|The bustling front dining room at Betto e Mary; not sure about the stuffed animal cow and her scarf. Perhaps someone|
will come forth with an explanation. And the server? She's the talking menu.
|In a covered outside dining area at Betto e Mary - where you|
are likely to sit without a reservation (and it's very pleasant).
For those in search of a non-tourist experience, you can't do better than Betto e Mary. I can't recall how we came to know about it, because you won't find it easily. It does have many (high) ratings on Yelp and TripAdvisor (the latter spells the name incorrectly) which I checked after we'd been there a couple times. And I only found out from reading an article in Men's Journal that it's considered a "communist" restaurant (that means apparently only that it's for locals, not businessmen).
|Our 26 Euro bill at Betto e Mary was so low,|
we took a photo of it. And when we paid it,
someone rang a bell and shouted
"Mancia! mancia!" (tip! tip!)
You probably need a bit of Italian to get by, or be willing to take your chances on, e.g., horsemeat, innards. The available dishes are described to you by your server; that's it. You can take a look at the (Italian) Facebook page for photos of some of the offerings. To get to the restaurant, take the #1 tram from the side of Termini or from Porta Maggiore to either the Filarete or Tor Pignattara stop and follow a map or gps from there - it's only a couple blocks. DON'T follow the Men's Journal advice to take the Metro to Villa Medici and ask! And, although not far from Pigneto, Betto e Mary is not really in Pigneto. Address: Via dei Savorgnan, 99, 00176 Rome; tel. 0664771096. I also don't think the open and closing hours are accurate in Men's Journal.
|Early in the evening at Lo Sgobbone, before it filled up.|
|The outside tables are popular at Lo Sgobbone.|
|The awning, Dianne's objection, looks better at night.|
Third, Tutto Qua!, in the Monteverde Vecchio neighborhood. This is tinier than the two trattorie above, and more upscale in cuisine and price, but still reasonable. It's not your classic Italian trattoria, in other words, but it usually has several classics on the menu. I love the atmosphere, the creative menu, and the presentation. The wine list is also good, especially for such a small spot. You can see more photos on Tutto Qua!'s (Italian) Web site and Facebook. It's much praised on TripAdvisor (Yelp hasn't discovered it yet). One drawback: you usually need a reservation. Our phone number was taken down incorrectly and when the owner couldn't reach us the day before, he cancelled our reservation. So be careful when you reserve a table. A few outside tables in season, as well (also subject to reservations). Via Barrilli 66 (via Barrilli turns into via Carini), not far from Il Vascello Theater. tel: 06 580 3649.
|Outside, looking in, at Tutto Qua! in Monteverde Vecchio.|
And now it's time for some Buffalo wings (when in Buffalo we live 3 blocks from where they were first concocted - Frank and Teresa's Anchor Bar).