNECzeMatt8PCuH6BhhAumIkyXAfHcHtkw_rwvMZpl6MMs_U_cpeTiwnrCJVo2PwgdvBLTcyaosu01NzMiP8UMFQ/s3667/DSC03903.2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2447" data-original-width="3667" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglHARVyks1ZlD-CeNMGnoXtwVZ2GxjRwBYwqtTU5maGntB0OYOJB5r6K85djr-94lNXR2w3YWly50UekD3K4W9nN37x4MpfQk0vVKNECzeMatt8PCuH6BhhAumIkyXAfHcHtkw_rwvMZpl6MMs_U_cpeTiwnrCJVo2PwgdvBLTcyaosu01NzMiP8UMFQ/w640-h428/DSC03903.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVabbW6uIvbP6omtL1-v2umA_vdGdTB_DBGwRVS9ASvhwVd_HIotSuy6SF7F1orZJSeva7OhwxR74y0JwcxPd7AqP2ax_Juednp6XmOBGIul72z12JP8VbKzzKOycOQAG4VJ6WDYEf571i_onTQG1ZsIlOEJE-2QLDjtW0ih8WIrW5301cv3hI1Wf-BA/s2667/DSC03917.2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="1772" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVabbW6uIvbP6omtL1-v2umA_vdGdTB_DBGwRVS9ASvhwVd_HIotSuy6SF7F1orZJSeva7OhwxR74y0JwcxPd7AqP2ax_Juednp6XmOBGIul72z12JP8VbKzzKOycOQAG4VJ6WDYEf571i_onTQG1ZsIlOEJE-2QLDjtW0ih8WIrW5301cv3hI1Wf-BA/w266-h400/DSC03917.2.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpnJqdCc2TRB-6zF87VsZuZ2p8vok1BDoPDrMsP8iqGQtE9-WpPU8xUUL_-6vmxfR8CY5fZ04e9kclzIdgeeXl8TtcRz07c1Vz-7u0r_3PKLcEhF6M18Oy40-pzz7LgwHEG78zJidMwnnA-kiZo1sLwe1dkr3LRS39mLF1e4Xre0eZBAp5GPSeJL3n9A/s5472/DSC03854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpnJqdCc2TRB-6zF87VsZuZ2p8vok1BDoPDrMsP8iqGQtE9-WpPU8xUUL_-6vmxfR8CY5fZ04e9kclzIdgeeXl8TtcRz07c1Vz-7u0r_3PKLcEhF6M18Oy40-pzz7LgwHEG78zJidMwnnA-kiZo1sLwe1dkr3LRS39mLF1e4Xre0eZBAp5GPSeJL3n9A/w426-h640/DSC03854.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p>Bill </p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-6672225531670524052023-04-18T08:44:00.000-07:002023-04-18T08:44:08.897-07:00Diablo Vive: The Life and Death of a Lazio "Ultra" <p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMUmImVNcLH97ONRNmZvUnk6LROpRs3mPb-ln7KqUdlbFbOUuBKm_S7GaCGKOjXDXTsB2WEpTp4Vq2wWQ-0Es1RmAbOHUyGNVM4xyxDvlvHi4RT5D1l9TeZkfkapg4m90JskaWXzIC32p1vfxR5BBdt0qEr1eSybIVDDoty-1zUFBKC0qWRsX4fGbug/s5472/DSC03728.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtMUmImVNcLH97ONRNmZvUnk6LROpRs3mPb-ln7KqUdlbFbOUuBKm_S7GaCGKOjXDXTsB2WEpTp4Vq2wWQ-0Es1RmAbOHUyGNVM4xyxDvlvHi4RT5D1l9TeZkfkapg4m90JskaWXzIC32p1vfxR5BBdt0qEr1eSybIVDDoty-1zUFBKC0qWRsX4fGbug/w426-h640/DSC03728.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p>Diablo. Diablo, face and name, are all over the in-the-city Tuscolana neighborhood, around Piazza Re di Roma, where we're living on this trip to Rome. </p><p>And who is Diablo? Diablo, aka Diabolik, is (that is, was) Fabrizio Piscitelli, the "capo"/head of the Lazio Ultras, a far-right organization of fans of the Lazio football team, the arch-rival of AS-Roma (both teams play in Rome, Lazio being the name of the province). In the photo below, Diablo is closely associated with Gabriele Sandri, also an Ultra fan of the Lazio team. In 2007, while on the road to a game with rival Milan, Sandri was shot and killed at an Autostrada service area by a highway patrol police officer. (<a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/12/gabbo-death-and-life-of-gabriele-sandri.html" target="_blank">We wrote about the latter, "Gabbo," in 2011</a>.)</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0yKevgmQqnCP7lmVVlItsOalq-B8Tog-cfPqvj5aS4NQlWnwtKSRmZKhvG47pd69QOFMV2w5OPTfBnOg0vA_5012Xi8yH3Psyk37cm5udfuVvcpqMi0MEDFfHCAiGjjKSu24YjlOnMxNmJ1Wb8jTcjdJPUaXF9QXhJE-Vr9WTzmiKJscuu_bRrnCDg/s5472/DSC03767.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0yKevgmQqnCP7lmVVlItsOalq-B8Tog-cfPqvj5aS4NQlWnwtKSRmZKhvG47pd69QOFMV2w5OPTfBnOg0vA_5012Xi8yH3Psyk37cm5udfuVvcpqMi0MEDFfHCAiGjjKSu24YjlOnMxNmJ1Wb8jTcjdJPUaXF9QXhJE-Vr9WTzmiKJscuu_bRrnCDg/w640-h426/DSC03767.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p>Diablo was shot, twice, in the back of the head, on August 7, 2019, while sitting on a bench at Parco degli Aquedotti (<a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/07/rst-top-40-2-park-of-aqueducts.html" target="_blank">Aqueduct Park - #2 on RST's Top 40!</a>), off via Tuscolana, southwest of the city center. (It doesn't take a genius to figure out that if wall-writing says "X vive" ("X lives"), X is dead.) </p><p>Diablo's killer, disguised as a jogger, was later identified by video surveillance cameras. In the newspaper photo below (published April 15, 2023), Diablo, having just been shot, is circled in red. The presumed shooter, Raul Esteban Calderon (circled in blue as he flees the scene), was found guilty of a second shooting (of another person) and sentenced to 12 years in prison. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk7cppefqdSAm2duLJ2XVJpkuc1QJ_c3gqRZ70sDR1b72MG-cIScgmhc6zKEhur8wZX_Wc1cAEdCC1riNZCNiZOXAHUd6Dh9kx1UZsFEQf6nRDsnDYBdakojXX6F2cCdzjolK2LGqLX8U5cx7gMxS43Vw5e0c1VPwI28PoaFV9g5waIKKX0J1NsN21pQ/s5472/DSC03809.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk7cppefqdSAm2duLJ2XVJpkuc1QJ_c3gqRZ70sDR1b72MG-cIScgmhc6zKEhur8wZX_Wc1cAEdCC1riNZCNiZOXAHUd6Dh9kx1UZsFEQf6nRDsnDYBdakojXX6F2cCdzjolK2LGqLX8U5cx7gMxS43Vw5e0c1VPwI28PoaFV9g5waIKKX0J1NsN21pQ/w640-h426/DSC03809.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Piscitelli had risen to prominence within the Irriducibili, an extreme group of fringe fans of the Lazio team. In 2015, he was sentenced to 4 years and 6 months in prison for trading in drugs. </p><p>Bill </p><p>From Dianne - why are such lowlifes revered?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7pyUS-w-iOvlJkrGU6D5dpFHlVx3IHYt53n36-MdzbFHX8qUPJ20hsGJLcKN8UwlBpgneLGyGfByxGF1BkXgwDJPlsjCsA46h9uIpthJ6zOqvXfyZiI8rr3fVj8m3OH-Tilhtyd0CcFxC-8PXicSHuN6IFDbOOY2uJXva7Df_2DMXol4JEW0s8o40Q/s5472/DSC03849.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7pyUS-w-iOvlJkrGU6D5dpFHlVx3IHYt53n36-MdzbFHX8qUPJ20hsGJLcKN8UwlBpgneLGyGfByxGF1BkXgwDJPlsjCsA46h9uIpthJ6zOqvXfyZiI8rr3fVj8m3OH-Tilhtyd0CcFxC-8PXicSHuN6IFDbOOY2uJXva7Df_2DMXol4JEW0s8o40Q/w426-h640/DSC03849.2.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWAzspq36XeMW2Z1ZgLCB77agyuQU7nk0AZ4o1j5ndN_JdZ08QYprQAuemdHHThmLWnMiFCT7IRUFKKhsx2GEue_ZBml-GbjdaWmeTLm-Ov8yLU84mJ1UNeQ27Dq-KW9DaatqBEMSrt66LiW3DZe_HCaymHjVf7Ex0-8czp5xsV9En9EYoaUAr1VIMQ/s5472/DSC03870.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWAzspq36XeMW2Z1ZgLCB77agyuQU7nk0AZ4o1j5ndN_JdZ08QYprQAuemdHHThmLWnMiFCT7IRUFKKhsx2GEue_ZBml-GbjdaWmeTLm-Ov8yLU84mJ1UNeQ27Dq-KW9DaatqBEMSrt66LiW3DZe_HCaymHjVf7Ex0-8czp5xsV9En9EYoaUAr1VIMQ/w640-h426/DSC03870.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-69548831625275463052023-03-30T14:06:00.004-07:002023-04-01T14:33:04.037-07:00To Dub or Not to Dub? Rome Has the Answer<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIaqiffGodCSGDrRG_1-CzoTYXldGeqqG3XGGSRd0LVIKmNXbZacbh2spkFfB7sreUnMvlUbIi6z16ylDJXCF6I4DQnD8ZDQ4GrL_1wttQ4UdmfH8IlTmeTZ7NknNTLGUAA0F2YkJYkgrgh_AXaSYMDkX2-Phy6Sje5Zn4S4zc1Yd_i05Brla3Jzx-pA/s626/proietti%20on%20coloseo.1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="626" height="552" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIaqiffGodCSGDrRG_1-CzoTYXldGeqqG3XGGSRd0LVIKmNXbZacbh2spkFfB7sreUnMvlUbIi6z16ylDJXCF6I4DQnD8ZDQ4GrL_1wttQ4UdmfH8IlTmeTZ7NknNTLGUAA0F2YkJYkgrgh_AXaSYMDkX2-Phy6Sje5Zn4S4zc1Yd_i05Brla3Jzx-pA/w640-h552/proietti%20on%20coloseo.1.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">The prestige of Italian dubbers is obvious in this projection on Rome's Coliseum of dubber Gigi Proietti the day after his 2020 death at 80. Proietti "voiced" Robert
De Niro, Sylvester Stallone, Richard Burton, Richard Harris, Dustin Hoffman,
Paul Newman, Charlton Heston and Marlon Brando.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><br /></span><span>To dub or
not to dub; that is...not a silly question. Italians especially
have taught us the value of a dubber (</span><i>doppiatore</i><span>, literally a “doubler”),
make that “voice actor,” a respected profession in Italy.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><br /></span><span style="line-height: 107%;">The value
Italians give to the craft is exhibited by what are known as the
“Italian Oscars”—The International Grand Prize of Dubbing,<i> il Gran Premio
Internazionale del Doppiaggio</i>. The 14<sup>th</sup> annual prizes were handed out at the recent March 27 ceremonies. Italians’ attraction to
dubbed films was also underscored recently, when the dubbers went on strike for 3
weeks, protesting a contract that expired 12 years ago. As a consequence, no dubbing
took place, and no shows were aired dubbed. When, during the strike
(it’s now on pause), Sky TV streamed the 7<sup>th</sup> episode of HBO’s
smash hit “The Last of Us” in its original language, English, Italian audiences
reportedly were disoriented.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirtsR7na9h5iEd3MaW9TMcGa9DwJZHOf8TltpAqroY14xYx_qOCRgoa1BDP7WIWnTnPyqsc85U2gLbY-TVQC-aUQKbqr7hGantaoUCo1KgHG6tA8dw0r1aj71veY5gVP7HY2c6r_xKrZppeHdB4t9DFF11krvc4Kc_2Lx4snXmyeyC8QD9JB47tdF_HA/s1410/simone%20dandrea.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1011" data-original-width="1410" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirtsR7na9h5iEd3MaW9TMcGa9DwJZHOf8TltpAqroY14xYx_qOCRgoa1BDP7WIWnTnPyqsc85U2gLbY-TVQC-aUQKbqr7hGantaoUCo1KgHG6tA8dw0r1aj71veY5gVP7HY2c6r_xKrZppeHdB4t9DFF11krvc4Kc_2Lx4snXmyeyC8QD9JB47tdF_HA/w320-h229/simone%20dandrea.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Above, Simone D'Andrea, who won the jury prize<br />for "Best Male Voice" this year for his dubbing<br />of Colin Farrell in "The Banshees of Inishirin.</i>"<br /><i>He's also known for anime voicing.</i><br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NFHPTRPmFPURZucknWHwuXVz3NkbH_E52q7KpjZC1qHKuiZmchQboQGyePvoTVT8ufI_lQNVveT5ALlR0SdhkY1upWV4aHhajSsIrd45fF5OcZiwszOD1g-DAd-uFHVWt7lpJgRMVzlesigiujoSik2tRpxYoaB_WEvW7Rgs3BD-9wmGXqAd1XWEYQ/s554/chiara%20colizzi%20dubber.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="554" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NFHPTRPmFPURZucknWHwuXVz3NkbH_E52q7KpjZC1qHKuiZmchQboQGyePvoTVT8ufI_lQNVveT5ALlR0SdhkY1upWV4aHhajSsIrd45fF5OcZiwszOD1g-DAd-uFHVWt7lpJgRMVzlesigiujoSik2tRpxYoaB_WEvW7Rgs3BD-9wmGXqAd1XWEYQ/w200-h200/chiara%20colizzi%20dubber.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Chiara Colizzi won this year's jury<br />award at the International Grand<br />Prize for Dubbing for "Best <br /> Female Voice" for her dubbing of<br /> Michele Williams in "The<br />Fablemans." She's also been<br />the voice of Nicole Kidman<br />and Kate Winslet.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table></div><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span><p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Unlike most
Italians, Americans generally devalue dubbed films. For those of us who were
introduced to “foreign films” in church basements or tiny art houses, “dubbed”
films were considered vastly inferior to subtitled ones. We might not have
known one word in Swedish, but we considered it critical to hear the sounds of
the original actors in those Ingmar Bergman classics. Were we wrong?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Edward
Lynch, a dual citizen and multi-lingual professor in Rome, who created a
website devoted to films in original language showing in that capital city, seems
to be the perfect person to defend subtitles. But, like us, he’s modified his
views somewhat over the years. “I used to see dubbing as something really bad.
But maybe it’s not all that bad. The problem in Italy was that there wasn’t
much of a choice in the past. All films were dubbed.”<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr18xvidI9yiZdsqeXPsZZ4YdMSlYgqpJTAYsFo_aFr46460fF0ElsdZwv_nLDW-tWACiqwp6UavWw9xTbil1oTB2R6DJ9AVZz9bCgU0B_Vl8Y1s-1Hi3ovF05cRZoBmQyKfCaYgqHfAVpvak0ViMwe5dvGLAahIoEL5kc3lKONvRRG_i6reAAoD9FoA/s1200/Giancarlo%20Giannini.Al%20Pacino%20%20Leo%20giulott.Joe%20Pesci%20Stefano%20De%20Sando%20De%20Niro.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr18xvidI9yiZdsqeXPsZZ4YdMSlYgqpJTAYsFo_aFr46460fF0ElsdZwv_nLDW-tWACiqwp6UavWw9xTbil1oTB2R6DJ9AVZz9bCgU0B_Vl8Y1s-1Hi3ovF05cRZoBmQyKfCaYgqHfAVpvak0ViMwe5dvGLAahIoEL5kc3lKONvRRG_i6reAAoD9FoA/w400-h300/Giancarlo%20Giannini.Al%20Pacino%20%20Leo%20giulott.Joe%20Pesci%20Stefano%20De%20Sando%20De%20Niro.jpg" width="400" /></span></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Above, the dubbers at left of three leads in "The Godfather." <br />From the top, Giancarlo Giannini (a famous actor in his own right)<br /> for Al Pacino, Leo Gullotta for Joe Pesci, and Stefano De Santo <br />for Robert De Niro.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lynch points
to “Parasite,” the 2019 Korean movie that went on to win the Oscar for Best Picture, one of the few foreign films to do so. He saw it with subtitles, and
says that by spending time focusing on reading the words, “I think I missed a
lot.” He adds, “Even if it’s in a language I don’t know, I want to see it in
the original with subtitles. But maybe I’m being too stubborn. I think I would
have liked to have seen ‘Parasite’ dubbed.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Dubbing may
be coming more into its own internationally with streaming. The film that won
this year’s Oscar for Best Foreign Film, Germany’s “All Quiet on the Western
Front,” was offered (on Netflix) in several versions, including a dubbed
English version. A non-German speaker can choose to watch it either dubbed or
subtitled. Streaming at home would seem to encourage this multiplicity of
versions.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">At least in
Rome, one also has some of that choice at Director Nanni Moretti’s “Nuovo
Sacher” theater in Trastevere, where the programming alternates showing a film one night dubbed
in Italian and another in “v.o.”, <i>versione originale</i> (original version,
i.e. with subtitles). Lynch asked the Nuovo Sacher box office whether one
version was more popular than the other, and they responded that each attracted
about the same number of viewers. Bear in mind, Nuovo Sacher is essentially an
art house, attracting a clientele that might lean more towards subtitles than would
the general public.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Italians’
attraction to dubbing means that Italy is one of the world’s premier dubbing
countries. Along with France and Germany, it historically resisted subtitling
on the grounds that dubbing would better promote the country’s native language.
A perhaps unintended consequence is that people in Northern European countries
(like the Scandinavian ones) speak English more readily, because they’ve been
hearing the original more often.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YQL26Ykvy5pdnj7IL82GL4UNGNsywF1owPQcPnD3TLE-5pfHlEcExp2oywTn9nDw_gZlKVg9fwTP5aZh56ahRUfxmnhQSYRKciqevoVmjDmj2j-97gB52YU1e2xAviy86kOQOmZI4AVgdNAw4UecoY4oTLqoA90iPHAxpfW2949Y1vGUdrTfE2eLzw/s1231/map%20of%20dubbing%20and%20subtitling.cropped.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1231" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YQL26Ykvy5pdnj7IL82GL4UNGNsywF1owPQcPnD3TLE-5pfHlEcExp2oywTn9nDw_gZlKVg9fwTP5aZh56ahRUfxmnhQSYRKciqevoVmjDmj2j-97gB52YU1e2xAviy86kOQOmZI4AVgdNAw4UecoY4oTLqoA90iPHAxpfW2949Y1vGUdrTfE2eLzw/w400-h316/map%20of%20dubbing%20and%20subtitling.cropped.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="line-height: 17.12px;">This map of dubbing and subtitling depicts</span></i><br /><i>in red the countries where dubbing is used </i><br /><i>exclusively in film and TV; in blue, the countries</i><br /><i>where dubbing is exclusively for </i><i>children's fare</i><br /><i>and all else is subtitled. Orange are countries that</i><br /><i>use dubbing occasionally, </i><i>but otherwise only subtitling.<br /><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;">By now the
Italian public is accustomed to dubbing, a practice dating back to the Fascist era. The first dubbing facility opened in Rome in 1932. Under a 1934 law, dubbing was required to be done in Italy by
Italians to obtain screening permits. Other reasons given for the more expensive practice of dubbing, over subtitling,
is that Italy had a relatively high illiteracy rate in that era, 21% in 1931,
and that standard Italian did not start to become widespread until the 1950s
(helped by dubbers). Apparently part of the Marshall Plan money after World War
II also went into dubbing so that American movies could be popularized in the
Italian market. Dubbing (as well as subtitling) also allowed a kind of stealth censorship.
In 1943’s “Casablanca,” Rick (Humphrey Bogart) helped the Ethiopians against the Italian Army. In the Italian dubbed version, there’s no mention of this; instead Rick fought
with Spaniards against the Fascists.</span><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span>In 2018, 570,000
minutes were dubbed by professionals in Italy, and likely even more are being
dubbed today. A 2019 headline in the </span><i>Hollywood Reporter</i><span> blared,
“Netflix’s Global Reach Sparks Dubbing Debate: ‘The Public Demands It.’” One of
their VP’s explained, “People say they prefer the original, but our figures
show they watch the dubbed version.” Netflix now works with more than 100
facilities worldwide to meet increasing demand for dubbed content. It has 7
dubbing-approved studios in Italy, 6 of those in Rome.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><br /></span><span style="line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7VNmbB1AN6UbiuwSOR7UBXyB7iLV3ry-D9-9e0998em8EeCBaQgEtNmCeRf-SDkVTrDiQ0_AOvCa0lmtKnLrtm68z3GxKIOiEVbWxnzNrnugulTAcqdw0mZQe2O8B_7C5QbwQBPzLN7cUJomz11BW_zePZnZ4dxS9o7AYY7dj0qxxNLh-Hm9RiCUeA/s540/gandalf%20proietti.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="253" data-original-width="540" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7VNmbB1AN6UbiuwSOR7UBXyB7iLV3ry-D9-9e0998em8EeCBaQgEtNmCeRf-SDkVTrDiQ0_AOvCa0lmtKnLrtm68z3GxKIOiEVbWxnzNrnugulTAcqdw0mZQe2O8B_7C5QbwQBPzLN7cUJomz11BW_zePZnZ4dxS9o7AYY7dj0qxxNLh-Hm9RiCUeA/s320/gandalf%20proietti.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Proietti, right, who voiced Gandalf (Ian McKellen)<br />in the "Lord of the Rings" series.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">There are
schools and programs in Italy today dedicated to dubbing. It’s considered a
high art form there, equivalent to regular acting. The voice actors, as they
prefer to be called, are famous throughout the country, as the “Italian Oscars”
demonstrate. Roman Gigi Proietti, who died in 2020 at age 80, began as a stage
and film actor, but he was most famous for his voice acting. As with many other
voice actors, Proietti was the voice of multiple stars, among them Robert De
Niro, Sylvester Stallone, Richard Burton, Richard Harris, Dustin Hoffman, Paul
Newman, Charlton Heston and Marlon Brando. When Hoffman, De Niro or Stallone
make new films, Italians will have a tough adjustment to make.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Italians
like dubbed films because, says Lynch, “they can recognize all the
dubbed voices. It’s something that the Italian audience gets used to, these
actors who dub and always dub the same actors.”</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><br /></span><span style="line-height: 107%;"></span></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim66kkvHw1Io1-_TbGsmde0Nv7DiSGMF8_3xv-7bKaUMQZLS6Ta2w0hq9Zjk5iVKS4baYZNP7-oIoMx69WeSQGEcX8-Uvt6p7DEwM9Gk6BUA8gsVthwUW0fG8tkYaoeH5n4s8Xp9-cZEdx2k1sMb9YniT6rqM1f9gGEIQMFUzJ5anQ8hMyH3JIX5n1cQ/s2048/proietti%20tufello.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim66kkvHw1Io1-_TbGsmde0Nv7DiSGMF8_3xv-7bKaUMQZLS6Ta2w0hq9Zjk5iVKS4baYZNP7-oIoMx69WeSQGEcX8-Uvt6p7DEwM9Gk6BUA8gsVthwUW0fG8tkYaoeH5n4s8Xp9-cZEdx2k1sMb9YniT6rqM1f9gGEIQMFUzJ5anQ8hMyH3JIX5n1cQ/w225-h400/proietti%20tufello.JPG" width="225" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Proietti was recently honored with<br />an enormous mural on a wall in the<br />Tufello quarter of Rome, the<br />working class area where he was<br />born and raised.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">It’s hard
not to see those many flyers and ads around Rome that promote dubbing schools. The field generally is referred to as audiovisual translation or AVT, and is popular in all of Europe. Massimo Vizzaccaro is a professor at one of the more illustrious of those
schools (one that doesn’t have to slap paste-ups on telephone poles). The
program at his university is an intensive 12-month <i>Master di Primo Livello</i>
(“Master’s first level”; the full name is <i>Master in traduzione e adattamento
delle opere audiovisivi e multimediali per il doppiaggio e il sottotitolo </i>-
“Master’s in translation and adaptation of audiovisual and multimedia works for
dubbing and subtitling” or Master TEA for short). To apply, one must
have a (minimum) 3-year undergraduate degree.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">“It’s a
hands-on course,” says Vizzaccaro, “because these students are physically taken
into dubbing studios; so they see how you need to work.” It’s the longest
standing program of its type in Italy, founded some 20 years ago by Sergio Patou Patucchi, a scholar of the subject who was the voice of, among
others, Yogi Bear and his companion Boo-Boo. The program also provides a
number of different courses, including Vizzaccaro’s own “British and American
Civilizations.” His course is essential, the Roman professor points out,
because to be good at their trade, dubbers need to understand the culture that
produces the content they are dubbing.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><br /></span><span style="line-height: 107%;"></span></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBXJZ3QWgWfaotSg3o4uUZq5KS7RDoC0s33e9ZK_kcTeIHjdzj9BAqDQyjHDpeh_VSy1t1tT0WnAT_HhOttVpoBA_CwoRvA04hzTcNHfPU0SdbhYxrve58GFrG3WYmranCB1VAc-d0-QkeSxjpuiLSJ6Lwr_feE6Uc3c55wkobVBlnjCpJrA65jeADRA/s1080/amendola%20w%20stallone.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBXJZ3QWgWfaotSg3o4uUZq5KS7RDoC0s33e9ZK_kcTeIHjdzj9BAqDQyjHDpeh_VSy1t1tT0WnAT_HhOttVpoBA_CwoRvA04hzTcNHfPU0SdbhYxrve58GFrG3WYmranCB1VAc-d0-QkeSxjpuiLSJ6Lwr_feE6Uc3c55wkobVBlnjCpJrA65jeADRA/s320/amendola%20w%20stallone.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ferruccio Amendola, left, the "king"<br />of voice actors before his 2001 death,<br />with one of his actors: Sylvester Stallone.<br /><br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Schools
notwithstanding, a lot of the business in Italy is passed through the family,
like many other Italian professions (e.g. notaries – a much more important
position there than in the U.S.), Vizzaccaro notes. (“Nepo babies” are also
common in Hollywood, as we know.) Carlo Valli, the voice of Robin Williams
among many others, and Cristina Giachero (voice of Scarlett Johanssen and Laura
Dern among dozens) are the parents of two voice actors, Ruggero and Arturo,
both of whom got their start as voices of children or animated figures (Arturo as the young Andy in “Toy Story”). Ferruccio Amendola, considered the
“king” of voice actors (before his 2001 death, he voiced De Niro, Stallone and
Hoffman), was married to voice actress Rita Savignone (Vanessa Redgrave, Whoopi
Goldberg).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ihPe5OaAw1R1F47QweyNQ79FW_RAPG-DHL_4JC__RevQn0EU9xlqxTlk8LtMqzFZHUIqmrroxPiE_q-d4wBTBeexeXdCqxeYLLATAPd1bz6PRt59HmM7l78bX1nsAiLUt9T4igYPG2piL6mWf5mkskoAHVUThZ9wM0R0oLngfP0PGAiji-7nYTXO5A/s700/robin%20williams%20and%20valli%2025%20years.1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="410" data-original-width="700" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ihPe5OaAw1R1F47QweyNQ79FW_RAPG-DHL_4JC__RevQn0EU9xlqxTlk8LtMqzFZHUIqmrroxPiE_q-d4wBTBeexeXdCqxeYLLATAPd1bz6PRt59HmM7l78bX1nsAiLUt9T4igYPG2piL6mWf5mkskoAHVUThZ9wM0R0oLngfP0PGAiji-7nYTXO5A/s320/robin%20williams%20and%20valli%2025%20years.1.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Carlo Valli, right, who was the voice of<br />Robin Williams.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span><p style="text-align: left;"></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">Dubbing, as
well as subtitling, raises fascinating issues of cultural exchange and
transmission, as does any translation. Decisions have to be made about
everything from titles of films (“<i>Scandalo a Filadelfia”</i> [“Scandal in
Philadelphia”] instead of “Philadelphia Story” [1940]) to names of characters (<i>Rossella
O’Hara</i> instead of Scarlett O’Hara in “Gone with the Wind” [1939]), from
regional accents to puns. Example of the last is how does one differentiate in Italian “where
wolf”/“werewolf” to make a joke make sense in 1974’s “Young Frankenstein”? Apparently that was one of the more successful translations; we've quoted the English and Italian versions at the end of this post.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">“Translating”
regional accents into dubbed foreign language versions can be a challenge as
well. According to Vizzaccaro, it's generally not feasible in Italian; the equivalent would be more cultural than regional and might be offensive or perceived as silly. There are attempts to make the transition. In the TV show “The Simpsons,” the Protestant Reverend Lovejoy has a
Southern accent. In Italian, points out <a href="https://www.easyitalianonline.com/">Italian language and cultural educator
Valeria Mancuso</a>, his dubber speaks with a Sicilian or Calabrian accent.
Apu, the Indian proprietor of the Kwik-E-Mart in that series, in Italian speaks
with a sing-song cadence and grammatical errors, both indicating he’s an
immigrant.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">The dubber
also has to provide content that at least minimally resembles the words coming
out of the actor’s mouth, basically lip-synching. Except in one anomalous case.
Vizzaccaro pointed out Scarlett Johansson was an awards nominee for Best
Actress for 2013’s “Her,” in which only her voice is present. In Italy, the
dubbed version obviously featured someone else. As a result, Italian audiences had no
chance to witness the award-winning performance. We might think it strange to
have the same voice coming out of the mouths of Dustin Hoffman and Marlon
Brando, but the Italians don’t. The “famous” quality of voice actors may have
its counterpart in American animated features that often employ Hollywood
stars, like Tom Hanks playing Woody in the “Toy Story” series.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">Lynch also
points out that some Italian films in the past were dubbed—Italian into
Italian—because the dubbers have better voices. Elsa Martinelli won best
actress at the 1956 Berlin film festival for her role in Mario Monicelli’s
“Donatella,” even though her voice in the film is that of another actress. The
Italian Wikipedia lists the <i>doppiatori</i>—there were at least 9—for the
film (</span><a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donatella_(film))."><span style="line-height: 107%;">https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donatella_(film)</span></a><span style="line-height: 107%;">). This point evokes the transition
in American films from silents to talkies, which, </span><a href="https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/the-birth-of-the-talkies-sounded-the-death-knell-for-so-many-silent-stars/news-story/672605add2b50e6c09e6c46b771c0f44"><span style="line-height: 107%;">it’s generally agreed</span></a><span style="line-height: 107%;">, ended the career of some of those
whose voices didn’t match their screen personas.</span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 107%;">The prestige
of dubbing over subtitling is reflected not only in the economic and artistic
commitment Italians have to the craft, but also in some cartoons. We end these
ruminations on dubbing with this reminder of that prestige:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zVgt6o9YrPC3NSjg7hZ4Ty3NN3cs1bdIlsyy2GMYu3ivGBe_AOM8Cx3z9PBeLEQVK94Mk2obIwZfZrWaGlKhgyFJkvz8Phmr70dWW3kICjUubeRwv9qubX_kM5uVWBE21HkPXpmEjIZbTuz0a5x6awBsDkbQbpAHMFiahdJkJN1nRU5TymSqSD0FBw/s1200/cartoon.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="850" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zVgt6o9YrPC3NSjg7hZ4Ty3NN3cs1bdIlsyy2GMYu3ivGBe_AOM8Cx3z9PBeLEQVK94Mk2obIwZfZrWaGlKhgyFJkvz8Phmr70dWW3kICjUubeRwv9qubX_kM5uVWBE21HkPXpmEjIZbTuz0a5x6awBsDkbQbpAHMFiahdJkJN1nRU5TymSqSD0FBw/s320/cartoon.jpg" width="227" /></span></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">The top figure is labeled "Italian Dubbing"<br />and the bottom, "Subtitled Original"</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;">Dianne</span><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From "Young Frankenstein":</span></div><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Inga: Werewolf!<br />Frankenstein: Werewolf?<br />Igor: There<br />Frankenstein: What?<br />Igor: There wolf, there castle!</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Inga: Lupo ulul<span style="background-color: white; color: #404040;">à<br /></span>Frankenstein: Lupo ulul<span style="background-color: white; color: #404040;">à</span>?<br />Igor: L<span style="background-color: white; color: #404040;">à</span>!<br />Frankenstein: Cosa?<br />Igor: Lupu ulul<span style="background-color: white; color: #404040;">à</span>, castello ulul<span style="background-color: white; color: #404040;">ì!</span></span></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-20626919565010875632023-03-06T15:20:00.000-08:002023-03-06T15:20:24.058-08:00Exploring Romanina<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWYY8SlaxNo2ShFW8d63mo-EVHL6WtdSe764jf_wlxb4W79IomV4Y9x1yGe_6G4KBRy0TLMgqSiwqQ_gAUQ1I4p4DnqUqDG5vR1HTFfcPHmUy4JO77D2KsZM5WHKNyZIK_kkvns_4zamALljAKcwWE1siqGcOiq6vXylR6zAJw4Wwh2ps2tOOzGPXQCw/s5472/DSC00228.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWYY8SlaxNo2ShFW8d63mo-EVHL6WtdSe764jf_wlxb4W79IomV4Y9x1yGe_6G4KBRy0TLMgqSiwqQ_gAUQ1I4p4DnqUqDG5vR1HTFfcPHmUy4JO77D2KsZM5WHKNyZIK_kkvns_4zamALljAKcwWE1siqGcOiq6vXylR6zAJw4Wwh2ps2tOOzGPXQCw/w640-h426/DSC00228.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>When we told our Roman friends that we had spent the afternoon in Romanina, one said "that's not even a place." That's a harsh judgment, but not entirely inaccurate. Romanina is a third-or-fourth-ring suburb of Rome, southwest of the Center and flanked on one side by via Tuscolana. It has the feel of an area, rather than a town or village. There's some commerce on the streets that course around it, but there's little to be found on the residential streets. The furniture store in the photo above is "the exception that proves the rule" (one of our favorite phrases, guaranteed to win most arguments). Despite our friends' cool response to our venture into Romanina, we came away once again appreciating what we found--the "Roman" experience. </p><p>We parked our scooter at a McDonald's--here seen from in back--on one of the area's major thoroughfares. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Ey2K-_tOqvAKcsYL88584SQmupK7HHQdzcrj_lsC20mGUjFrND3JwTOpyyqbGCx5vW11sL1_Cn9l-bbEygz2YLNF_kjxLIWqR5poqotmtWj49H-AZ4QEV86gUc8uSOMj-o4CX-6vYYuUoltBonWqjOsqKmiubBxFuBJM0MjTokj-MiFD4r8kxfDgng/s5472/DSC00223.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Ey2K-_tOqvAKcsYL88584SQmupK7HHQdzcrj_lsC20mGUjFrND3JwTOpyyqbGCx5vW11sL1_Cn9l-bbEygz2YLNF_kjxLIWqR5poqotmtWj49H-AZ4QEV86gUc8uSOMj-o4CX-6vYYuUoltBonWqjOsqKmiubBxFuBJM0MjTokj-MiFD4r8kxfDgng/w400-h266/DSC00223.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Down the street was an establishment that could have been in "beautiful downtown Burbank" (as Johnny Carson put it) or in Waco, Texas--or anywhere. The signage on the long building with a classic suburban parking lot reads "Old Wild West," and inside the structure, part of it was (in English) a "Steak House."</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj577E2Id9N3iuIruMqw4WFcL-Fc4KuHQl0FBuC57iopU4sRr1qUXuE9K7PdNE6A4IFBiiM6rY8xDt8E0oxwL-St2RqSzhBHfvX0w52g5FjRNTXUS_ElJb8B5x-78N_ZQ5e189iK8QqeHT-jqW6_tTEVn_E11qYM0ttfIpgSqDVCZ8WCkOrcOU85GzK4w/s5472/DSC00220.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj577E2Id9N3iuIruMqw4WFcL-Fc4KuHQl0FBuC57iopU4sRr1qUXuE9K7PdNE6A4IFBiiM6rY8xDt8E0oxwL-St2RqSzhBHfvX0w52g5FjRNTXUS_ElJb8B5x-78N_ZQ5e189iK8QqeHT-jqW6_tTEVn_E11qYM0ttfIpgSqDVCZ8WCkOrcOU85GzK4w/w640-h426/DSC00220.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Across the busy street was a very Italian-looking building, whose function was impossible to determine.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRQO_0JoYAZsO51pdz2qZ_tZfzmA9jOfWk7j7yMLaD-CBjWVYbZ56E7uiYPnSl1jddboV1dFmUPlY6UITV_4L8SYo5-fp891OpMn-9JzBdDJTF-9NIwiwvKHp_nOwjTFyZAzFiIegEFMq1ZEn4Z-Fyq2gd0c1Tj-FOCbAp5kgPgN4u2huoInSCMzmzFA/s5472/DSC00221.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRQO_0JoYAZsO51pdz2qZ_tZfzmA9jOfWk7j7yMLaD-CBjWVYbZ56E7uiYPnSl1jddboV1dFmUPlY6UITV_4L8SYo5-fp891OpMn-9JzBdDJTF-9NIwiwvKHp_nOwjTFyZAzFiIegEFMq1ZEn4Z-Fyq2gd0c1Tj-FOCbAp5kgPgN4u2huoInSCMzmzFA/w640-h426/DSC00221.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Within 5 minutes we'd located the area's treasure--a long, thin, slightly curving park: Parco della Romanina. At each end, a painted arch welcomed patrons to (at that time) its parched grounds. Pine trees bent from prevailing winds.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFp6HpMiHVCCCaIf75XiOBEayhphSGSwYeZX-Kp__tYe1rNXSISkFuqYl9qD2toKI2V3buzP2C3ZgrJq6f9POY397BoVDbOpadkycuVEP6cuUGiItZJ6NQV8YLvgQSl2S-cpV3FozlcBk5y-9KDsEVBRvRi9EuasbbZXTjGnaUDAcsj0v6VuFqIDBLNQ/s5472/DSC00252.2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFp6HpMiHVCCCaIf75XiOBEayhphSGSwYeZX-Kp__tYe1rNXSISkFuqYl9qD2toKI2V3buzP2C3ZgrJq6f9POY397BoVDbOpadkycuVEP6cuUGiItZJ6NQV8YLvgQSl2S-cpV3FozlcBk5y-9KDsEVBRvRi9EuasbbZXTjGnaUDAcsj0v6VuFqIDBLNQ/w640-h426/DSC00252.2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>It was mid-day and hot, and not much was happening in the park.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgsox1Ivw8FWM2iDZ62l3D3a_Dv10K2Hnwyir-SNXB3uFAupn1cdLFEZy0hRApZqeWIiAaWuV0PrZ8U6rlBm8yQdjxGYukpYdNIiJ8sJicsgUKWEK1dpoq9QYjQ5U_GfUWl5DQ2v06saDlfKhdKBP0lDwO-uOcVfbF070or_eWzn8rT6QOcZa3WNRf6Q/s5472/DSC00226.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgsox1Ivw8FWM2iDZ62l3D3a_Dv10K2Hnwyir-SNXB3uFAupn1cdLFEZy0hRApZqeWIiAaWuV0PrZ8U6rlBm8yQdjxGYukpYdNIiJ8sJicsgUKWEK1dpoq9QYjQ5U_GfUWl5DQ2v06saDlfKhdKBP0lDwO-uOcVfbF070or_eWzn8rT6QOcZa3WNRf6Q/w400-h266/DSC00226.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>On one wall, a painted sign featured drawings (and names) of two women, presumably from Romanina, and the words "For all the women who struggle against the mafia(s)."</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7uTacXZh0kMsPN2fiIx0DHUK0y2RSzIxjhmd2uLUBGPr0uPY2oz8cpdN177SmcIOA-3E948TbNIJn3noAabaOc1J9t1SQVWEgqvct3JctbJg8h38bvXxOfO_Y3gcYW6-lTynOgb7ZCX-4G1GRyjTjN1MvgeUPyOW99jaAxBvfEmpfyB8NQTDOn0PeQ/s5472/DSC00224.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7uTacXZh0kMsPN2fiIx0DHUK0y2RSzIxjhmd2uLUBGPr0uPY2oz8cpdN177SmcIOA-3E948TbNIJn3noAabaOc1J9t1SQVWEgqvct3JctbJg8h38bvXxOfO_Y3gcYW6-lTynOgb7ZCX-4G1GRyjTjN1MvgeUPyOW99jaAxBvfEmpfyB8NQTDOn0PeQ/w640-h426/DSC00224.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>In contrast to the somewhat inviting Parco della Romanina, a small neighborhood park was overgrown to the point of being unusable--not uncommon in Rome and environs. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonCYKxbpek6F2_9WIReSyyJM8MvAu6kU8cpM4sRO3MUxkYUBJdGBXJ9E7NYiC-iYoZkF8G02XbbJQNwRXjOkXx-nODBigfzpuS9AtvXnl2KybzYlnJj3ERV6hG9VsX6_q9yJawraB4cyjuE9WifUxEWnUZ6_1xu8ftvXfw6IWvWil5-gTrLy75992XQ/s5472/DSC00234.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonCYKxbpek6F2_9WIReSyyJM8MvAu6kU8cpM4sRO3MUxkYUBJdGBXJ9E7NYiC-iYoZkF8G02XbbJQNwRXjOkXx-nODBigfzpuS9AtvXnl2KybzYlnJj3ERV6hG9VsX6_q9yJawraB4cyjuE9WifUxEWnUZ6_1xu8ftvXfw6IWvWil5-gTrLy75992XQ/s320/DSC00234.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>We always enjoy looking at housing, including apartment buildings.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDeeYnymn6wjMjTk9T74qw3EOFCggZCYbxrGNS-_4-gq2E00-GySwsFm9yhfRh53ay1_R6sBKjDJ9Fval2UGwAo2bN5wVnRBXp5Cfa7zqTKbFXo05TgEGUNe_w_KXckKz6NkLH4QgUMTjVtVLvUB4FG6Sz-71DnMIXV9wULPrw9hGK_HH7twH3lt1Kqg/s5472/DSC00233.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDeeYnymn6wjMjTk9T74qw3EOFCggZCYbxrGNS-_4-gq2E00-GySwsFm9yhfRh53ay1_R6sBKjDJ9Fval2UGwAo2bN5wVnRBXp5Cfa7zqTKbFXo05TgEGUNe_w_KXckKz6NkLH4QgUMTjVtVLvUB4FG6Sz-71DnMIXV9wULPrw9hGK_HH7twH3lt1Kqg/s320/DSC00233.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGy4qvqSMUBrH-GOXUknRAKfP2FIAVJcKg5235ULSszgxDTZ9ACuDFN2CwUClHrfjYLeguQ5AjCJCkcV7z4V45ZN5usXu1XlQR8JgrZy4xolqhX7K9lCysQglGIQ7sGUIKb-fJhwuG_oN-KBV67vzZzqbBZEuuH9EEKAFAF49egG60OUlTTS0h64B3g/s5472/DSC00231.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGy4qvqSMUBrH-GOXUknRAKfP2FIAVJcKg5235ULSszgxDTZ9ACuDFN2CwUClHrfjYLeguQ5AjCJCkcV7z4V45ZN5usXu1XlQR8JgrZy4xolqhX7K9lCysQglGIQ7sGUIKb-fJhwuG_oN-KBV67vzZzqbBZEuuH9EEKAFAF49egG60OUlTTS0h64B3g/s320/DSC00231.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>And we found an unusual single-family residence with a castle-like turret. Perhaps abandoned. Or they're just not picking up their mail.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtW2gnVhGhWtHDqyVGAyqXOP9zFrQW0F3ZX9lvrWt_kALLud7wUhV3gozgwCbXOlHXRo9LnMW3phSgcq7jptR56VkPlJN0egDzVygLO5DLbUzIjJ7xV1x1hNHuL9zFxsqTJsuDTWRpG4lXvL3WLRdsTcYaD3YmaQjPxUDtteTRkuAQ1DMy6E6cWAAIA/s5472/DSC00238.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtW2gnVhGhWtHDqyVGAyqXOP9zFrQW0F3ZX9lvrWt_kALLud7wUhV3gozgwCbXOlHXRo9LnMW3phSgcq7jptR56VkPlJN0egDzVygLO5DLbUzIjJ7xV1x1hNHuL9zFxsqTJsuDTWRpG4lXvL3WLRdsTcYaD3YmaQjPxUDtteTRkuAQ1DMy6E6cWAAIA/w640-h426/DSC00238.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The La Mela Hotel, not far from the western entrance to the park, had some interesting high balconies. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOV7Di70u9s40k8lLLVA36qFFgb7tVUNcDARoKsdPz7gn5eVKLJRW1onQeKoM8sqwovFMUSTPZkM151-M6RMg6T1-69pQEtG4jm2SY15hgWcTBQ4jXuVWEmlLc4TGCcX1QChrm9DhQ6FXbi8P1z4vocXy1WMIj4F_AdozpfCEXHZNH5WWTnhgTRiXOKw/s5472/DSC00230.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOV7Di70u9s40k8lLLVA36qFFgb7tVUNcDARoKsdPz7gn5eVKLJRW1onQeKoM8sqwovFMUSTPZkM151-M6RMg6T1-69pQEtG4jm2SY15hgWcTBQ4jXuVWEmlLc4TGCcX1QChrm9DhQ6FXbi8P1z4vocXy1WMIj4F_AdozpfCEXHZNH5WWTnhgTRiXOKw/w426-h640/DSC00230.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p>We found an open (and worthy) church to explore and admire.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyIP-YvaEHjvbLPsLHtt9_JPMZLVp3JLCRQXUwJP0Bf_IldeOXkL_zO2slitM2FcdssrCfjAyLVYHIq9JnFD4ifBM3kjnnSvMAZ08UYf5AZUMM4VnsDoyhKTnO_keFPIcRlPHNF4GhPyno2pAYCwF9DBe9WgXgKru73BsG90f0YGdb7xltDaUSODTAZQ/s5472/DSC00248.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyIP-YvaEHjvbLPsLHtt9_JPMZLVp3JLCRQXUwJP0Bf_IldeOXkL_zO2slitM2FcdssrCfjAyLVYHIq9JnFD4ifBM3kjnnSvMAZ08UYf5AZUMM4VnsDoyhKTnO_keFPIcRlPHNF4GhPyno2pAYCwF9DBe9WgXgKru73BsG90f0YGdb7xltDaUSODTAZQ/w640-h426/DSC00248.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>After combing the neighborhood for some time, we finally came across a compact shopping area. It's a relief to know you can buy stuff in Romanina. Dianne appears uninterested.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMuURK-AhHJWSn1IFRVZObj5hklekwTl1327uxarPePYDzPhe4qSvYGIO8ZOAW5bALp6vK6DhXkYTQ5lrAWYN-P4PZ6gq7ieCYW7YcVIvD4KbwGBzVit2Ut9rXWW4x-PZtFLwlSm1jxsforjub-yWjpH7f4BHAN9VKTQ7gJZAOVWwogCCd0dd7kEtAQ/s5472/DSC00243.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMuURK-AhHJWSn1IFRVZObj5hklekwTl1327uxarPePYDzPhe4qSvYGIO8ZOAW5bALp6vK6DhXkYTQ5lrAWYN-P4PZ6gq7ieCYW7YcVIvD4KbwGBzVit2Ut9rXWW4x-PZtFLwlSm1jxsforjub-yWjpH7f4BHAN9VKTQ7gJZAOVWwogCCd0dd7kEtAQ/w640-h426/DSC00243.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Exhausted by the richness and splendors of Romanina, we returned to McDonald's--and our scooter. </p><p>Bill</p><p><br /></p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-1880245290908700302023-02-13T08:09:00.001-08:002023-02-13T12:49:32.810-08:00Following Fermi: The Great Physicist in Rome<p>Traces of Enrico Fermi, one of the world's greatest theoretical physicists, are visible in Rome, the city of his birth and where he was driven out by Fascism.</p><p>Fermi, an acknowledged prodigy in math and science, started his work on a street now more known for its night-life, via Panisperna in the Monti quarter. He and his associates were dubbed <i>"I ragazzi di via Panisperna,"</i> - "the boys of via Panisperna," and are captured in the photo below:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsD8TaR69Dyv81ndm8pKID1pV7iv1IBKjQTpuFgT05dXcxpn-U3i00bt2qvCNrM8hfZnD782yWSuGwniNv1-thYHr3KMR_BwQc-CO2GsBBcmPLI0Okpcuyo4Q_H8HIkQ4LjACil40hDvzAUC0fGQdKumGgSGOkAaR7GiD2ydakQdJahNWorUKSOaYnyw/s5472/Fermi%20boys.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsD8TaR69Dyv81ndm8pKID1pV7iv1IBKjQTpuFgT05dXcxpn-U3i00bt2qvCNrM8hfZnD782yWSuGwniNv1-thYHr3KMR_BwQc-CO2GsBBcmPLI0Okpcuyo4Q_H8HIkQ4LjACil40hDvzAUC0fGQdKumGgSGOkAaR7GiD2ydakQdJahNWorUKSOaYnyw/w266-h400/Fermi%20boys.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="background-color: #f8f9fa; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Enrico Fermi at far right. The</span></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><span><span style="background-color: #f8f9fa; font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><i>other "</i>ragazzi<i>" </i></span></span></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: #f8f9fa;">from left to right, </span>Oscar D'Agostino<span style="background-color: #f8f9fa;">,</span></span></i></div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: black;"><div style="text-align: right;"><i>Emilio Segrè<span style="background-color: #f8f9fa;">, </span>Edoardo Amaldi<span style="background-color: #f8f9fa;">,</span></i></div></span><span style="color: black;"><div style="text-align: right;"><i>and Franco Rasetti<span style="background-color: #f8f9fa;">. The photo</span></i></div></span><span style="background-color: #f8f9fa;"><div style="text-align: right;"><i> was taken by a sixth, </i><i style="background-color: transparent;">Bruno Pontecorvo.</i></div></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">The background looks very much</span></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">like the buildings on via Panisperna</span></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">today, though #90, where the institute</span></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">supposedly was, is an older church.</span></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">As a result, we are not sure exactly where on </span></i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">via Panisperna the institute was located.</span></i></div><div style="font-size: small; text-align: right;"><i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i></div><div style="font-size: small; text-align: right;"><i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i></div><div style="font-size: small; text-align: right;"><i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">Fermi's location beginning in 1935 <u>is</u> well-known, and now bears his name, as well as sporting a plaque commemorating his extraordinary research there. And that's in the main campus of Rome's storied university, <i>La Sapienza</i>, or <i>La Citt<span style="background-color: white; color: #202124; white-space: nowrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">à</span></span></i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i> Universitaria</i>, designed by Mario Piacentini and opened in 1935 (the subject of prior posts, including one on </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/11/gio-pontis-rome-building-scuola-di.html" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Gio Ponti's math building</a><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and another on </span><a href="https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2016/02/a-night-at-university-mario-sironis.html" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Mario Sironi's "Aula Magna" mural</a><span style="font-family: inherit;"> - Great Hall - painted in 1935).</span></div></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In May 2018 we joined a guided tour of the University's physics department, located in one of Piacentini's original set of buildings. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOi90mu1VX4gnd-EHjDn6DR0KfiaiB0s3LKvtTRPyjFKrrBV_g8bdUm3y7eRrE47Dg8ljJiLOxvhy-eUwYxwqZaAZpyue10T23DsPZWFonPswHFCAqAOHEAHGqoWXMfqPSPRNrNzKDDUOjOgaPz8AtOqulaE6RnPO-83QDulmDgWAcKpQYxmWla7akw/s3592/Fermi%20naming.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1634" data-original-width="3592" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOi90mu1VX4gnd-EHjDn6DR0KfiaiB0s3LKvtTRPyjFKrrBV_g8bdUm3y7eRrE47Dg8ljJiLOxvhy-eUwYxwqZaAZpyue10T23DsPZWFonPswHFCAqAOHEAHGqoWXMfqPSPRNrNzKDDUOjOgaPz8AtOqulaE6RnPO-83QDulmDgWAcKpQYxmWla7akw/s320/Fermi%20naming.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><i>Left, the Department of Physics is named for Fermi.</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">The Physics Institute itself is named for another Nobel-winning Italian physicist (and member of the Fascist Party, as was Fermi at one point), Guglielmo Marconi, as seen here:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkGxzz4OtUfVDRCPsfAR3rvBMHWyS1CAOH-LaYoGIAfF-7NkeVHBZ5x8yGC-eUoPAlFzRV4GzhqXaubm40bqNvF0SuUARXXfwoolCF52uWQxnzTa6HYm0lJ3B-NWgKAzPXorqX4wsHb8r46tblnSFO30VGcnVpu3pCdf20TLRJUoMqHNZz6opGLJ6l4w/s5472/DSC05975.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkGxzz4OtUfVDRCPsfAR3rvBMHWyS1CAOH-LaYoGIAfF-7NkeVHBZ5x8yGC-eUoPAlFzRV4GzhqXaubm40bqNvF0SuUARXXfwoolCF52uWQxnzTa6HYm0lJ3B-NWgKAzPXorqX4wsHb8r46tblnSFO30VGcnVpu3pCdf20TLRJUoMqHNZz6opGLJ6l4w/w640-h426/DSC05975.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The plaque below - inside the building - reads:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;">"In this institute <span style="font-family: inherit;">from 1927 to 1938 Enri</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">co Fermi taught and studied. Here he investigated the structure of materials and discovered the radioactivity caused by neutrons [actually neutrinos], opening new avenues in the world. To the knowledge and power of man." [As noted, the institute was located on via Panisperna until about 1935.]</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF95AzC9gLhPMEDFtFw_lqeKBqhiqmlsqwoEpfQfADjPd4b92fx4MJbZu4kSDzDKT1rOa4oTiSTuBRCJvnElwYrzEehA_bV4Ey2DTNLBxVwGHZDc9-g1u46_K9imYzM_4TH85BLpI_SrFux18zcEABpHcrV-XUA1VdY3nN4OJ6rgGMliuRx9nQXFbEQw/s3366/Fermi%20plaque.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2442" data-original-width="3366" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF95AzC9gLhPMEDFtFw_lqeKBqhiqmlsqwoEpfQfADjPd4b92fx4MJbZu4kSDzDKT1rOa4oTiSTuBRCJvnElwYrzEehA_bV4Ey2DTNLBxVwGHZDc9-g1u46_K9imYzM_4TH85BLpI_SrFux18zcEABpHcrV-XUA1VdY3nN4OJ6rgGMliuRx9nQXFbEQw/w400-h290/Fermi%20plaque.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">What the plaque does not say is that in 1938, when Fermi, age 37, went to Stockholm to accept his Nobel prize in physics, he kept going - to the United States, fleeing with his family from the racial laws of Italy that had already affected the lives of many of his colleagues and potentially would affect his wife, who was of Jewish heritage.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKceQSOktQTRuLjmuGl9l-SClTt6zQWt2BmLVvjLmGMZri6oND24Y7iWz2uTGpgL-b8JuOQJSHctGOXQNIsAW9E29I0rX9jHnXfgdOXkAzHfZuVdqBDxwHMkgqp4fRAHdGsi84o-dat6wsAu0GeVUv0Si91GHrFLEOtGwYT2nYaqbh0nJ3Pn94ZN4wCQ/s5472/Fermi%20lab%201.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKceQSOktQTRuLjmuGl9l-SClTt6zQWt2BmLVvjLmGMZri6oND24Y7iWz2uTGpgL-b8JuOQJSHctGOXQNIsAW9E29I0rX9jHnXfgdOXkAzHfZuVdqBDxwHMkgqp4fRAHdGsi84o-dat6wsAu0GeVUv0Si91GHrFLEOtGwYT2nYaqbh0nJ3Pn94ZN4wCQ/s320/Fermi%20lab%201.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>The tour included parts of Fermi's lab (left), and a cabinet of Fermi tools and books (below, right).<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7t_e709Xhcs2XtYZd3RIQbwGNZRhdKkCimt9dznCk6UMQGB1gDWLHoiLrhtOEFiCNhZJAetWh0JpP-mcCITUKyAL8NGC468UgM4vmCICw0K3NFmP6aVHxpTS4bwm91X3CCPFoCJEoUbmn442Wflg2z8F6E6PQ9AHLJQc16SF8wPBu3Rc9OTT_l8qxxg/s4472/Fermi%20cabinet.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4472" data-original-width="3500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7t_e709Xhcs2XtYZd3RIQbwGNZRhdKkCimt9dznCk6UMQGB1gDWLHoiLrhtOEFiCNhZJAetWh0JpP-mcCITUKyAL8NGC468UgM4vmCICw0K3NFmP6aVHxpTS4bwm91X3CCPFoCJEoUbmn442Wflg2z8F6E6PQ9AHLJQc16SF8wPBu3Rc9OTT_l8qxxg/s320/Fermi%20cabinet.JPG" width="250" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Besides the photo of <i>i ragazzi di via Panisperna</i>, other photos on display on the tour included the one below of Fermi with two other giants of theoretical physics, Werner Heisenberg and another Italian, Wolfgang Pauli (below, the German Heisenberg in the center, Pauli on the right), at Lake Como (date unclear).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6hZ6a4SDJQ_Wgvhv8pg7RXqpDXeXc37dRoMwDrJ9KpqLit0fBExFm8UoWez1P2gjBxVSXq7FcvtvQwVvz2hXT_6-iNmPIKhfIzSPsV-AubCx0BwQ1eOqQC3vLb-PjhhmIHnivVu72OIB1bGmGRbQWhHMTXVjCUPfnhIw6hlqIw2Al1pkloheYx3kIw/s4764/Fermi%20and%20Heisenberg%20and%20Pauli.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3482" data-original-width="4764" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6hZ6a4SDJQ_Wgvhv8pg7RXqpDXeXc37dRoMwDrJ9KpqLit0fBExFm8UoWez1P2gjBxVSXq7FcvtvQwVvz2hXT_6-iNmPIKhfIzSPsV-AubCx0BwQ1eOqQC3vLb-PjhhmIHnivVu72OIB1bGmGRbQWhHMTXVjCUPfnhIw6hlqIw2Al1pkloheYx3kIw/w400-h293/Fermi%20and%20Heisenberg%20and%20Pauli.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The Nobel Prize website has<a href="https://www.nobelprize.org/prizes/physics/1938/fermi/biographical/" target="_blank"> a good biography of Fermi</a> and lay-person descriptions of his scientific breakthroughs (at least one of which was developed based on Pauli's research).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dianne</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></span></div>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-47128815213837328392023-01-19T12:03:00.000-08:002023-01-19T12:03:34.144-08:00A New Stadium for A.S. Roma: a Walking Adventure in Rome's near-in Countryside<p>Rome's A.S. Roma football club has been looking to build a new stadium for years. One effort collapsed when it became clear that the location--Tor di Valle, to the southwest of the city--would produce traffic chaos whenever there was a game. The latest idea (and at this writing it seems more likely to come to fruition) is to place the new stadium in an area of (more or less) unused land, at the intersection of Tiburtino and Pietralata--and across some railroad tracks and a highway from Piazza Bologna. Here's a map, with the location of the proposed stadium at center left (inserted as if it's there, below the road, just above the red Metro sign and to the right of the large P).</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHRu2zYSNVG-1oVq_cSeHPW45Gs4p87LVHszjwD6C8yHOgk0jGAW5UQ253RJKhGHB8QGhUGKV8KhKt6aoeJtZxnp3SJ5Xxh0_DMFlOQzNVWK15HwUihSdjtElpsycBPiw2lrBkU-HdwDXt9-VqyoKaKYDN9mJ_vZq8hLxTNRWjyiGD3zdB3i8ruz4rg/s639/new%20stadium.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="639" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHRu2zYSNVG-1oVq_cSeHPW45Gs4p87LVHszjwD6C8yHOgk0jGAW5UQ253RJKhGHB8QGhUGKV8KhKt6aoeJtZxnp3SJ5Xxh0_DMFlOQzNVWK15HwUihSdjtElpsycBPiw2lrBkU-HdwDXt9-VqyoKaKYDN9mJ_vZq8hLxTNRWjyiGD3zdB3i8ruz4rg/w640-h426/new%20stadium.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p>In early May, we set out to have a look at the area--not a place we had ever been. We parked our scooter on via dei Durantini (to the best of my recollection) and it didn't take long to come across a "Centro Revisioni" (for getting your vehicle its yearly test), located in a shack-like building at via del Casale Quintiliani, 115.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTys29W-uwPgIBMK8FeFchZN9QfAsU9rvL_sOtnUNZQDdeH3ij7E05YyaEi2L9AgM8ohmMSw3OtZB9Vkt4DBKPjnon9CKeI2DeYKQt817yMT1lXVvFU-6L6IqkoIHKNugy15vULst9rMe5ztCiwXuuHOqywSX6m2MJwACT4yMuVDltTIOIYaU1x0cR5Q/s5472/DSC09618.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTys29W-uwPgIBMK8FeFchZN9QfAsU9rvL_sOtnUNZQDdeH3ij7E05YyaEi2L9AgM8ohmMSw3OtZB9Vkt4DBKPjnon9CKeI2DeYKQt817yMT1lXVvFU-6L6IqkoIHKNugy15vULst9rMe5ztCiwXuuHOqywSX6m2MJwACT4yMuVDltTIOIYaU1x0cR5Q/w640-h426/DSC09618.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Not far beyond, we discovered the isolated Quintiliani Metro station (and bus turnaround). Heading down into the station, we didn't see a single person. Nor did the bus, which turned around while we were there, drop anyone off or pick anyone up. If and when the stadium arrives, the station will be busier--at least during soccer season. See the map above for the location of the Metro station. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKTT8yloZkEvEEqW52CMIDfgUDJdnZ8gZfvvwED2CR5mlow0Z5f2-PnfXoEnadK-m457Ouh3VekDVXTPYQBF4455Q79vXniiX9-IA23SRjN4wloKo6apK83oE1VzyvxZiqh87CQD2cM5sJ3mKPt-jbqNOxQiKe832uZXsLfa6m7JlkFzi0oaoPqvImsQ/s5472/DSC09619.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKTT8yloZkEvEEqW52CMIDfgUDJdnZ8gZfvvwED2CR5mlow0Z5f2-PnfXoEnadK-m457Ouh3VekDVXTPYQBF4455Q79vXniiX9-IA23SRjN4wloKo6apK83oE1VzyvxZiqh87CQD2cM5sJ3mKPt-jbqNOxQiKe832uZXsLfa6m7JlkFzi0oaoPqvImsQ/s320/DSC09619.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWQO85Cnix8fyMj7mNUKfKAUwLEUDXR2EQmkV2B3qBdfbBH52_jWJ6RIOLlWLIKAMbtN-5xiMkndIfwi4ZjVDoN693bFL_Fm-8aBwDNsq9vE_yCzpJvW926hI97s8wsLGg5BJ-ESAv4NnExg59MXAe9R0vXRR1cFMvdm5CCcFYfiQKk0BWIr2Ly2vdQ/s5472/DSC09620.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWQO85Cnix8fyMj7mNUKfKAUwLEUDXR2EQmkV2B3qBdfbBH52_jWJ6RIOLlWLIKAMbtN-5xiMkndIfwi4ZjVDoN693bFL_Fm-8aBwDNsq9vE_yCzpJvW926hI97s8wsLGg5BJ-ESAv4NnExg59MXAe9R0vXRR1cFMvdm5CCcFYfiQKk0BWIr2Ly2vdQ/s320/DSC09620.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of graffiti, but no passengers</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Up a hill, there's a carrozzeria (a car repair place), in as remote a location as the Metro station. If you can get your car there, it doesn't need repair.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTLNTcNTbVVPGJJB0rPR1MDTF88U9Ee9wD61xfwKcU_L9nE3CLfvJA8ISHxQlc5FTPd6xLDG595YGncQaHtoZuF4lBzN7uowGWEx0Q8zONxTSfR5tk_8FBYuiOMLO31n9u-JEbAUWCQZRSE3kuZ8vU5ENWYVqJ_0ALDbB7mDiYf3_vx-4RykTMCN32FQ/s5472/DSC09623.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTLNTcNTbVVPGJJB0rPR1MDTF88U9Ee9wD61xfwKcU_L9nE3CLfvJA8ISHxQlc5FTPd6xLDG595YGncQaHtoZuF4lBzN7uowGWEx0Q8zONxTSfR5tk_8FBYuiOMLO31n9u-JEbAUWCQZRSE3kuZ8vU5ENWYVqJ_0ALDbB7mDiYf3_vx-4RykTMCN32FQ/s320/DSC09623.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Then, more run-down buildings.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8eIFqFQACLfAq8_sLjWMuz_JGhCChhAnrAX_k6wRaaZr2PLMEmUfInm1WP-yp7k5X4zJPZSPY6S3teFeNfmLu8HQnobCSSDAwngRJpucMitjo46-g7ZPNTP8vTa0VuDVrKu5u1LT0NjsAjMXvqpPmWe_t6t_5AKpXhgJHDf1A2Uy96mL_is6VTNo-A/s5472/DSC09624.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8eIFqFQACLfAq8_sLjWMuz_JGhCChhAnrAX_k6wRaaZr2PLMEmUfInm1WP-yp7k5X4zJPZSPY6S3teFeNfmLu8HQnobCSSDAwngRJpucMitjo46-g7ZPNTP8vTa0VuDVrKu5u1LT0NjsAjMXvqpPmWe_t6t_5AKpXhgJHDf1A2Uy96mL_is6VTNo-A/w640-h426/DSC09624.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><br /><p>We found lots of open land, sprinkled with roads (some of them of fairly recent origin) that are no longer in use--a project or projects that never panned out.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeaybgngC27IShTAy78T1QdjadoinMgpiiTxcv8z9HUgcF5Kxsfl0034ay6NAMhLLhPZW1uUKxnlhkx_CHEbdTXvJ9VzQQ8kfM2ti_YjbtX752lad0YBwTWeA1YFC7zaqyYfNG9xQkgVhCwlEM7nzWEp49WUYIS3172bacPnGEPEglQU71kJ53yIgRg/s5472/DSC09637.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeaybgngC27IShTAy78T1QdjadoinMgpiiTxcv8z9HUgcF5Kxsfl0034ay6NAMhLLhPZW1uUKxnlhkx_CHEbdTXvJ9VzQQ8kfM2ti_YjbtX752lad0YBwTWeA1YFC7zaqyYfNG9xQkgVhCwlEM7nzWEp49WUYIS3172bacPnGEPEglQU71kJ53yIgRg/s320/DSC09637.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZM75_pzcmp7hZPH9KsQiLBpgrh4Z1iIrBJL0iRHuoTqtrRwT59Gtj6d-nQaHyegHr6eesPhuYFVy4b0HLNtAn6V0DNIq86poYQyBAU3WCG5B2Cqedwl2L8r1W-ozq-dvo9KMU8hXRAtGlha4gypwfmTk-c4_ILtKtX3qvsPHgcAtlyZigovqR055iQ/s5472/DSC09628.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZM75_pzcmp7hZPH9KsQiLBpgrh4Z1iIrBJL0iRHuoTqtrRwT59Gtj6d-nQaHyegHr6eesPhuYFVy4b0HLNtAn6V0DNIq86poYQyBAU3WCG5B2Cqedwl2L8r1W-ozq-dvo9KMU8hXRAtGlha4gypwfmTk-c4_ILtKtX3qvsPHgcAtlyZigovqR055iQ/w640-h426/DSC09628.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Some nice views of the nearby "city" (Piazza Bologna in the distance)?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCehXwRnF4H-xvh4xcFQQo3rBg_P-bbXSpy-payxi_LOTQVERSh6jlcdmtEOPfuPQwCZahQvCnwwQLL2Ih8hIdcutP2LjMNDRBQ_TPuWL0YrMC1JJJkvRE1kiU09njHuBbNzBxCuUwGd_dfnP6S-4Zk5x07s87MN-uqqvibs1UQDlZlcc89QsDY6QCLg/s5472/DSC09631.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCehXwRnF4H-xvh4xcFQQo3rBg_P-bbXSpy-payxi_LOTQVERSh6jlcdmtEOPfuPQwCZahQvCnwwQLL2Ih8hIdcutP2LjMNDRBQ_TPuWL0YrMC1JJJkvRE1kiU09njHuBbNzBxCuUwGd_dfnP6S-4Zk5x07s87MN-uqqvibs1UQDlZlcc89QsDY6QCLg/w640-h426/DSC09631.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>And lots of poppies on the roadsides.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocNnDI4Ui8QGWrtG9oebWdJF0xSOjTqXAPrNn7SmuL5_minOVpdUfUHw5jd4muKcrQqR3PHRhjvZXa3z5Qnxn7IRIN-Md8gL0LHOUwJOaYahreru39xp2dKSt33onhBQ0gJ9lgCdAlXWNSf1fff2upGCsanKRrHjckngifp8rBYVLivypZDkKKnYFkw/s5472/DSC09617.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocNnDI4Ui8QGWrtG9oebWdJF0xSOjTqXAPrNn7SmuL5_minOVpdUfUHw5jd4muKcrQqR3PHRhjvZXa3z5Qnxn7IRIN-Md8gL0LHOUwJOaYahreru39xp2dKSt33onhBQ0gJ9lgCdAlXWNSf1fff2upGCsanKRrHjckngifp8rBYVLivypZDkKKnYFkw/w266-h400/DSC09617.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>A rusted sign that I later converted into "accidental art." Ala Georges Braque (I know: "he's no Braque")</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSYZCp2JvhjdPV9vHTYWea53l61ZQcYKmqkq1tkchfs4Uwmf97tEpj-aCR_aLYLcHvPYnkA-HdKFZW9LhE86LNt50tzTsIoN2aMyS-ofgeVKwENo15cJM2dKagdbDJJsKnrAZCj1ksB-ByyGjO68jhmuhS6GCpSiV47lz2glMgG8zIT2xQqT7TdQgLA/s5472/DSC09641.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSYZCp2JvhjdPV9vHTYWea53l61ZQcYKmqkq1tkchfs4Uwmf97tEpj-aCR_aLYLcHvPYnkA-HdKFZW9LhE86LNt50tzTsIoN2aMyS-ofgeVKwENo15cJM2dKagdbDJJsKnrAZCj1ksB-ByyGjO68jhmuhS6GCpSiV47lz2glMgG8zIT2xQqT7TdQgLA/s320/DSC09641.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYK20xG0UtGKbMBEd1JuDAIZHBb1UuWUKVZKQkflxHLiRSznjYVjYRjRrcolO8js1neuCFJbUs35nylMxM4UYATDsZvkVDeZQy37rUfXq0tlvAAO2uEkfCu1UzZxM5qjX9WfZ6fpVF25kDagaH3qXAyIZshDuqFk-AaDV2bEO6JWw2EsZ9UibTpXd1Q/s1387/DSC09643.4.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1387" data-original-width="1387" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYK20xG0UtGKbMBEd1JuDAIZHBb1UuWUKVZKQkflxHLiRSznjYVjYRjRrcolO8js1neuCFJbUs35nylMxM4UYATDsZvkVDeZQy37rUfXq0tlvAAO2uEkfCu1UzZxM5qjX9WfZ6fpVF25kDagaH3qXAyIZshDuqFk-AaDV2bEO6JWw2EsZ9UibTpXd1Q/w640-h640/DSC09643.4.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>A few more businesses, including this small iron and aluminum foundry, not far from the Tiburtina Metro and train station:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHfdUuZuDiDQEhP9LiPlDYBRz9QVx7vu537y4b_XqUO1rrKzvMuBYa_59puPmC50A1Y-qWPrQAiH5DTt7GCo___P0F_gbLhwpJhk9goJPttwR0v0aQ5QgqkOfS0hw31c5VWglngEbDLCl5t8Y9L6RcxyThx2VnajWw6zMBivqFaF8jxNsDZ2mj1DXEQ/s5472/DSC09655.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHfdUuZuDiDQEhP9LiPlDYBRz9QVx7vu537y4b_XqUO1rrKzvMuBYa_59puPmC50A1Y-qWPrQAiH5DTt7GCo___P0F_gbLhwpJhk9goJPttwR0v0aQ5QgqkOfS0hw31c5VWglngEbDLCl5t8Y9L6RcxyThx2VnajWw6zMBivqFaF8jxNsDZ2mj1DXEQ/w640-h426/DSC09655.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>A tunnel in use, but to where?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRDGHvwc-go9Qhfj8ikqTNcDmG9vnweAOXbAPXhazwBu1DsFAOe4I8edZbW1GCAvhQ-o-WAaeXqCAfaDLnU2vpPmtmpgcLEjhcJZVpJ8p38HV4wIWDOSw2Cv7Kkda64I2ktgYQ_0b50GeSCOt9DX_3zZwZ1MRFHy2bV1Ag4SPwg1CbKyeJMJN0xehNlQ/s5472/DSC09660.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRDGHvwc-go9Qhfj8ikqTNcDmG9vnweAOXbAPXhazwBu1DsFAOe4I8edZbW1GCAvhQ-o-WAaeXqCAfaDLnU2vpPmtmpgcLEjhcJZVpJ8p38HV4wIWDOSw2Cv7Kkda64I2ktgYQ_0b50GeSCOt9DX_3zZwZ1MRFHy2bV1Ag4SPwg1CbKyeJMJN0xehNlQ/s320/DSC09660.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Off via dei Monti Tiburtini, a path into the future stadium site (we did not take it). This is a not a street for pedestrians--no sidewalks; we had to run now and then to avoid being on the street. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwKsM0IKyoYPdbXQ70YHkjRs0C886SaKAnz3HCQB4SBmDgT7o4b7TZSHOEEAO14Iq3JcT7xrNTrZxohMDCIXM4RHIW73WPcmZ_yS3vT6kxDcNPq0o_eL-e8eZeFxRm7oNILqXAVkFIhNVf2s-URoZWzWPCBWutp7YXgPj828NES9RVsXXiTu08JNDbg/s5472/DSC09663.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwKsM0IKyoYPdbXQ70YHkjRs0C886SaKAnz3HCQB4SBmDgT7o4b7TZSHOEEAO14Iq3JcT7xrNTrZxohMDCIXM4RHIW73WPcmZ_yS3vT6kxDcNPq0o_eL-e8eZeFxRm7oNILqXAVkFIhNVf2s-URoZWzWPCBWutp7YXgPj828NES9RVsXXiTu08JNDbg/w640-h426/DSC09663.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Turning off via dei Monti Tiburtini, we found a nice coffee shop, chatted with the owner about the prospect of a stadium nearby, and returned to our scooter. A grand adventure!</p><p>Bill </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br />Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7147393486014631294.post-63482105251696306592022-12-26T10:52:00.004-08:002022-12-26T10:52:59.721-08:00Via Casilina Vecchia: the "Funky" side of Rome<p>If you're searching for Rome's "funky" side, you can't do much better than a stretch of via Casilina Vecchia, running southeast off via Castrense, a street that connects the Tuscolano neighborhood with Pigneto. (We're not talking about via Casilina, a nasty street for walkers that runs parallel with "Vecchia" on the other side of some railroad tracks). </p><p>The first thing you'll see is the massive complex of Casa Santa Giacinta--a Catholic charity serving the poor and elderly</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUZAY7eIQsKg5s_ejgzfVDM3deIU_7cQaPy7qQv58LUyUR6CHwORLWXvJPZc6fAgmdR_MmdGFZjLiB9usMzypoBr555b0BYRWQSRSiJ9cqZDM94z9-OOX_VDQRrjZ-eJP5LYfWEh4biez4NlRm6xk0EcMviyHF35Y-ofIZG2gOE5F8PxVydBbKosn7w/s5472/DSC00419.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUZAY7eIQsKg5s_ejgzfVDM3deIU_7cQaPy7qQv58LUyUR6CHwORLWXvJPZc6fAgmdR_MmdGFZjLiB9usMzypoBr555b0BYRWQSRSiJ9cqZDM94z9-OOX_VDQRrjZ-eJP5LYfWEh4biez4NlRm6xk0EcMviyHF35Y-ofIZG2gOE5F8PxVydBbKosn7w/w400-h266/DSC00419.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>And next to it, tucked in a bit, a cute 20th-century chapel in something akin to mission style. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXujziuh378KpeSXGwoYIYoVS8HWyoJMhFgScea-LzzwJfYh-PgZbnGaIearo61fs9m-fJPZ7wwKbVE6PYQaTgEr2ujlwEQYxsn0nGLkISiiBclwT4JWwwFgnSzP0XfvIQqpqO5XYcr3nBwWPfNKwUWBuYl_wBejJzXAqZd8-DGniBfwRnl7vWiVxkGw/s5472/DSC00227.JPG" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXujziuh378KpeSXGwoYIYoVS8HWyoJMhFgScea-LzzwJfYh-PgZbnGaIearo61fs9m-fJPZ7wwKbVE6PYQaTgEr2ujlwEQYxsn0nGLkISiiBclwT4JWwwFgnSzP0XfvIQqpqO5XYcr3nBwWPfNKwUWBuYl_wBejJzXAqZd8-DGniBfwRnl7vWiVxkGw/w400-h266/DSC00227.JPG" width="400" /></a></p><p></p><p>Just beyond, as the street narrows, there is (or was just months ago), a mural by Alice, a prolific Rome street artist. Part of Alice's original work (she's known for painting young women) is visible behind the cars that are usually parked there, and part has been covered by graffiti "artists." A portion of her mural is visible upper right. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUn1uBR0LZtDKIMBeT6hK08UZ8-1ZcKWycix6U7KmH51QzfyQNdWz9qmEHdSSdw0k1vHBVpwu5jQlF6HMZohCs71Bvid4nECJJrj9rgLXGrKcDLhUlS-mdlGD2rMM4pgZV_JYBG8v13WxiudbZIYBb7xedzrsljMpvq5qcpxH1OlSzWM3x4JZqxgbPeA/s5472/DSC00412.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUn1uBR0LZtDKIMBeT6hK08UZ8-1ZcKWycix6U7KmH51QzfyQNdWz9qmEHdSSdw0k1vHBVpwu5jQlF6HMZohCs71Bvid4nECJJrj9rgLXGrKcDLhUlS-mdlGD2rMM4pgZV_JYBG8v13WxiudbZIYBb7xedzrsljMpvq5qcpxH1OlSzWM3x4JZqxgbPeA/w640-h426/DSC00412.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The lower left portion of this wall proved fertile territory for this "accidental art"/found art photographer, a portion of it (below) ending up as his business card.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRJiW6Z2rriwBnelV7suSRvjpYeVeWKNh7LxwRWLrzi9WFFalMKSvjuzIsy5O8X8ysx9zYbnT8wvPVXLBVF5Pe9SNxW5E9XHdkgER3DjCDFnFuShzA7RBhjrkgWmr95LQkyg_A-KGYoEj7EC2tPiTowgMlvBrayvib0N4sZCeR9LBLpkO5SEanwmAlw/s5472/DSC00232.3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRJiW6Z2rriwBnelV7suSRvjpYeVeWKNh7LxwRWLrzi9WFFalMKSvjuzIsy5O8X8ysx9zYbnT8wvPVXLBVF5Pe9SNxW5E9XHdkgER3DjCDFnFuShzA7RBhjrkgWmr95LQkyg_A-KGYoEj7EC2tPiTowgMlvBrayvib0N4sZCeR9LBLpkO5SEanwmAlw/s320/DSC00232.3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Following the road, you'll come upon an arch, usually highly decorated by the spray-paint crowd. Why it exists we have no idea. Here is Dianne, photographed with the arch, though from the other side. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UNZJSODddHaLLpAHCBoW8FBgG79ojt2l3f7owXYpBOaGc1UFC4OXrHKHGLDu4HH8_UKk-KWGzarNyVkkIW36VW-RPFd0g-1A9e-8m4lG7qKvPmzTX0MYvFD7qg__SEvey9EwVb2prDoaaOLbtl86rszF_ZHWgSfVpe5nhWR9LEnI2tQzOU0mYtseBA/s5472/DSC00268.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UNZJSODddHaLLpAHCBoW8FBgG79ojt2l3f7owXYpBOaGc1UFC4OXrHKHGLDu4HH8_UKk-KWGzarNyVkkIW36VW-RPFd0g-1A9e-8m4lG7qKvPmzTX0MYvFD7qg__SEvey9EwVb2prDoaaOLbtl86rszF_ZHWgSfVpe5nhWR9LEnI2tQzOU0mYtseBA/w640-h426/DSC00268.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Ahead, the centerpiece of the journey, the aqueduct Acqua Felice. It's not ancient. Dating to the late Renaissance, it was constructed under Pope Sixtus V. Still it's very cool, and here are there it utilizes the columns of Aqua Claudia (of ancient origin). "Felice" is over 28km long--and you can see it rise from ground level a few miles out at the Parco degli Aquedotti (Park of the Aqueducts). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSvbtf26p-cvBWRBX0kwj4p3O_4kCkTFz3O-V1DunrosPngzrkddHZdT2ly98li592kMqyFJbulfFbM3-9rfph7NOBv1eSCk7e20Q38txgUGNA6dE9Ch1Fh2Whh0A-8WrUlPJcpMyqc0OlH7Icw8jsplK6W5yCattMhOQIrJvUt8M0lfr45nolD_WRA/s5472/DSC00236.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSvbtf26p-cvBWRBX0kwj4p3O_4kCkTFz3O-V1DunrosPngzrkddHZdT2ly98li592kMqyFJbulfFbM3-9rfph7NOBv1eSCk7e20Q38txgUGNA6dE9Ch1Fh2Whh0A-8WrUlPJcpMyqc0OlH7Icw8jsplK6W5yCattMhOQIrJvUt8M0lfr45nolD_WRA/w640-h426/DSC00236.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>Just as the road looks like it's going to go through an aqueduct arch, it turns sharply left, crossing the tracks--just one lane, and quite a bit of traffic. Not the safest spot for a pedestrian. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HaDPVVKN59uFDErN1MCcdIs32GsZ8FJ1vx09IhYsw9ee37Y5qnFQ0y8W4ULisGpBYfoSAc_cSCkH2lujEuGhZluYEwh2wg7hIdVUENtCl7IoxdF6aGSDOA20SVPjryr6kdoUB6_WJmmaxGNBZ9tQpRa2kf4eYjhYxRs7VsziUbyB4KLGStG9z4RbQA/s5472/DSC09961.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HaDPVVKN59uFDErN1MCcdIs32GsZ8FJ1vx09IhYsw9ee37Y5qnFQ0y8W4ULisGpBYfoSAc_cSCkH2lujEuGhZluYEwh2wg7hIdVUENtCl7IoxdF6aGSDOA20SVPjryr6kdoUB6_WJmmaxGNBZ9tQpRa2kf4eYjhYxRs7VsziUbyB4KLGStG9z4RbQA/w400-h266/DSC09961.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Then the road turns again, runs through the aqueduct--and you'll find yourself walking on its western side. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwLs2L4mm3YA_ukUakgD5nfFNofG-n6jP9r5d83VKfxbNSjfj4UY50OFow23b1eXx0sOUlpN-XT0f14MtExM0rdwus3fkQ955xBiTQsur_bwXsyNZZ_dW6cORQCAfHugHJkHl6HN4_cyfoWiMb5W4DvVV7Q8TLmf1gVxKLZpMgKLtzVhYRuCZS8ImpA/s5472/DSC09965.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwLs2L4mm3YA_ukUakgD5nfFNofG-n6jP9r5d83VKfxbNSjfj4UY50OFow23b1eXx0sOUlpN-XT0f14MtExM0rdwus3fkQ955xBiTQsur_bwXsyNZZ_dW6cORQCAfHugHJkHl6HN4_cyfoWiMb5W4DvVV7Q8TLmf1gVxKLZpMgKLtzVhYRuCZS8ImpA/w640-h426/DSC09965.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Although most of the arches date to the late 16th century, a few--they will be obvious--were constructed at the turn of the last century to allow access for trains.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEF--MxZjFFvxFAs3XkKPbeiT4FUeIkHYc3lltr2i36rssKo9C4l5C4hZWzb9QAV0UPWWoMBxRh_AuOjIqCri34Q0tLgu3qrtxAKYe8wjdP2CsZdowM1KBR3TTKZgI26OhTCH6sYn1KUCHXcKvlPgqpwFG6F_YuGIG51oYLDAcwV76S6WSoJPswYnyw/s5472/DSC09967.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEF--MxZjFFvxFAs3XkKPbeiT4FUeIkHYc3lltr2i36rssKo9C4l5C4hZWzb9QAV0UPWWoMBxRh_AuOjIqCri34Q0tLgu3qrtxAKYe8wjdP2CsZdowM1KBR3TTKZgI26OhTCH6sYn1KUCHXcKvlPgqpwFG6F_YuGIG51oYLDAcwV76S6WSoJPswYnyw/s320/DSC09967.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Further along, you'll find homes on one side of the street, the aqueduct (and apparently some homes and businesses) on the other. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ygWvY2AF0ypWPjHqCYHUDxw0ib4Is6ROvZVkLRrtb-leFTJGj83ILh7pFASBBugCnfl2-wgias19Jt-NNn5MoarTsMrmrpxSgXiWjcmDKWOxmMkDlvlQKBF6IBVBgeFhu-PTASBl5rTse-udCsFsV2q4w12YACrY6jlRYYEaOXnWjgX-mwQEQzSiPw/s5472/DSC00249.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ygWvY2AF0ypWPjHqCYHUDxw0ib4Is6ROvZVkLRrtb-leFTJGj83ILh7pFASBBugCnfl2-wgias19Jt-NNn5MoarTsMrmrpxSgXiWjcmDKWOxmMkDlvlQKBF6IBVBgeFhu-PTASBl5rTse-udCsFsV2q4w12YACrY6jlRYYEaOXnWjgX-mwQEQzSiPw/s320/DSC00249.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>One of the businesses, located in and through an aqueduct arch, specializes in copies of statues and other ancient and Renaissance pieces:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnt55cZBqwqFK46qGwR7knmiOFHTsTvfzn2rweLZARWzVc8WxxOtGWjqjzub0MFJZYqWlVZQEoWi9BgdndW4LPg_zJBJZVp-_lnJpY8L3ibJtEeRTtiGwgF-WUdcm7udIZpLjfiIBCWfH1elWUpIHUoB1RSQ9tCmw6jjv9TGntsBcHdKy_cuj87LRC-A/s5472/DSC00245.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnt55cZBqwqFK46qGwR7knmiOFHTsTvfzn2rweLZARWzVc8WxxOtGWjqjzub0MFJZYqWlVZQEoWi9BgdndW4LPg_zJBJZVp-_lnJpY8L3ibJtEeRTtiGwgF-WUdcm7udIZpLjfiIBCWfH1elWUpIHUoB1RSQ9tCmw6jjv9TGntsBcHdKy_cuj87LRC-A/s320/DSC00245.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>This staircase seems to lead through the aqueduct to a home:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGRhenhduOCNiZoI9KJyTLbARKAKYESr73IPqRSYEPyG1Xmj9pcMdU8EWxqlwjfLwq00BryI6-qLAuGHClx4K9UwBQcW1JTisbXzd74eU7ddevKefQeehEpT0-JeI4nkX-WpuiYUns28Z9GxkCDAzPlBKxfIzf_PE2-d8BggPKq26w4B3JmmNsRcRmhw/s5472/DSC00246.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGRhenhduOCNiZoI9KJyTLbARKAKYESr73IPqRSYEPyG1Xmj9pcMdU8EWxqlwjfLwq00BryI6-qLAuGHClx4K9UwBQcW1JTisbXzd74eU7ddevKefQeehEpT0-JeI4nkX-WpuiYUns28Z9GxkCDAzPlBKxfIzf_PE2-d8BggPKq26w4B3JmmNsRcRmhw/s320/DSC00246.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Inside one of the arches, someone has created a devotional tableau:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTlyq---LpnOMck_XbWUggVpaYY-5XohbjgMyfbfhf1eGtFu8IbFXTuLjrDYkv1ItTqEVRcCRC7TK_6K4QQpxVNZsW1mG-r2omK62i7K_efzf7AjPlZ40FoHiA60r_p19AjGRG4xLE2ydqsDy8wIe--XaKRhCxHuB7ogwJBByLnZyEg1CKAQI1HxDNQ/s5472/DSC00253.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTlyq---LpnOMck_XbWUggVpaYY-5XohbjgMyfbfhf1eGtFu8IbFXTuLjrDYkv1ItTqEVRcCRC7TK_6K4QQpxVNZsW1mG-r2omK62i7K_efzf7AjPlZ40FoHiA60r_p19AjGRG4xLE2ydqsDy8wIe--XaKRhCxHuB7ogwJBByLnZyEg1CKAQI1HxDNQ/w426-h640/DSC00253.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>When via Casilina Vecchia dead ends, turn left, through the aqueduct, then immediately right onto via del Mandrione. Poet, novelist, and film director Pier Paolo Pasolini spent a lot of time in the Mandrione neighborhood, seeking the "real" Rome. [D: all signs of inhabitants where he once strolled are now gone. No doubt in the name of "slum clearance."]</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jvnR_epFGwt8zYS1GXf5oniX1Dx7hgG8u22X-ecGCTWaDHqjbzcntUj7Twwc5f9cOmYqM8Q_WxGCRQIGgi7DqIKfWJscbbCfkgAa8OaN607M3EEy6TEbjR8f9O4I9ifAoGfnaZLj1dNV2r7YTii0msAlweRjrGP7V4AFNnLwK56YDWMMTVtFGz2znA/s5472/DSC00250.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jvnR_epFGwt8zYS1GXf5oniX1Dx7hgG8u22X-ecGCTWaDHqjbzcntUj7Twwc5f9cOmYqM8Q_WxGCRQIGgi7DqIKfWJscbbCfkgAa8OaN607M3EEy6TEbjR8f9O4I9ifAoGfnaZLj1dNV2r7YTii0msAlweRjrGP7V4AFNnLwK56YDWMMTVtFGz2znA/w640-h426/DSC00250.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>About 200 yards ahead, there's a narrow passage-way off right. </p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZdOBH7C3SjvcTw3T2xBBIBg-mott2J4YSLlnUh-qYvw7rkk7QND422eB5t1iILYPDmpNTAHSU8fe9zkUGoNrrSxHfiMMm2dQ-0_gm0QAAG-aUZ1hBhbdhRBYCMelWh6tuo1U5PoQ3NOEkPyufA4oOOT4zmy4F7S3zuIxQHMRvjLSfUMocaX4MX05fQ/s5472/DSC00255.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZdOBH7C3SjvcTw3T2xBBIBg-mott2J4YSLlnUh-qYvw7rkk7QND422eB5t1iILYPDmpNTAHSU8fe9zkUGoNrrSxHfiMMm2dQ-0_gm0QAAG-aUZ1hBhbdhRBYCMelWh6tuo1U5PoQ3NOEkPyufA4oOOT4zmy4F7S3zuIxQHMRvjLSfUMocaX4MX05fQ/s320/DSC00255.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br />Turning left out of the pass way, a few yards down you'll find another lane off to the right, leading to a staircase--and beneath it, the Tuscolano 'hood. Turn right at the first street and work your way back to Piazza Lodi--and through the wall to via Castrense, and your starting point. <p></p><p>Another side of Rome. Sweet!</p><p>Bill </p><p> </p>Dianne Bennett and William Graebnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00020113718051468497noreply@blogger.com0