|A Courtyard in one of Trionfale's Fascist-Era Public Housing Projects|
Rome the Second Time is partly a book about Rome's suburbs. But that doesn't mean we're sending you to Rome's equivalent of Westchester. Our Rome suburbs are outside the Center, to be sure, so they weren't built in the Renaissance. But they are close to the Center, and they feel like Rome: today's Rome, and the Rome of the 20th century.
Some time ago we spent the afternoon in the Rome suburb of Trionfale (Triumphant/Triumphal, the name apparently derived from the city's historic attraction to triumphal arches). Romans would refer to the area as Trionfale or Quartiere Trionfale. It's in Prati.
We can't give you a precise geographical definition for Trionfale. But the center of the quartiere is just to the east of Piazzale degli Eroi ("Large Piazza of the Heroes" - a pretty awful traffic circle, says Dianne), along and a few blocks north and south of via Andrea Doria, which runs into the piazza.
If you're staying near the Vatican, you're in luck, because Trionfale begins just a few blocks north of the north wall of the Vatican. If you're taking the subway, get off at Cipro Musei Vaticani and walk north to Piazza degli Eroi.
|Casa Impiegati del Governatorato|
|The new Trionfale Market--or the Hyatt?|