|Right, our apartment building on the Via Simeto side.|
Our place is on the 4th floor above the ground
floor--the one with the "cutout" that is our
terrace. No market when this was taken.
But we're not in Parioli--at least we don't think so. More likely we're in one of Rome's lesser known districts: Salario. Our 4th floor apartment is on the corner of Via Salaria--one of ancient Rome's consular roads--and Via Simeto, which is two blocks south of Viale Regina Margherita, the main drag with trams that go all over Rome. We think Parioli "officially" begins on the other side of Via Salaria.
No, we're not in Parioli. But what we've found--by sheer good fortune--is one of Rome's most
dynamic neighborhoods. Curiously, we had lived nearby a few years ago--just to the north of Viale Regina Margherita, in what's known as Trieste. But we almost never ventured across the Viale. What a mistake!
|Our building is of early 20th-century vintage, but|
beneath it are catacombs! We discovered they are open
one day each year - November 23.
|Our "Tigre" grocrery, located in what used to be a movie|
theatre (note the U-shaped lettering of the theater). While
a chain, the Tigre has an informal book-exchange in
a room off the entrance.
There's a nice wine shop just across Via Salaria--but of course you can buy wine almost anywhere, including at the medium-sized chain grocery store that you can see from our living room window (right). The 4-star Beverly Hills Hotel (no joke!) is across the street.
The high-end shopping is on Via Po, two blocks down: men's clothes shops that drew the attention of a friend who's lived in Rome for years; a shop that sells only olive oil; a salumeria (a cheese/salami/bread store). As that friend - who's lived in Rome 30 years - said when he met us for dinner nearby, "How did you find this place?"
|Hugs at the market|
|Dianne with her home-made vignarola|
Eating out? There must be a dozen restaurants within a 10-minute walk--maybe more. On our block alone there are three, all traditional trattorias serving Rome cuisine; we've tried two and they were both worthy, highlighted by a pasta with seafood and truffles.
|Kilo, red meat capital of Rome. Dianne on the prowl.|
|Hip outside cushion seating at "dietro le quinte"|
After checking out a dozen "bars" for our morning coffee and cornetto, we finally settled on a somewhat upscale place on Via Po--where you can sit down and read the paper without paying extra. Indeed, the trend here in Salario--and Salario could be trend-setting--is toward larger places with ample seating at no extra charge. Dogs get in free.
|An entrance to Coppede'|
A tram got us to Prati (near the Vatican) in about 30 minutes for some jazz at Alexanderplatz the other night, and in the other direction (east), a tram will take you to the university, to the hip young scene at San Lorenzo, and just beyond to Porta Maggiore, with its enormous aqueducts, a short walk from another hip scene in Pigneto.
Life could be worse!
|Could have been and would have been our|
regular coffee bar, but they overcharged us--twice--because they
thought the Americans wouldn't be back or wouldn't notice. Big mistake.
It's on Via Salaria if you don't want to go there.